Level 3 Build Thread -- Velociraptor REX

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Doc, Nice build !!

Your vauum system makes mine look like something from the Red Green show.... and I use mine every day to make a living !!!:eek:

If you don't mind I would like to throw out another idea for fins. Use a HL 60 core and then bag them in S-Glass or carbon or a combination or materials. The carbon would make them nice and stiff and the glass would make them more durable in a terms of shock load.

Foam core bagged fins are VERY strong and light. They are also MUCH less work than you are going through. If they were bagged with a nice carbon they would also look really nice.

Shoot, I could even cut air foiled cores for you and walk you through the bagging process.

Here is a carbon wing I did this past summer. The pics really don't do it justice, the gloss is so nice I can see my reflection in it.

Very nice work !! Paul

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Doc, Nice build !!

Your vauum system makes mine look like something from the Red Green show.... and I use mine every day to make a living !!!:eek:

If you don't mind I would like to throw out another idea for fins. Use a HL 60 core and then bag them in S-Glass or carbon or a combination or materials. The carbon would make them nice and stiff and the glass would make them more durable in a terms of shock load.

Foam core bagged fins are VERY strong and light. They are also MUCH less work than you are going through. If they were bagged with a nice carbon they would also look really nice.

Shoot, I could even cut air foiled cores for you and walk you through the bagging process.

Here is a carbon wing I did this past summer. The pics really don't do it justice, the gloss is so nice I can see my reflection in it.

Very nice work !! Paul

Thanks, Paul.

Yeah, about three weeks ago I realized what a royal PITA this honeycomb is this time around. It was no problem with my last build, so I decided to go for it again. This time has been much more work, more expense, and more time. I think this will be the last time I go this way and my next project will almost certainly use a wrapped foam core fin design.

Thanks for the offer on the fins. May have to pick your brain on my next build.

Bryan
 
Great job on the build so far. Another idea for hollowing out that honeycomb material would be to put a dado head on your tablesaw and run it through, or a blade with a thick kerf might work with multiple passes as well. I've never used it myself though so I'm not sure. My compliments to you on keeping all those wood working tools looking brand new.
 
Very nice build.

What blade are you using to cut fiberglass? Make/model?
 
Very nice build.

What blade are you using to cut fiberglass? Make/model?

Thanks. I use a regular metal-cutting blade in my jigsaw, which works fine. For the circular saw, I use the Diablo blade for plastics from the Home Depot. Model #D0756N. Here is a link:
https://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=202035231&navFlow=3&keyword=D0756N&langId=-1&searchRedirect=D0756N&storeId=10051&endecaDataBean=com.homedepot.sa.el.wc.integration.endeca.EndecaDataBean%401299f9b9&ddkey=Search

Hope that helps.

Bryan
 
To add stiffness to the fins, I will be adding two layers of carbon fiber. The first layer will be applied to the fin blanks and will help to reinforce the bond of the fin edges to the blanks. The second layer will be applied as a tip-to-tip reinforcement after the fins are attached to the airframe. This should provide more than enough stiffness and strength to take any motor I can shove in the 98mm motor mount. I thought briefly about going to 150mm, but wanted to go closer to 2x upscale of the stock 54mm motor tube.

I know this step, like many other steps in this build, is quite elementary to many people on this forum. However, I include even these small steps for completeness and for those who may not have done these particular steps themselves.

First, I stack-sanded the fins for uniformity. I aligned the root edges of the three fins, then taped all the edges. I used my belt oscillating sander with a miter gauge to keep the fins aligned.
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Next, I filled the joint between the edge of the fiberglass fin blank and the edge material with Bondo glazing putty. When the putty was fully cured, I sanded the entire fin with 40 grit sandpaper to rough up the fiberglass and remove excess glazing putty, providing a good bonding surface. The fins were then cleaned with acetone. Here are the fins ready for laminating.
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I used 5.8oz twill weave carbon fiber. I want the carbon fiber layers laid up at offset angles, so I cut these pieces at a 45 degree angle on the carbon fiber cloth. This results in more wasted carbon, but laying up the carbon layers at angles improves strength further. I chopped the excess carbon fiber material into small pieces for later use in reinforcing fillets.
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I used a circular cutter to cut the carbon fiber. It cuts through the cloth without problem.
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I used West Systems resin with 206 (slow) hardener. This allowed me to easily do three fins at a time without worrying about the epoxy curing before the fins were laid up.
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The epoxy was first spread on the fin blank using a foam roller.
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The dry carbon fiber cloth was then applied to the fins and smoothed thoroughly.
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Additional epoxy was applied to completely wet out the carbon fiber.
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Peel-ply was then applied. Because this layer will be covered with the tip-to-tip reinforcement later, I wanted to keep the surface rough. I therefore used cheap, 2.74oz polyester peel ply. This leaves an ideal roughened surface for secondary bonding.
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I then used the foam roller to remove remaining bubbles from under the peel ply.
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The fins were flipped over onto a double layer of quilting batting for breather material and carbon was applied to the other side in the same manner.
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The three fins were then placed in a vacuum bag and a vacuum applied. Once I was satisfied with the vacuum, the bag was placed in my curing oven and allowed to cure for 10 hours at 95 degrees.
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Here are the six fins with the peel ply removed. This step adds significant stiffness plus reinforces the bond of the edge material. Beveling the edges will clean up the fraying at the edge of the carbon fiber.
1135154021_eZQeC-XL.jpg
 
