And that is exactly why my point stands.It was dangerous
And that is exactly why my point stands.It was dangerous
Holy .... how do you even do that? It's not that hard to keep ignitors out of your motors in the hotel room...Talk about a rookie mistake - setting your hotel on fire.....
How the F do you manage to do this?
This takes work!
NAR President Speaks
Sorry that happened. I agree a rocket should be inspected each flight thoroughly.I had the epoxy joint fail on a Hawk Mountain Transonic II at the bulkhead on the aft section of the altimeter bay. The epoxy was placed there by the kit manufacturer 15 years ago. Now I check the joints for any rocket that’s more than ten years old.
That would be an interesting research topic. It would be a challenge to get consistent enough shavings to give repeatable results. My operating theory is that the shavings get blown into the hole and delay ignition of the delay in the drilled hole.
Our TARC team found that shavings tended to increase delay time, but that may not be universally applicable.Yes, good R&D topic.
Thinking more that the shavings would flare up / burn on all sides ( faster ) providing more pressure and therefor faster burn of the delay grain......
Thanks! But it wasn't a problem. I saw the joint before the rocket flew and repaired it. No fuss, no muss!Sorry that happened. I agree a rocket should be inspected each flight thoroughly.
Thank you.
Think I'm gonna rig mine at my chute quicklink, saw that on a video and liked it the best out of what I've seen a few use. But Apogee recommends you keep it as close to the BT as possible. This will be in my notes for sure. Thanks for the heads up..Is there a post for rookie HPR mistakes? If there is could the mod move this? If not... I'll go first
When you don't secure the parachute protector to keep it from sliding up the shock cord...
it slides up the shock cord. Luckily I sewed a loop in the shock cord for the parachute so it stopped there rather than continue up the shroud lines. I have a sequence of photos that shows the protector moving along the cord. The angle on this shot doesn't show it very well but the nosecone was swung out as far as the booster. It came down like a sick helicopter. No rocket damage though. Luck counts...
Very good idea!I write "JLCR?" on the tape I use to attach the igniter to the nosecone.
I have some extra time and my launch area for these is a 6 hour drive. I'm definitely preparing! I was getting too in depth and steeped back a little. I got back into this in May this year and haven't launched since 2012. So I got that launch fever wanting after buying a Alpha 3 kit at HL, then 3 weks later im getting ready to build a L1 rocket with supplies I got from Rocketryworks. Figure I might as well make it cool to me, right? Anyways got another or that 2012 collection back in June. And have a few more options now, I took some advice and kind of thought tok I might as well take this summer and fly. Joined the NAR and 2 clubs. My third club launch got to see a L2 cert flight on a K360. I'm hooked, that's the reason for the DD stuff. It definitely seemed to help practicing with smaller inexpensive rockets first....Its been an interesting year Ill leave it at that! But thinking now I want my Aerotech G-Force 38 or 54mm and DD. But might use my Mega for the L1 I haven't decided. I gave myself a year(Summer 2024) to get that L1 and I'm on track and having fun too. I definitely want more than L1 now. I was lucky enough to have James @ Rocketryworks make me some parts for the Mercury Engineering Integrator I bought a while ago. That will probably be my L1 cert rocket, low and slow.I think you get the "Most Over Prepped for L1" award! Good job.
Failure to put the parachute in the rocket. I have seen it a lot and have never done it myself. It isn't very comfortable when they go through the RSO table and answer yes to putting the parachute inside.
don't think so. It might be worth a build thread.Makes me think about how I might mount the chute on the outside of the rocket. Is there a rule about that? ;-)
don't think so. It might be worth a build thread.
To throw another idea out that's related (hopefully not straying too far from the topic): using fairings for chute protection and deployment. I had an idea with one of my printed rockets. I couldn't launch this one because it's PLA, but I loved the concept. I basically had 3 petal like fairings attached to the cord and mounted with inner tubes to channels from the ejection charge. I think it would work better on a larger scale with more heat resistant materials, but I haven't tried it since I made this concept rocket.don't think so. It might be worth a build thread.
