Pdr K-21

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Thanks, Andy!

More work done. Here are the capsule and adapter section.
Drew
 
And the whole thing. I adjusted the color on the wraps for the aluminum areas, taking most of the color out, and printed them on clear decal paper. I'm letting them dry overnight and will see how it looks tomorrow.

Drew
 
VERY nice :D

That looks great :D


I wish my rockets came out that nicely :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by Planet Andy
Drew
I remember when Route 9 was 2 lanes and also most of my senior year at RCK. [Clarification edit]Hopewell Junction is referred to as"Hopeless Jungle" yet houses there are in the 500K range cause it's close to the Taconic and 70 miles from NYC. It used to be nice and woodsy.
Andy

It was called hopeless Junction when I was there, I went to John Jay and on the way home we always stopped for a spin down Martin Rd, Just after the bridge heading out on Rt52. They cleaned up all the dumped applicances and motor blocks put a paved road straight and built houses there. I loved that road!!!

Mark
 
Originally posted by micrometer
Andy, speaking of keggers, I will never forget my senior year, coming back to school right after Memorial Day weekend...on the bus, pulling into the RCK parking lot...the top of the front of the school had this narrow green band to it...holy **** it's all empty Molson bottles - from the auditorium all the way to the end of the gym, lined up like some many dead soldiers...HUNDREDS...must have been an 1/4 mile of empties stacked on the front of the roof in that neat little row...incredible...

(sniff sniff) That's beautiful. I'm tearing up just thinking about it. :D
Reminds me of the lobby table at Narcon on Saturday night.;)
 
The decal technique didn't work - the ink came out fine and held, but I couldn't get the wrinkles out over the chrome. So, I printed on regular paper then cut the lines and boxes out with a sharp xacto and glued the paper on the chrome. So far it looks great. I will overcoat the whole thing when I am done. I also used the white strip dry transfers.

Drew
 
I am just starting my PDR Gemini Titan, I have been following the threads on Drew's build. GREAT JOB!!!!!
I would like to get a paper shroud for the capsule but I cannot find one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mark
 
There HAD been a website that had pdf files that you could print & assemble paper models... I'm still trying to find the Gemini-Titan site...

When I find it (I love windows for doing two things at once!) I'll come back, edit this post & add the link to the site...

L8R,

Glen A.

Here it is - https://web.archive.org/web/20000831095129/www76.pair.com/tjohnson/gt2inst.html

Page 4 of the pdfs has the Nose cone components. Rescale it as necessary. Good Luck. Print on self adhesive page & you are done.
 
Originally posted by brianc
This one? https://jleslie48.com/gallery_models_real.html

(it used to be here - https://www.lhvcc.com/egiftshop/ )

Yep, that's the one for the Titan wrap. It's beautiful, and if the gray areas were only a little more aluminum looking, I would have just wrapped the whole thing in paper! You could still get a terrific model doing that. I printed the wraps on glossy photo paper at 90% on my Epson Stylus 660 ink jet printer, then sprayed them with Testor's decal sealer. I used contact cement to attach them. The capsule wraps on those two sites, however, are not really close to the real thing, which is surprising considering how good the Titan wraps are. Go to Delta 7 Studios site to see beautiful capsule models. You should really buy the CDs and then you can rescale any size you want - there is a sample there. The adapter wrap is from Kurt Shachner's decal site:
https://www.rocketshoppe.com/decals.htm
If you use a wrap for the capsule you will need to sand down the cabin area on the PDR/BMS cone; it's really not close to the scale dimensions. Also the nose sections will need to be sanded and they are not long enough - there's a good 1/4" of empty space at the top of mine. I stuck a balsa dowel in there to support the cap.

I need to do the tedious job of cutting out individual letters for the United States on the chrome areas, than add the conduits. BTW, I am not using the original Estes method of using a launch lug for the conduit. There are two, and they are flat and rounded. I am using styrene strips and will add separate launch lugs over the paper wrap seams.

Drew
 
I finally found the solution for the lettering on the chrome areas: Permasign vinyl lettering, 1/4" black Helvetica is a perfect match. It was a pain to line up, and a couple of letters are a bit out of line, but it looks good to me.
Drew
 
Originally posted by dtomko
but it looks good to me.

It looks good to me too. The only thing I have to add is: you probably should have painted the stuffer tube black so it is less visible.


Bill
 
Thank, Bill, and everyone.

Actually, I painted the stuffer tube red on purpose. In a few photos of the GT, you can see the top of the first stage tank through the openings of the interstage, and it was a red color.

