Turning my first nose cone

[qquake2k]

I started a discussion in the Watering Hole about my next project, an upscale original Estes X-Ray. The clear payload section will be 3" OD and 2-7/8" ID. My friend Bill had sent me some nice Balsa blocks, and he and Bradycros talked me into trying to turn my own nose cone. I'm still not sure about the outcome, but I jumped in with both feet.

The blocks are 2x4x12, so I laminated two together with wood glue, and attached a 3" lathe face plate to one end.

 

[qquake2k]

I trimmed the corners off with the bandsaw, so there would be less material to remove on the lathe. I also used a cup style live center, so it wouldn't dig in too far during the turning.

 

[qquake2k]

I haven't turned anything bigger than a pen in a long, long time. I still don't know if I have the skills for it. I tried several different chisels, but found that an old roughing chisel I have (that I made the handle for) gave me the best results.

 

[qquake2k]

I noticed a vibration when the lathe was spinning, so I put a 1" flat washer behind the face plate. Seemed to help a little.

[YOUTUBE]KTZgYAbp_08[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]6uEWgR3hxCM[/YOUTUBE]

 

[qquake2k]

This is new territory for me, so I'm experimenting as I go. Trying to figure out what works and what doesn't. I think getting to the final shape will be a slow process.

 

[sandman]

Try to keep your turning tools very very sharp. That is very important for a clean cut.

For finish shaping, make some sanding blocks out of 40, 60 80 and 100 grit sand paper.

DO NOT use a strip of sand paper by hand and partially wrapped around the wood as it's turning. Balsa can be an uneven density and wrapping sandpaper partially around the piece will cause it to sand more on the softer parts and less on the denser parts, making it uneven or oval.

Take your time...you're in no hurry.

 

[chadrog]

Try to keep your turning tools very very sharp. That is very important for a clean cut.

For finish shaping, make some sanding blocks out of 40, 60 80 and 100 grit sand paper.

DO NOT use a strip of sand paper by hand and partially wrapped around the wood as it's turning. Balsa can be an uneven density and wrapping sandpaper partially around the piece will cause it to sand more on the softer parts and less on the denser parts, making it uneven or oval.

Take your time...you're in no hurry.

And it also might catch and tear up your fingers.

 

[qquake2k]

Try to keep your turning tools very very sharp. That is very important for a clean cut.

For finish shaping, make some sanding blocks out of 40, 60 80 and 100 grit sand paper.

DO NOT use a strip of sand paper by hand and partially wrapped around the wood as it's turning. Balsa can be an uneven density and wrapping sandpaper partially around the piece will cause it to sand more on the softer parts and less on the denser parts, making it uneven or oval.

Take your time...you're in no hurry.

Very good advice. Thank you.

 

[qquake2k]

And it also might catch and tear up your fingers.

I already sand my fingers enough with the belt sander.

 

[SacEsq]

Looks good ... cannot wait for flying season again to see all the new projects, yours and mine, fly.

 

[qquake2k]

Looks good ... cannot wait for flying season again to see all the new projects, yours and mine, fly.

I hear that! I'm really hoping we get some rain so there'll be an October launch.

 

[bradycros]

You'll probly be suprised to find 80 grit sand paper on a sanding block will leave a fairly smooth surface on the cone, I was.

I don't know if your checking measurements on the cone with calipers or using a template after the shape is roughed in. Check the shape often and sand the final shape in slowly.

You've got everything looking good so far.

 

[bill2654]

Looks good so far Jim. Hope it works out for you!

 

[qquake2k]

You'll probly be suprised to find 80 grit sand paper on a sanding block will leave a fairly smooth surface on the cone, I was.

I don't know if your checking measurements on the cone with calipers or using a template after the shape is roughed in. Check the shape often and sand the final shape in slowly.

You've got everything looking good so far.

In penmaking, they call that a "sandpaper skew". I have a feeling I'll be able to do a lot of the shaping with it.

 

[sandman]

If you have an original nose cone say from SEMROC you can stand back, close one eye and move the original cone forward and back until the view of the cone on the lathe and the original in your hand match up. You can then see where you have to adjust the shape.

Did I say that right??? Does that make sense?:blush:

Now when the cone is all finished I will take a piece of 400 grit sandpaper and lightly sand it on the lathe for a real nice finish...but do it lightly...not much is needed.

 

[qquake2k]

If you have an original nose cone say from SEMROC you can stand back, close one eye and move the original cone forward and back until the view of the cone on the lathe and the original in your hand match up. You can then see where you have to adjust the shape.

Did I say that right??? Does that make sense?:blush:

That makes total sense. Thanks!

 

[qquake2k]

Looks good so far Jim. Hope it works out for you!

Thanks Bill, and thanks for the balsa!

 

[sandman]

Good!

Sometimes when I type it doesn't come out exactly the way I think.

Also if you have a drawing scaled a bit larger than the cone you can get that same effect by holding the drawing behind the part on the lathe.

I use original cone I purchase off Ebay. I have a rather large inventory of originals I use to get the shape correct.

I'm not trying to get out of making anyone a nose cone. But if you want to make your own GREAT. I have plenty of work to keep me busy.:wink:

 

[qquake2k]

Good!