Very Nice,

Got to get my self a vac bag setup. Looks a lot easier than trying to clamp boards together.
 
Another question for you regarding your Gast vacuum pump. Does the manual specify the type of seals used within the pump? Are they Viton seals? The reason I ask is that I'm looking for a good pump that can also evaporate acetone and other solvents. Unlike buna/nitrile, Viton is chemically resistant. I checked Gast's website but I couldn't find any info regarding the seals. They do have vacuum generators with Viton seals but there's no mention of the pumps having them. Any idea?
 
Another question for you regarding your Gast vacuum pump. Does the manual specify the type of seals used within the pump? Are they Viton seals? The reason I ask is that I'm looking for a good pump that can also evaporate acetone and other solvents. Unlike buna/nitrile, Viton is chemically resistant. I checked Gast's website but I couldn't find any info regarding the seals. They do have vacuum generators with Viton seals but there's no mention of the pumps having them. Any idea?

Sorry. No mention of the type of seals in the owner's manual either. I would be surprised if it did have them, but really I have no idea.
 
I have the same pump. It's intended for pumping out automotive AC refrigerant. I use it for making propellant & have been using it for almost 7 years now without any trouble. All I do is change the oil every so often.




JD

Sorry. No mention of the type of seals in the owner's manual either. I would be surprised if it did have them, but really I have no idea.
 
Several people have asked about this thread, so I figured it would be reasonable to post something about it.

This build has been a royal PITA through each step. I ended up doing the fins four times.

First, I used the honeycomb material. The router mangled the G10 skin when I was trying to remove the honeycomb from the edges and I was really not happy with the results, so I started again.

The second time through is the one documented in the above pictures. When I ran the fins through my beveling jig, the bevel cut too far into the G10 for me to be comfortable with it, so I ended up abandoning the honeycomb altogether.

At this point, I was getting a little frustrated. I had already invested a ton of time and not a small amount of money and had nothing to show for it. I considered making foam core fins and vacuum bagging skins on them, but I have never done this before and didn't want to try a new technique with time running a little short.

Therefore, I decided to go simple. I used two sheets of 3/16" aircraft birch plywood to make up the 3/8" fin thickness I wanted. I sandwiched a layer of fiberglass cloth between them and wrapped the entire stock sheets in carbon fiber skins. This created strong and stiff material that I could cut the fins out of.

So I cut the fins out and beveled the edges. This time, I was satisfied with the bevels and the fin stiffness. What I wasn't satisfied with was the warping of the fins. The 3/16" ply was a little warped, but I figured that putting two sheets together and bagging it on a flat table would straighten them out. It didn't. I figured I could cut the fins and the warp would be less noticeable. It wasn't. I beveled them anyway, hoping it wasn't as bad as it looked. It was. So after several weeks of trying to straighten the warped fins, I finally accepted reality and discarded those fins as well.

At this point, I was pretty discouraged. I decided I would make one more attempt. This time, I used two layers of 1/8" aircraft birch plywood sandwiched around a 1/8" layer of G10 fiberglass. I again covered the plywood with carbon fiber skin. This time, I bagged the stock 2x4' sheet between pieces of thick glass to avoid any warping. I figured the G10 would be stiff enough to keep the pieces from warping as well.

It turns out, I was right and the stock was not warped. However, I didn't count on the epoxy seeping through the breather cloth sticking so firmly to the glass sheets. I was completely unable to remove the layup. I ended up spending three evenings smashing the glass on each side with a hammer and chiseling it away from the peel ply. About cost me the rest of my resolve and I almost stopped the build at that point.

The reason I am posting this is that I spent so much time and energy on the fin material that I ran out of time and energy to post to this thread. I plan on completing the thread over the next several days, so bear with me and we'll see how things turn out.

