Turning my first nose cone

[cwbullet]

Very nice. I have never done this, but have always wanted to learn. Thanks for the inspiration.

 

[qquake2k]

Looking good

Thank you!

 

[qquake2k]

I'm pretty happy with the shape. It may not be perfect, but I think it'll look good regardless. Haven't decided what to do about the tip yet. The original X-Ray nose cone had a sharp tip. With the live center I'm using, I can't get the tip sharp, or even slightly rounded. I'll have to pull the live center back to finish the tip. When I do that, it's been my experience that the piece will wobble. So I won't be able to use a chisel, it'll be sandpaper only. It would be relatively easy to round the tip. But if I sharpen it, it's going to reduce the length of the nose cone. It's already shorter than scale, and if I sharpen it it'll be even shorter.

I'm toying with the idea of drilling a big hole in the tip, and gluing in a piece of balsa dowel. That will allow me to form a sharp tip without shortening it. I also need to remove the nose cone from the face plate to check the shoulder fit in the clear tubing.

 

[qquake2k]

Very nice. I have never done this, but have always wanted to learn. Thanks for the inspiration.

If I can do this, you can!

 

[GDJ]

I'm toying with the idea of drilling a big hole in the tip, and gluing in a piece of balsa dowel. That will allow me to form a sharp tip without shortening it. I also need to remove the nose cone from the face plate to check the shoulder fit in the clear tubing.

I was thinking the same thing, but use a piece of hardwood dowel. It will be tougher to sand, but it will retain a sharp point better and most likely be a little more durable.

Great job! Nose cone looks great!

 

[Gary Byrum]

I'm pretty happy with the shape. It may not be perfect, but I think it'll look good regardless. Haven't decided what to do about the tip yet.

This mock drawing may help you in a future turning. My rule of thumb is to have at least 3" longer length of wood than I need. 4" is ideal. When I take down the wood at the tip, I carve beyond the tip leaving about 1/2" of wood 1/4" thick (or there about) allowing me to cut the cone loose from it's ends and shape the tip to a point. You actually have more wood left to make the desired tip you are looking for.

 

[sandman]

I really like that 3M Sandblaster sandpaper. It's amazing stuff!

They are expensive but I highly advise you to invest in a good dust collector.

Sure helps keep the dust under control.

 

[qquake2k]

I was thinking the same thing, but use a piece of hardwood dowel. It will be tougher to sand, but it will retain a sharp point better and most likely be a little more durable.

Great job! Nose cone looks great!

I had thought about using hardwood dowel, but didn't think it would work. It would give me a tougher tip, but I just don't think I'd be able to shape it without damaging the softer balsa behind it.

 

[qquake2k]

This mock drawing may help you in a future turning. My rule of thumb is to have at least 3" longer length of wood than I need. 4" is ideal. When I take down the wood at the tip, I carve beyond the tip leaving about 1/2" of wood 1/4" thick (or there about) allowing me to cut the cone loose from it's ends and shape the tip to a point. You actually have more wood left to make the desired tip you are looking for.

Yeah, I wish the blank had been longer, but I was using what I had. The blocks are 2x4x12.

 

[qquake2k]

They are expensive but I highly advise you to invest in a good dust collector.

Sure helps keep the dust under control.

At one time, I had a really nice dust collector. But I didn't have room for it in my garage, and it was cumbersome to use. I just use my Shop Vac now if I need to. I really don't turn very much.

 

[qquake2k]

I had a 1-1/2" square balsa stick, so I decided to turn a dowel from it. I cut off a 2-1/2" long piece and attached it to a screw chuck. I flooded the hole with CA do the screw in the chuck wouldn't tear out. This balsa is much softer than what I used for the nose cone.

 

[qquake2k]

It tore more than cut, but I finally got it down to 5/8" diameter.

 

[qquake2k]

I used a 5/8" Forstner bit to drill the tip of the nose cone.

 

[qquake2k]

I glued the balsa dowel into the nose cone with wood glue. I'm fairly confident I'll be able to shape the tip sharp with sandpaper without too much trouble. Everything was going along fine. I was happy with the shape and feeling good about my success. But then...

 

[qquake2k]

I got the shoulder sanded to fit inside the clear tubing. Apparently somewhere along the line, I sanded the diameter of the nose cone too small. Yeah, I muttered a few choice words. I measured it several times with a caliper, not sure where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of at this point is to build up the diameter with putty and sand it smooth. I'm open to suggestions.

 

[GDJ]

I got the shoulder sanded to fit inside the clear tubing. Apparently somewhere along the line, I sanded the diameter of the nose cone too small. Yeah, I muttered a few choice words. I measured it several times with a caliper, not sure where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of at this point is to build up the diameter with putty and sand it smooth. I'm open to suggestions.

