I think you are pretty well set for one method of building. Here's a whole different approach for fast building, evolved over many years of night-before building for NARAMs and the like. You could work into some of this over time as you go.
Forget wood glue of any kind - too slow. Primary glues are fast CA, medium CA, CA accelerator, and a *good* 5-min epoxy - either Z-Poxy or the new West System G5. No CWF etc. for balsa filling - too slow, soft and not waterproof; it doesn't prevent fins from warping. Use thin CA for wood finishing; it cures instantly, sands well and is waterproof, makes the wood quite a bit stiffer and will let you put a really sharp edge on the piece if you need that. Mirror finish in 5 minutes. Papering with CA and regular printer paper (that soaks up the CA) for a little more strength.
Medium CA makes perfectly good fillets for LPR. You can use the 5 min epoxy for a more sculpted look. Be sure to put a zip-lock bag of nitrile gloves in your kit too. A small (4 oz.) plastic bottle of denatured alcohol and some q-tips and paper towels help for smoothing and cleanup of epoxy. For epoxy cups go to a grocery store that has the little Solo or Dixie salsa cups. They work perfectly and are drastically cheaper than anything labeled as an epoxy mixing cup. Also grab the bigger polyethylene cups from laundry detergent jugs.
If you build anything with plastic parts to be glued you want a small bottle of Plasti-Zap. it's a hybrid CA + plastic cement. It is fantastic - strong, fast and much easier to use than pure solvent plastic cements.
A small batch of slide-lock plastic bags is great for storing subassemblies and parts. If you leave some air in them it provides a bit of protection. Make sure to get the slide lock kind, the regular ones that make you press the seal together with your fingers are terrible and don't hold up to repeated use.
For spot filler get a tube of 3M Acryl-red putty (automotive) and some cheap lacquer thinner to dilute it, and a couple of small (1-2oz) bottles to mix it. Diluted stuff will fill residual wood grain in a jiffy. Squadron green putty can be had in smaller tubes, basically the same stuff. Thin layers dry fast, thick ones don't...you have been warned
Dremel tool - never go anywhere without a Dremel tool. Don't get a Chinese imitation, and do get a chuck, not just the collets. Most-used things are the sanding drum, a tile cutter bit, EZ-lok cutoff wheels. Mine always goes into my field build kit when I travel. A zillion uses from small LPR through Level 3 work.
+1 on a couple of 12"+ aluminum angle stock in different sizes. The Estes tube marking gadget is also fairly useful. Get or make a fin alignment jig too...the Estes one or build one of the many recipes here on TRF. Also get a couple of 12"+ pieces of dowel in 3/8 thru 1" sizes. They have many uses including holding shock cord mounts in place like you mentioned.
Also make a couple of modular rocket stands from some 3/8" ply squares (~3" square), some 1/2" dowel, and a few spent 18 and 24mm motor casings. The casings will all nest so by drilling 1/2" holes in the ply base you can quickly put together stands for 13, 18 and 24mm motor mount rockets that collapse to almost nothing.
This all sounds like a lot but my LPR go box is a single Sterlite 27qt flat bin.
Have fun and hope you may find some of this useful!