Regards,
Bryan
 
Sorry to hear of the frustrations. I lay up a lot of fins and too learned the hard way to always put a sheet of parchment paper on the inside of the press material.

Several people have asked about this thread, so I figured it would be reasonable to post something about it.

This build has been a royal PITA through each step. I ended up doing the fins four times.

First, I used the honeycomb material. The router mangled the G10 skin when I was trying to remove the honeycomb from the edges and I was really not happy with the results, so I started again.

The second time through is the one documented in the above pictures. When I ran the fins through my beveling jig, the bevel cut too far into the G10 for me to be comfortable with it, so I ended up abandoning the honeycomb altogether.

At this point, I was getting a little frustrated. I had already invested a ton of time and not a small amount of money and had nothing to show for it. I considered making foam core fins and vacuum bagging skins on them, but I have never done this before and didn't want to try a new technique with time running a little short.

Therefore, I decided to go simple. I used two sheets of 3/16" aircraft birch plywood to make up the 3/8" fin thickness I wanted. I sandwiched a layer of fiberglass cloth between them and wrapped the entire stock sheets in carbon fiber skins. This created strong and stiff material that I could cut the fins out of.

So I cut the fins out and beveled the edges. This time, I was satisfied with the bevels and the fin stiffness. What I wasn't satisfied with was the warping of the fins. The 3/16" ply was a little warped, but I figured that putting two sheets together and bagging it on a flat table would straighten them out. It didn't. I figured I could cut the fins and the warp would be less noticeable. It wasn't. I beveled them anyway, hoping it wasn't as bad as it looked. It was. So after several weeks of trying to straighten the warped fins, I finally accepted reality and discarded those fins as well.

At this point, I was pretty discouraged. I decided I would make one more attempt. This time, I used two layers of 1/8" aircraft birch plywood sandwiched around a 1/8" layer of G10 fiberglass. I again covered the plywood with carbon fiber skin. This time, I bagged the stock 2x4' sheet between pieces of thick glass to avoid any warping. I figured the G10 would be stiff enough to keep the pieces from warping as well.

It turns out, I was right and the stock was not warped. However, I didn't count on the epoxy seeping through the breather cloth sticking so firmly to the glass sheets. I was completely unable to remove the layup. I ended up spending three evenings smashing the glass on each side with a hammer and chiseling it away from the peel ply. About cost me the rest of my resolve and I almost stopped the build at that point.

The reason I am posting this is that I spent so much time and energy on the fin material that I ran out of time and energy to post to this thread. I plan on completing the thread over the next several days, so bear with me and we'll see how things turn out.

Regards,
Bryan
 
HPR can add up in the $$$ and if you build anything like the rocket in this thread expect to need some decent tools..nice build so far
 
Here are a couple of pictures of the final fin layup (5.8oz carbon fiber, 1/8" aircraft plywood, 1/8" G10 sheet, 1/8" aircraft ply, 5.8 oz carbon fiber) sandwich. I only got a couple of shots because I got all messy and didn't want to mess up my camera.

Here is the 2'x4' sheet of G10. The glossy surface does not readily accept resin, so I wanted to really rough it up to prevent delamination.
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First, I set my router to a very shallow depth and ran it all over both sides of the G10.
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Then I sanded the snot out of the stuff with 40 grit sandpaper.
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This is the only photo I have of me laying up the stock for the final set of fins. After this shot I was too messy to play with the camera any more. After cutting both sheets of 5.8oz carbon fiber cloth, peel ply, and breather material, I thoroughly wet out one side of the plywood with West System resin and 206 hardener.
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The dry carbon fiber fabric was then applied and more epoxy was used to thoroughly wet out the fabric. A layer of peel ply was applied. The entire piece was then flipped over and more epoxy was applied to the other side of the plywood. The G10 sheet was placed on this. The other side of the G10 was wet out and the second sheet of 1/8" plywood was added, followed by more epoxy, another layer of CF, and another layer of peel ply.

Breather material was added to both sides and the entire mess was placed between two 2'x4' panes of 1/4" thick glass. Everything was taped together and the now very heavy setup was placed in a vacuum bag. It was placed on a flat surface and I used my vacuum press to pull the vacuum. The entire apparatus was cured in my curing oven (see the Avenger build for more details).

Following curing, I was very pleased to find that epoxy sticks really really well to glass:rant:. What I assumed would come off with some gentle prodding took a hammer, chisel, and three days to remove:cry:. I was left, however, with a 2'x4' sheet of very stiff, straight fin stock.
 
As noted in the last post, I decided to lay the fin material up as a single 2'x4' sheet of stock, then cut fins from that. I loosely cut the fins from the stock sheet, then stacked the fin blanks in sets of three and cut them all at once to make them completely uniform.