Okay, what about office paper soaked with CA then sanding that down after it's dry on the lathe?

 

[bradycros]

I got the shoulder sanded to fit inside the clear tubing. Apparently somewhere along the line, I sanded the diameter of the nose cone too small. Yeah, I muttered a few choice words. I measured it several times with a caliper, not sure where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of at this point is to build up the diameter with putty and sand it smooth. I'm open to suggestions.

You don't need to 'fix' it. You need to 'add' a piece to fool the eye.

 

[qquake2k]

You don't need to 'fix' it. You need to 'add' a piece to fool the eye.

What do you mean?

 

[bradycros]

What do you mean?

Texture.

Instead of having a smooth nose cone surface all the way to the clear tube, add a thin strip (ring) of card stock approx. 3/16 or 1/4 in. above the base of the nose cone.

It will break up the transition of the cone to the clear tube. Although the lip from the cone to the clear tube will still be there, the strip (ring) will fool the eye and the lip will appear to 'belong' there.

Adding a strip (rings) below the BT transition and above the fins will enhance this look.

See my Sizzler thread for visual aid.

 

[sandman]

I got the shoulder sanded to fit inside the clear tubing. Apparently somewhere along the line, I sanded the diameter of the nose cone too small. Yeah, I muttered a few choice words. I measured it several times with a caliper, not sure where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of at this point is to build up the diameter with putty and sand it smooth. I'm open to suggestions.

Gee, that never happens to me...:eyeroll:

Much!

I cheat, toss it in my oops box, since it's 3" in diameter I use it to make a BT-80 nose cone or tail cone, grab a new block of wood and start all over.

But that's me.

My last balsa order was a little over $600.00 worth or wood so I have extra.:blush:

 

[Gary Byrum]

I got the shoulder sanded to fit inside the clear tubing. Apparently somewhere along the line, I sanded the diameter of the nose cone too small. Yeah, I muttered a few choice words. I measured it several times with a caliper, not sure where I went wrong. The only thing I can think of at this point is to build up the diameter with putty and sand it smooth. I'm open to suggestions.

Calipers don't always cut it. One might think they should but they aren't all that you can expect them to be. I know this doesn't compute but it's my reality. They are only a close reference. I usually go with slightly larger (than what the calipers say) because it's easier to trim than it is to build up. Balsa is tricky and it's way too easy to sand away too much. If I had a nickle..........................

 

[bradycros]

The joint is still there, but in this picture you can see how the strip distracts the eye from the joint between the top of the BT and the bottom of the nose cone.

 

[bradycros]

Cool, eh!

 

[qquake2k]

The joint is still there, but in this picture you can see how the strip distracts the eye from the joint between the top of the BT and the bottom of the nose cone.

Oh, okay, I see what you mean now. Very good idea. But in this case, since it's an upscale, I don't think that would work. I'm going to try building it up with putty, I just haven't decided which kind.

 

[qquake2k]

Gee, that never happens to me...:eyeroll:

Much!

I cheat, toss it in my oops box, since it's 3" in diameter I use it to make a BT-80 nose cone or tail cone, grab a new block of wood and start all over.

But that's me.

My last balsa order was a little over $600.00 worth or wood so I have extra.:blush:

I'm glad I'm not the only one!

 

[bradycros]

Oh, okay, I see what you mean now. Very good idea. But in this case, since it's an upscale, I don't think that would work. I'm going to try building it up with putty, I just haven't decided which kind.

I don't know why you'd think that, the Sizzler is an upscale and it works just fine.

Doing what you think is needed is what matters.

 

[qquake2k]

I don't know why you'd think that, the Sizzler is an upscale and it works just fine.

Doing what you think is needed is what matters.

I'm afraid it would distract from the overall look, since I want it to look like an original X-Ray.

 

[bradycros]

I'm afraid it would distract from the overall look, since I want it to look like an original X-Ray.

With the 'rings', not only will it still look like an original X-Ray, it will look the way the X-Ray should look with upgrades!

Everything that's cool gets the cool factor upgraded, always.

Sometimes ya just gotta push them boundries a bit further.

 

[qquake2k]

I cut the last balsa block I had in half to use for the transition. I had some trouble clamping the pieces together, they kept sliding apart when I'd tighten a clamp. So I put them in the vise first, then added the clamps. Tha seemed to work.

Sure is purty wood, almost seems a shame to cover it up with paint.

 

[UfO]

Nice work! This makes me want a lathe. I just freehanded a balsa nosecone. Lets hope it flies true. Lol