Drew
 
Originally posted by dtomko
Go to Delta 7 Studios site to see beautiful capsule models. You should really buy the CDs and then you can rescale any size you want - there is a sample there.
Drew

Drew,

Here's a really dumb question. Is there a way to directly scale the output of a PDF when printing (e.g., is there a way to have it print at 75% of full size)? Or do you have to print out a master, slap in on the platten of a color copier and set the copier to the desired reduction/magnification?

DeWain
 
Originally posted by DeWain
Drew,

Here's a really dumb question. Is there a way to directly scale the output of a PDF when printing (e.g., is there a way to have it print at 75% of full size)? Or do you have to print out a master, slap in on the platten of a color copier and set the copier to the desired reduction/magnification?

DeWain

I believe it is not possible, I have the ful version of acrobat and cant seen to reduce the size. You can set the printer margins larger to control the size but that would be trial and error, and you may not get the right size,unless there is a 3rd party app that could do it, youll have to use a color copier.

Mark Ettinger
 
DeWain and Mark,

I am not sure of the technicalities, but I have Acrobat Reader and what I did was set the size using Properties under Print. Don't just hit the printer icon, but use Print from the File menu. When the menu comes up, go to Properties, then Layout, then Reduce/Enlarge. Check Custom and you can set a percentage. I used 90% with my Epson Stylus 660 and the fit was perfect. I suppose I was using the printer controls; I don't think that is changing the output from Acrobat (I only have Reader anyway). I did not have a reduction in quality.

Hope this helps.

Here's a shot of the GT with all the markings on. I now have to overcoat the first stage chrome with satin or flat to knock down the shine, then add the conduits.

Drew
 
Originally posted by dtomko
DeWain and Mark,

I am not sure of the technicalities, but I have Acrobat Reader and what I did was set the size using Properties under Print. Don't just hit the printer icon, but use Print from the File menu. When the menu comes up, go to Properties, then Layout, then Reduce/Enlarge. Check Custom and you can set a percentage. I used 90% with my Epson Stylus 660 and the fit was perfect. I suppose I was using the printer controls; I don't think that is changing the output from Acrobat (I only have Reader anyway). I did not have a reduction in quality.

Drew

Yes I see that it works if your printer supports scaling, I was using my laser printer and there is no scale in the layout tab in the printer properties. I then changed it to the Epson inkjet and it works. So as long as the printer you are using supports scaling your in luck.

Mark
 
I figured it was something to do with the printer.

Scott, thanks, but my models aren't that amazing up close! There are lots of flaws on this one, crooked lines, bubbles under the Monokote . . .

I gave the lower section a coat of MicroFlat acrylic this morning with my airbrush. It came out blotchy and streaky. :mad:
I tried to take a bit off, but I realized I need to wait until it dries thoroughly and recoat. It's going to be frostier looking than I wanted, but pretty close to what the real thing looked like. Here's a shot of the "good" side.

Drew
 
I am working on my Pimp Daddy clone.

What should I use to glue the transparent fin assy together?

The Instruction say Butyrate dope. Can I still buy that in California?

Earlier in this thread somebody used CA and it was unsuccessful.
 
Drew,
you really are very modest...it looks incredible as I'm sure it will in person when you are satisfied with it....


Originally posted by Stuck Fingers
I am working on my Pimp Daddy clone.

What should I use to glue the transparent fin assy together?

The Instruction say Butyrate dope. Can I still buy that in California?

Earlier in this thread somebody used CA and it was unsuccessful.

That may have been me... Welcome Stuck Fingers... yes my CYA (check your local regs for legality) adhered fin can didn't work out too good..but my experience may very well have been a result of inexperience with CYA. I also tried old tube testors plastic model cement. If it had held up it would have looked kinda awful anyway. My pin held removable cardstock wrap and balsa fins worked out to my satisfaction and I also got the satisfaction of fabricating something to fix a problem. Aerodynamically it seems to do the job fine.

It is the weekend ladies and gentlemen...enjoy,
I hope you've enjoyed my 499th post.
Andy
 
There shouldn't be any problem buying butyrate dope; check hobby stores that have RC planes. I see it my local shop in NY state. You can also try Ambroid ProWeld; that's supposed to work on this kind of plastic. Others here know more about glues than I, so you might try posting a question in the Techniques area.

Congrats Andy! Where's 500????

Drew

P.S. I got fed up with the splotchy finish on the first stage and stipped off the flat overcoat. Acrylics are great; I just sprayed some Windex on a paper towel and scrubbed it all off. It didn't touch the vinyl letters of dry transfer white striping.
 
I finally got the finish I wanted on the chrome areas, after too many tries. The areas above and below the interstage are coated with Mcroscale Flat and the larger areas with Microscale Satin, just a light coat to take the extreme shine off. Now its on to the conduits.

Drew
 
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