Here are the aft fins ready for final cutting of three blanks at once. The fins are held together on all edges with masking tape and the pattern from RockSim was used to outline the final fin shape.
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I cut the three fins at once using my handy-dandy new Festool circular saw and table. The table is set up so the aluminum guide rail is at the height of the stacked fin blanks. The guide rail is supported on each end by connectors built into the table. The really nice thing about this system is that you don't have to measure things to figure out where the cut will be. You align the line to be cut with the edge of the guide rail and the cut is made at exactly that spot. Saves a ton of time.
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This photo shows the circular saw on the aluminum track cutting through all three fins at once. The saw is designed to plunge the blade to the correct depth to cut through the material and cuts just into the table itself. This keeps the bottom of the cut cleaner than if it was just supported from one end of the wood as is the case for a typical circular saw cut. The saw has a vacuum port attached to the back to reduce chips. The saw plugs into the Festool shop vacuum and the vacuum turns on when the saw is in use. This makes things much quieter between cuts. Sorry about the blurry photo. My hands were full of power tools and I somehow didn't get good focus.
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Sorry if the above sounds like an ad for Festool. It is really great German-made equipment, but it is outrageously priced and I'm sure that someone with a modicum of skill could easily do the same thing with more standard equipment. However, with my habit of measuring once, then cutting several times, the system will likely pay for itself just in the cost of materials that I no longer waste due to my own stupidity:rolleyes:.

Once the front and rear fins were cut, I beveled them using my beveling jig. There are much better pictures of this jig in action in my Avenger build thread. This photo shows the use of a scrap piece of plywood to better hold the fin material against the jig. Close inspection of the photo shows that this is actually a picture from the third set of fins (two thicknesses of 3/16" aircraft plywood). As noted above, I discarded these fins. By the time I was at this step for the fourth (and final) set of fins, I was pretty much done taking pictures, so I don't have any.
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Here is one of the forward fins ready to go through the jig. The jig is set to apply approximately an 8 degree bevel. This turns out to be quite a large bevel for 3/8" thick fins, spanning more than an inch and a half into the fin.
DSC4994-XL.jpg


Here I am passing one of the fins through the jig. One of the things that I fortunately realized on the third fin set that I was able to correct for the final set was that this bevel required too much material to be removed at once. This led to "chatter" of the fin on the bit, gouging the material and leaving a somewhat serrated edge. Although this could be filled in subsequent steps, I found that by running the fin through positioned higher up on the jig for one pass removed most of the material. I could then set the fin at the proper level against the bottom of the jig and cleanly remove the remaining material, leaving a very smooth beveled edge that required little filling or finishing.
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And here at last is a photo of a completed fore and aft fin. The beveling turned out much better than I could have done by hand and each fin set is nearly identical.
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After the mess with the fins, I was happy to be moving on to something else. For the centering rings on this project, I chose to go with two layers of 1/4" aircraft birch plywood sandwiched around a layer of fiberglass cloth with an additional layer of fiberglass cloth on each side. This made for relatively light centering rings with a large amount of edge surface area and significant stiffness. Probably overdone, but heck, this is an L3 cert build after all.

This photo shows the ring cutting setup. A 1/8" pilot hole is drilled in the center of the ring area. I use two different Jasper Jigs to cut rings. Here is the smaller of the two. It is a little less cumbersome to use than the larger jig. The appropriate hole is selected on the jig and a pin is passed through the hole into the pilot hole on the material.
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A 1/4" upcutting spiral router bit is used for the cut. This photo shows the larger Jasper Jig.
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This photo shows the outside diameter of the centering ring cut out. The guide pin is still in the pilot hole.
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Here, the inside diameter for the centering ring has been cut. A little fine tuning with sandpaper and this ring is ready to use.
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Here is the aft end of the 4"x48" fiberglass motor tube. It has been sanded down and dry fitted with the 98mm Giant Leap Threaded Slimline motor retainer. The motor retainer has a flange that is meant to go forward of the aft centering ring, providing additional protection against motor casing ejection. In this case, however, I decided to have the flange butt up against the inside of the boat tail. I wanted all the force on the retainer to be transferred as soon as possible to the airframe. Therefore, I placed a small centering ring just forward of the flange. However, the square centering ring shown in this photo is not a good fit for the tapering wall of the boat tail.
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I used the flange on the retainer to mark the appropriate thickness for the aft end of the centering ring.
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I then set the table on my disc sander to an angle that approximated the inside angle of the boat tail and tapered the centering ring to the appropriate angle.
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This photo shows the tapered centering ring dry fit against the flange of the motor retainer.
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To actually make the boat tail, I used one of my two Performance Rocketry 8" 4:1 ogive nosecones. I marked it close to the appropriate point and used my heavy-duty Dremel cutting wheel to cut the tip off. This wheel does not shatter like the mini cutting wheels that are included in the Dremel kits. I don't like the thought of one of those exploding in the middle of a cut, sending shrapnel everywhere. Even though this wheel will not shatter, eye protection is still a must.
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After test fitting the motor tube with the Slimline retainer installed, the hole is cut to the appropriate size and the end is sanded smooth.
 