While it seems obvious, it's easy to overlook if you're still new to composite motors. I didn't know you're supposed to keep it out until you get to the pad when I did one of my first public midpower launches until the RSO table mentioned it. I typically twist the igniter ends together so there is no unequal charge to cause a spark and maybe that's enough, but it's definitely better to not insert it at all.Holy .... how do you even do that? It's not that hard to keep ignitors out of your motors in the hotel room...
I only pre flight insert an igniter would be up to D impulse as in low power. I do not pre insert the igniter from F impulse on up until the rocket is aimed up on the pad or in a designated prep area always keeping the rocket pointed away from everyone. I tape them on the side.While it seems obvious, it's easy to overlook if you're still new to composite motors. I didn't know you're supposed to keep it out until you get to the pad when I did one of my first public midpower launches until the RSO table mentioned it. I typically twist the igniter ends together so there is no unequal charge to cause a spark and maybe that's enough, but it's definitely better to not insert it at all.
Only issue I have experienced with having the chute attachment close to the body tube, was when my ejection charge failed to completly deploy all the laundry. The nose cone and about 5' out of the airframe. The shockcord was out but the chute was further in and did not deploy. Total loss.Think I'm gonna rig mine at my chute quicklink, saw that on a video and liked it the best out of what I've seen a few use. But Apogee recommends you keep it as close to the BT as possible. This will be in my notes for sure. Thanks for the heads up..
I've been to 2 different clubs. While one is low power and frowns upon you having them in the rocket until you get there, the other is high power and I agree to wait. I agree with High power you shouldn't have the igniter in until the pad, but see many guys that rig F/G and smaller engines up then go directly to the pad at the other club. If you treat a rocket with a F or G motor like a loaded weapon once the igniter is in for F/G, why is it frowned upon? If anything it could off as you hook up the leads.. So for low up to F/G I do them before, and keep my fingers back while hooking them up. But high will be at the pad. It would very hard for me and my disability to do it at the pad for every low power rocket.I only pre flight insert an igniter would be up to D impulse as in low power. I do not pre insert the igniter from F impulse on up until the rocket is aimed up on the pad or in a designated prep area always keeping the rocket pointed away from everyone. I tape them on the side.
Or gluing your fingers to each other...Gluing your fingers to the rocket with CA.
I feel like we could have a whole thread of adhesive mistakes lol. Gluing fins backwards from what was instructed in the kit (not in HPR for me yet... but maybe it will happen sooner than later), not noticing glue that dripped onto your nice floor (or just not gluing in a cleared space with something under it), and not mixing epoxy completely (it doesn't cure all the way and you get a stretchy kinda adhesion instead of the hardened material you'd expect). Another thing I try to do is avoid having any couplers/shoulders inserted while gluing so if it gets messy I don't accidentally make my rocket all one piece. This is more important for my 3d printed rockets because I have limits to how tall I can make body tubes and I like filling the seams with something to smooth them out- I tend to use a little bit of cheap epoxy (I have some quick curing bondo I'm trying to use up) to fill the cracks and that can bleed/drip if I put it on thick.Or gluing your fingers to each other...
This is a expert mistake too.Gluing your fingers to the rocket with CA.
I have never had a club prohibit installation of the igniter in advanceI've been to 2 different clubs. While one is low power and frowns upon you having them in the rocket until you get there, the other is high power and I agree to wait. I agree with High power you shouldn't have the igniter in until the pad, but see many guys that rig F/G and smaller engines up then go directly to the pad at the other club. If you treat a rocket with a F or G motor like a loaded weapon once the igniter is in for F/G, why is it frowned upon? If anything it could off as you hook up the leads.. So for low up to F/G I do them before, and keep my fingers back while hooking them up. But high will be at the pad. It would very hard for me and my disability to do it at the pad for every low power rocket.
I agree.I have never had a club prohibit installation of the igniter in advance
on a low power (Thru D impulse) rocket.
Personally I wait until on the pad in a vertical direction before inserting the igniter on anything above D impulse.
The Estes igniters are high current demand and don't fire easily, usually requiring a launch system with fresh batteries. Some igniters are very low current demand and can ignite easily perhaps with only static electricity. Most prudent is to leave bare ends twisted together until attaching to leads.
Always strike the system leads together looking for sparks (bad) before attaching to igniter.
I tape the igniter to the outside of the rocket carring it out to the pad.
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