Sometimes when I type it doesn't come out exactly the way I think.

Also if you have a drawing scaled a bit larger than the cone you can get that same effect by holding the drawing behind the part on the lathe.

I use original cone I purchase off Ebay. I have a rather large inventory of originals I use to get the shape correct.

I'm not trying to get out of making anyone a nose cone. But if you want to make your own GREAT. I have plenty of work to keep me busy.:wink:

So you turn nose cones by hand? I always thought you used a CNC machine of some sort.

 

[chadrog]

So you turn nose cones by hand? I always thought you used a CNC machine of some sort.

Which makes a 7 1/2" Goblin cone that much more impressive! I sure would like to see it. Gordy made me a 4" Goblin cone, I thought that was big! I think Gordy is one of the few true craftsman left, we are very lucky to have him involved with us.

 

[sandman]

LOL! Not according to a few individuals I have quoted.

I once made a quote for six large nose cones, tail cone parts for a shuttle (two for each booster and the external tank) and I was told by an individual that he was sure he could purchase a CNC machine and make it himself cheaper.

The quote was about $200.00

I really want to see a CNC setup for under $200.00:lol:

Would that CNC machine include, software, cutting tools or even a router, oh, and wood???

No, I'm not cheap but I'm not unreasonable.

 

[chadrog]

LOL! Not according to a few individuals I have quoted.

I once made a quote for six large nose cones, tail cone parts for a shuttle (two for each booster and the external tank) and I was told by an individual that he was sure he could purchase a CNC machine and make it himself cheaper.

The quote was about $200.00

I really want to see a CNC setup for under $200.00:lol:

Would that CNC machine include, software, cutting tools or even a router, oh, and wood???

No, I'm not cheap but I'm not unreasonable.

They would probably have complained if you'd quoted them $20.00...

 

[luke strawwalker]

LOL! Not according to a few individuals I have quoted.

I once made a quote for six large nose cones, tail cone parts for a shuttle (two for each booster and the external tank) and I was told by an individual that he was sure he could purchase a CNC machine and make it himself cheaper.

The quote was about $200.00

I really want to see a CNC setup for under $200.00:lol:

Would that CNC machine include, software, cutting tools or even a router, oh, and wood???

No, I'm not cheap but I'm not unreasonable.

Yep, I've seen your work and it's TOP NOTCH! People often don't realize or undervalue the TIME it takes to do such projects, as well as the equipment investment and the SKILL involved to get it right without screwing up a few times! Those things ARE worth money and that figures into the costs involved and the "final driveout price". Materials aren't cheap either, to say NOTHING of tooling!

I do a lot of my own too, but one has to realize what he's trying to get and what the limitations are. If you want perfection, Gordy produces absolutely top-notch flawless stuff, but it does come with a cost, which is only right! If you want it done CHEAP, one can do it themselves, but there are going to be limitations on how well the final product turns out... either from equipment, lack of experience or skill (learning curve), TIME to do the job, etc... and those limitations have to be factored in as well as to the final "cost" of the part...

NASA tried "better, faster, cheaper" a couple decades ago and guess what?? They found out when you shoot for "Better, Faster, Cheaper" you can only "PICK TWO! You can't have all three!"

Later! OL JR

 

[Gary Byrum]

I noticed a vibration when the lathe was spinning, so I put a 1" flat washer behind the face plate. Seemed to help a little.

Balsa is much softer than the woods you are used to using. Part of prepping my blocks is gluing hard dense cardboard to either end so the spindle or the chuck don't tear up the wood. Your chuck mount is way better than what I use so you shouldn't have any problems there. The spindle side is what seemed to be wobbling and that hard cardboard would have worked nicely to keep it stable. Glad you were able to fix that. Lookin good so far dood.

 

[qquake2k]

Balsa is much softer than the woods you are used to using. Part of prepping my blocks is gluing hard dense cardboard to either end so the spindle or the chuck don't tear up the wood. Your chuck mount is way better than what I use so you shouldn't have any problems there. The spindle side is what seemed to be wobbling and that hard cardboard would have worked nicely to keep it stable. Glad you were able to fix that. Lookin good so far dood.

I think the problem in my case is my homemade sanding disc. It's faced with rubber, and that's what the end of the face plate was screwed against.

 

[bradycros]

After the balsa was loaded onto the lathe and there were tool marks made in the ends, the balsa was removed. I saturated both the end/centers of the balsa block with thin CA. After drying, the block was placed back on the lathe.

No more drifting centers.

 

[o1d_dude]

I think both bradycros and Gary B on to something here with stabilizing the ends of the soft wood blank.

Somewhere back in the dark recesses of my mind...free flight modelers used to turn prop spinners out of balsa. IIRC they would glue a small piece of plywood to each end of the balsa blank, turn to shape, and then cut the plywood away. The final profile was achieved by handing sanding.

Might work here, too.

 

[qquake2k]

It's coming along. Still trying different chisels to see what works, and using 80 grit sandpaper. I also used Sandman's tip of holding a ready made nose cone in my line of vision to compare the shape.

 

[rocketgeek101]

Looking good

 

[qquake2k]

I really like that 3M Sandblaster sandpaper. It's amazing stuff!