To slot the airframe, I used my slotting jig. I actually made this jig last year when I was getting ready to slot my Avenger airframe. I used an insert to center the smaller 5.5" diameter tubing. Here, I used the full-sized 8" jig. The tail cone was taped onto the aft end of the fincan airframe. I dry fit the motor tube with centering rings inside the boat tail and airframe to keep everything square. This allowed me to cut the slots for the forward and aft fins in the split fin design at once, ensuring they were perfectly aligned.
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After lining up one edge of the router bit with the line on the tape, the router is started and the bit is plunged into the tube. The Performance Rocketry fiberglass is really strong. The brand-new spiral-cutting router bit did not enjoy three trips down the tubing. By the end of the last cut, the bit was toast. :kill:
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I somehow didn't get any decent shots of the slotted airframe. Here is a shot of the slots in the boat tail. The shoulder of the boat tail shows the aft end of the forward fin slots.
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Although the slotting jig took some time to design and build originally, it has saved me a ton of time since building it. By using shims and inserts, I was able to easily cut straight, true slots in three different airframes over the winter. Considering my lack of skill with jigsaws and Dremel tools, I consider this jig a great investment. :grin:
 
As an added point of strength for this rocket, I decided to use fin pockets instead of internal fillets. Although I could have used internal fillets in this rocket without too much difficulty, I wanted the experience and added strength of the fin pockets.

Essentially, the fin pocket allows the fin to be placed essentially blindly on the motor tube. It replaces the internal fillet and provides a very strong bond. Fin pockets are especially useful in rockets where placing an internal fillet would be difficult.

The pocket is constructed of hardwood square stock. As this photo shows, the square stock is not a particularly suitable shape for the 4" diameter motor tube.
DSC5115-XL.jpg


To form the square stock to the motor tube, I clamped a scrap piece of fin material between two pieces of stock cut to the proper length for the aft fins. Because I did not want to sand down the root edge of the scrap material (which would have been a ton more work), I elevated the fin stock and clamped the assembly tightly. This provided proper spacing while assuring I was only sanding the square stock and not the fin edge.
DSC5117-XL.jpg


The entire assembly was then sanded along the motor tube wrapped with 60 grit sandpaper. This was more work than I anticipated and I decided that next time, a softer wood like basswood would work just fine and be easier to sand.
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This photo shows a fin with the two formed pocket pieces held on either side. The sanding produced a much better fit. Each pair of stock pieces was sanded together and labeled to theoretically provide the best fit when making the pockets.
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Here, I have begun to form the pockets. This photo shows several things: First, the line inscribed down the length of the motor tube. I use this instead of marker or pencil because those are very difficult to see on the black tubing. An awl run along a piece of angle aluminum makes a much easier-to-see line. Second, I have placed one side of each fin pocket on the motor tube right along the reference lines. The other sides are placed in relation to the first pieces once the epoxy dries. Finally, this photo shows the dry-fit aft fin aft centering ring with holes drilled in it. These holes allow the injection of expanding two-part foam into the aft portion of the boat tail. I did this to provide support for the cone itself, not so much for added strength of the fincan pieces.
DSC5122-XL.jpg


This photo demonstrates how well the scribed line shows up on the black tube and shows the alignment of one side of the pocket along this line. The fin will be placed above the piece of stock in this photo, with one edge right along the scribed line.
DSC5124-XL.jpg


In order to be maximally effective, the pocket should be a bit wider than the thickness of the fin. This allows a thin layer of epoxy on the root edge and along the joint between the face of the fin tab and the fin pocket.

To produce pockets of the correct width, spacers were made by running scrap material through the planer until it was the correct thickness, then cutting it into several sets of spacers. This photo shows one pocket with the spacers in place, ensuring that the pocket edges were parallel and properly spaced to accommodate the fin tab.
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After forming all three aft fin pockets, the aft fin aft centering ring was epoxied into place, taking care to not allow excess epoxy to get inside the fin pockets, which would interfere with correct seating of the root edge.
DSC5130-XL.jpg


Because this portion of the rocket will not be exposed, I elected to use chopped carbon for the fillets. I took some leftover scrap CF from the fabric used to cover the fins and chopped it into short pieces. A pinch of this was placed in mixed epoxy.
DSC5133-XL.jpg


A little bit of this goes a long way and turns into a hairball pretty quickly.
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I then slopped the nasty looking mess along the aft ring/motor tube joint and on the outside fin pocket/motor tube joints. As it is my intention that no one will ever see these joints again, I wasn't particularly concerned with cosmetics. Strength is the goal here.
DSC5131-XL.jpg
 
With the fin pockets complete, I was able to stomach going back to the fins for a little touch up. The router bit on the beveling router leaves a fairly smooth finish, but did require some filling. I chose to do this before mounting the fins to make it easier.

First, I used Bondo Glazing Putty to fill all the imperfections along the bevel.
DSC5149-XL.jpg


When the putty was fully cured, I mounted the fin on my beveling sander jig. This jig holds the fin at the same angle that the beveling router jig cuts and provides a stable platform on which to rest a sander to achieve the correct angle. This sander is also from Festool. Nothing special about it except that the dust collection on this is much better than on my old palm sander.
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This photo shows a small amount of the filler remaining in the low spots on the bevel.
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To prepare the boat tail section for attachment of the aft fins, the motor tube and aft fin aft retaining ring were epoxied in place. JB weld was used to bond the motor retainer and flange to the boat tail and West System thickened with milled fiberglass was used on the aft fin aft centering ring.
DSC5138-XL.jpg


When the epoxy was cured, the fins were mounted all at once. I was able to do this because I had previously cut a custom fin alignment jig that held all three fins in the correct orientation while the epoxy cured. This is a view from the aft end with all three fins in place. I used West System epoxy slightly thickened to attach the fins.
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This is a side view. The airframe section attached to the boat tail is just there temporarily for alignment and is dry fit with centering rings.
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This photo shows the forward section of the jig including the forward support for the airframe. As mentioned above, the airframe is only there temporarily and is actually not the fincan airframe tube, which is why there are no slots in it.
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After the epoxy was cured, I proceeded with foaming the fincan in the aft section (through the holes drilled in the aft fin aft centering ring) and in the aft fin section. I did this not so much to provide additional support for the fins, but more to provide support and extra rigidity to the fiberglass boat tail itself. The nosecone is only a couple of layers of boat cloth thick and the gelcoat actually cracked a couple of times when I was working with it. I didn't want to take any chances with cracking or weakness. The two pound per square foot foam I use provided excellent rigidity without adding a lot of weight. Also, as I was planning to fill the nosecone with the same foam, I figured the weight issues would balance themselves out. Additionally, the Velociraptor is somewhat overstable anyway, so extra weight in the aft end is not necessarily a bad thing.
DSC5184-XL.jpg
 
After the foam was cured, the aft fin forward centering ring was epoxied in place and fillets were applied using epoxy thickened with milled fiberglass. The holes in this centering ring were to allow foam from forward of this ring to infiltrate the ring, locking everything in place.
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At this point I needed to install some extra support for my rail buttons. This rocket is to be launched from a large (1515) rail using the large rail buttons, so I needed to reinforce the attachment for the 1/4" screws these buttons use. I am not a fan of trying to directly hit a centering ring and I like the idea of having something solid to sink the screws in. I ended up going with these weld nuts from McMaster-Carr. They are designed to be glued in place. First, I "gently" shaped the flat weld nut using a small sledge hammer to bash it against the inside of a scrap piece of airframe. :gavel:
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When I was slotting the airframe and boat tail, I drilled the two 1/4" holes for the rail buttons. The aft rail button goes through the shoulder of the boat tail, so I attached the weld nut to the inside of the boat tail shoulder using epoxy thickened with milled fiberglass.
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Here's a gratuitous shot of the remaining centering rings and bulkheads (minus the three centering rings that were already in place at this point and one of the fiberglass bulkheads). The G10 is 1/8" thick and I went through a couple of router bits in my circle cutting jig to cut those out.
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After filling the rest of the tail cone with the two-part foam, the forward fin aft centering ring was epoxied in place. This centering ring ended up right in the forward end of the shoulder, providing excellent support. The fin slots extend a little further than they should have because I originally cut the slots for a different iteration of the fins. The final fin design used a slightly shorter tab, so the centering ring is forward of the end of the fin slots.
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This picture shows a view down the motor tube, showing the scribed line discussed earlier. This allowed me to perfectly line up the pockets for the forward and aft fins.
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The first side of the pocket is placed directly on the line and epoxied in place.
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After the epoxy on the three pocket sides cured, the opposite pocket sides were placed using the same spacers used previously.
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Once this epoxy cured, fillets were applied to the motor tube/fin pocket joints using epoxy reinforced with chopped carbon. Chopped carbon-reinforced fillets were also applied to the centering ring joints. Care was taken to ensure that no epoxy got into the fin pockets themselves or on the forward edges of the pocket stock.
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At this point, the boat tail and airframe were ready to be joined. First, the shoulder of the boat tail was sanded with 60 grit sandpaper and cleaned with alcohol. I also roughed up the interior of the airframe to give more surface area to which the epoxy would bond.
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The two pieces were joined with epoxy. A 1/4" screw was inserted into the rail button hole to keep the two parts aligned. It was at this point that I realized I hadn't trued the tail cone to properly mate with the airframe. I ended up with a bigger gap than I wanted between the two parts. This could not be adjusted at this point as it would have interfered with the alignment of the holes for the rail buttons.:bang:
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I filled the gap with Bondo. It took a couple of layers to fill the gap reasonably well. In addition to the gap, there were differences in the diameter of the tail cone and the airframe, so the low spots had to be built up somewhat as well.
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I have had problems with cracking of the paint over boat tail/airframe joints in the past, so I eliminate this when I do boat tails by covering the joint with a layer of fiberglass. This eliminates flex between the two pieces that could otherwise cause cracking. In this case, there was not enough room to apply fiberglass between the joint and the leading edge of the aft fins. I therefore made patterns to cut out the fiberglass over the fin locations. There is one paper pattern for the satin weave fiberglass (which conforms better to curves than regular cloth) and one for a veil layer.
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Here I'm wetting out the satin weave fabric. I then place the pattern over the wet fabric and cut it with a circular cutter. This keeps fraying down to a minimum. I pick up the fabric with the paper still on it and lay it on the area. When it is positioned approximately correctly, I then peel back the pattern, leaving the fiberglass.
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The three forward fins were attached at one time. This shot shows a view through one of the fin slots into one of the fin pockets.
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To attach the fins, I mixed epoxy with milled fiberglass to a honey consistency, then poured it into the fin pocket through the slot. I used an epoxy brush to evenly distribute the epoxy along the base and walls of the pocket. Epoxy was also applied to the root edge of the fin.
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The fin was then placed in the slot and checked to ensure that the root edge was fully in contact with the motor tube along the entire length. The tape at the forward edge of the fin helped to keep the fin down. This photo shows the Bondo under the fiberglass where the boat tail had to be built up to match the diameter of the airframe.
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The forward fins were then clamped in place in relation to the aft fins using clamps and scrap wood. Once cured, the fins were well aligned.
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One of the unique features of the Velociraptor is the appearance of the forward "talon" fins. In the original kit, the builder is invited to shape the talon fins by removing some of the plywood with a Dremel tool and beveling the fin to look more like a talon.

For the upscale, I had the advantage of forming the fins from three layers (1/8" aircraft plywood, 1/8" G10 fiberglass, 1/8" plywood) just like the main fins previously detailed. However, instead of laying up the fin blanks then cutting each fin and shaping afterwards, I chose to shape the fin components first, then lay them up into a completed fin.

First, I cut 1/8" aircraft plywood into six rectangles large enough to cut fins from. I took two copies of the talon fin pattern from RockSim. I cut out the trailing edge of one pattern to look more like a talon. I stacked the six plywood blanks and taped them together. I then taped the altered talon pattern on top of the stack of plywood.
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All six pieces of plywood were then cut at once using a spiral blade on my scroll saw. This blade allows cutting at any angle, so you can just move the piece all around the blade instead of constantly turning the piece to line it up with the cutting edge.
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Here, the entire stack of six fin blanks has been rough cut using the scroll saw.
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I then used my oscillating spindle sander to smooth the cut edges.
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I had to switch to a smaller diameter spindle to get the tight inner radius.
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Here are six identical talon-shaped fins.
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I needed to form a smooth transition between the wood and fiberglass portions of the talon fins. I therefore used an edging bit on my router to angle the inner edge of the talon. I did these in three pairs, making sure that the angles were matched. I had to keep stacking the fins to give the bead on the bit something to roll along. Note that this is a potentially dangerous step as the router bit is completely exposed. I was very careful not to slip up and only worked with the inside angle, keeping my fingers well away from the bit.
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The next step was to cut the fiberglass inner portion of the talon fins. For this, I used the full pattern from RockSim. Because the curves on these parts were not as severe and because a spiral scroll saw blade would be shredded by the G10, I cut these with a jigsaw instead. Again, I stacked three blanks and cut all three at once. Even the bimetal jigsaw blades were no match for the total 3/8" thickness of G10. I went through three blades during this step.:y:

The fins were then stack sanded as was done for the plywood portions. I wanted to have a beveled trailing edge. I taped the portions of the trailing edge that were to mate with the plywood.
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I then used a half-round file to bevel the exposed portions of the trailing edge of each fin.
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A little sanding made a respectably sharp edge. The pencil mark on the fin is where the matching plywood talon piece overlaps.
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The three pairs of plywood talons were then mated with the three fiberglass centers. The fiberglass was roughed up with coarse sandpaper.
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Before mixing epoxy, each set was taped along the trailing edge to keep them aligned correctly with each other.
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West System epoxy was then mixed and applied to the plywood and to the roughed up portions of the fiberglass and the pieces were pressed together. Excess epoxy along the joint between the trailing edge of the plywood talons and the fiberglass was removed with alcohol before the epoxy cured. Each set of talon fins was then securely clamped while the epoxy cured.
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Excess epoxy seeped out through the leading edges of the fins during curing. The three completed fins were again stacked and then sanded on the belt attachment for my oscillating sander.
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Here are the three talon fins after leading edge sanding.
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The leading edge profile at this point was an unattractive square:
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Each of the three fins was therefore run across a roundover bit on the router table.
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This produced a nice, rounded profile to the leading edge of each talon fin. Sorry about the blurry photo. Aperture was too far open.:blush:
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After the talon fins were shaped, it was necessary to do one more step to properly fit them on the rocket. The talon fins are near the forward end of the fin can, well forward of the end of the 48" long motor tube. True thru-the-wall attachment of the fins to the motor tube was therefore impossible. I did not want to surface mount the fins as I didn't want to lose one in flight. I chose to cut fin slots for the talon fins and at least go thru the wall with them, even without the added strength from attaching to a motor tube. I'll detail how they were secured in a later step.

The issue at hand, however, was this:
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This image shows the aft end of the coupler tube partially covering the fin slot (this is a dry fit with no epoxy). I considered notching the coupler tube to allow full passage of the fin tab to the inside of the tube. I also considered just epoxying the fin onto the coupler tube in a sort of minimum diameter through the wall design.

Instead, however, I elected to use the coupler tube to increase the strength of the talon fin attachment.

First, I stacked the talon fins along their root edges. They were clamped between two sacrificial sections of 2x4 to improve stability.
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I then set my table saw blade to the depth that the coupler tube covered the fin slot. I set the fence so that the blade would cut a notch the depth of the covered slot far enough down the fin tab that the fins would sit at the appropriate depth on the airframe.
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A couple of passes later and I had fins with notches the correct width, depth, and length to accept the coupler tube in the slot.
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Here is a dry fit of a fin with the coupler set in place, locking the forward end of the talon fin in place. This resulted in a very strong assembly.
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Here's a close up of the talon fin in place.
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The next step was to apply fillets to the internal fin/airframe joint. I skipped this step on the aft fins as the foam used to strengthen the boat tail effectively worked as an internal fillet. I did not want to add the extra weight of foaming the entire forward fin section, and the strength that foam provides is debatable. Therefore, I chose to add internal epoxy fillets.

First, I taped the outer joints between the fins and the airframe to keep epoxy from leaking out. For the first set of fillets I tried injecting slightly thickened epoxy through aquarium airline tubing using a 60mL syringe. The resistance to the flow of thickened epoxy down the air tubing made this a difficult task and resulted in the tubing blowing off the syringe, dumping epoxy all over me.:eyeroll:

I thought about doing the spoon-on-a-stick technique, but realized quickly that it would take a lot of spooning and sticking to get enough epoxy in the right place and that in the meantime I was likely to make a pretty significant mess with all that spooning.:p

Therefore, I settled on this technique: I took a piece of angle aluminum, mixed up a bunch of thickened epoxy, and dumped it in the trough to the depth of the fillet (marked with brown Sharpie in this photo).
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I then slid the angle aluminum into the airframe until it stopped against the aft centering ring.
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By tipping the angle over and banging it around a bit, I managed to dump enough of the epoxy out to make a fillet with just one pass.
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Although this technique put enough epoxy into generally the right spot, it certainly wasn't a fillet to be proud of.
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I used a long piece of 1/2" PVC to smooth the fillet.
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There -- that's better!:wink:
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Once all the fillets were finished, the forward fin forward bulkhead was slid into position and reinforced with fillets. Also shown in this photo is the weld nut for reinforcement of the forward rail button.
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Sorry about the snarky post. Getting tired, so I'll call it a night before I embarrass myself further.:eek:
 

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