L2 Binder Design Velociraptor Build

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Pretty awesome to have the kit maker at your side literally every step of the way on this build. It is looking like you are off to a great start.

I was thinking the same thing last night. I am very grateful for that kind of support!
 
I am going to try to be as productive as possible this weekend because I have to travel most of next week. Tonight I got the e-bay couplers epoxied and the bulkheads epoxied and clamped.

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I used non-thickened West with milled fiber for all of the above and for the bond between the tail and the first BT.

For the first BT and tail, I first found the best alignment of the fin slots and give myself a mark to make sure they stayed aligned.

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Next I added some silica to the remaining strengthened West from above to a syrup consistency. Instead of putting the epoxy inside the BT forward of the fin slots, I placed a liberal amount on the CR near the edge. Once inserted, I spun the assembly by hand to force the epoxy out to the edges. I had to be careful to keep from spinning the BT from its position relative to the tail. Seems to have worked well enough.

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And once again resting for the night.

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Can't wait to see it finished...

What color scheme are you thinking of doing?
 
So I've been letting my daughter pick the paint schemes for my builds but lately she has been stuck on a patriotic kick that I don't think will work for the Velociraptor. Nothing wrong with red, white and blue but it just doesn't apply here. I am thinking of trying to match the colors from one of the Jurrasic world velociraptors but I have plenty of time for those decisions.
 
So I've been letting my daughter pick the paint schemes for my builds but lately she has been stuck on a patriotic kick that I don't think will work for the Velociraptor. Nothing wrong with red, white and blue but it just doesn't apply here. I am thinking of trying to match the colors from one of the Jurrasic world velociraptors but I have plenty of time for those decisions.

I did the same thing, my daughter has been helping me pick all my hardware and goodies when we visit (s)Lowes Home Improvement stores, and I have let her choose the paint for a color scheme she dreamed up for one of my rockets... should be interesting... because if you have a daughter like ours, you would understand... Can't wait to see what you and your daughter have in mind for the finish.
 
I am thinking of trying to match the colors from one of the Jurrasic world velociraptors but I have plenty of time for those decisions.

One of the best looking "Velociraptor" themed rockets I saw, was done with Rustoleum "hammered finish" green and other greens for shading & highlights.

The Hammered finish stuff gave the rocket surface a scaly,thick skinned snake like look, very appropriate for that dinosaur theme.

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Distance sprayed from & thickness of coat determines how large/small the effect.
It's true purpose is protective coating of electric motors/tool boxes/industrial stuff, where a "dimpled' cover all defects coating is needed.
 
One of the best looking "Velociraptor" themed rockets I saw, was done with Rustoleum "hammered finish" green and other greens for shading & highlights.

The Hammered finish stuff gave the rocket surface a scaly,thick skinned snake like look, very appropriate for that dinosaur theme.

View attachment 269614 View attachment 269615

Distance sprayed from & thickness of coat determines how large/small the effect.
It's true purpose is protective coating of electric motors/tool boxes/industrial stuff, where a "dimpled' cover all defects coating is needed.

That's really cool. I'll definitely look into it!
 
Though textured paints can negatively effect decals (should you have any). Be careful.

All The Best!
Jim
 
One of the best looking "Velociraptor" themed rockets I saw, was done with Rustoleum "hammered finish" green and other greens for shading & highlights.

The Hammered finish stuff gave the rocket surface a scaly,thick skinned snake like look, very appropriate for that dinosaur theme.

You didn't happen to get a photo of it did you? That's something I'd like to see.
 
Though textured paints can negatively effect decals (should you have any). Be careful.

All The Best!
Jim

It's not that kind of texture, actually very smooth. The solvent in paint causes the pigment to separate and rise creating the effect. Heavier you apply, more the texture is pronounced.
I did my Galaxy with it, no problems with vinyl. It dries smooth and high gloss. No need for clear, it is very, very durable and scratch resistant. See pic how smooth......

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Link to more pics... https://www.google.com/search?q=ham...moVChMIlYeAkIWgxwIVRX-SCh0NCAwX&dpr=1#imgrc=_

You didn't happen to get a photo of it did you? That's something I'd like to see.

No back in 2004-5 at a launch.
 
Talon fins in process:

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Don't laugh at my horrible pictures or amateurish internal fillets.

I'll get the other two on tonight. This weekend will be spent trying to perfect external fillets!
 
Fillets in process. I will be going to sand town.

West with milled fiber and silica. Too heavy on the silica so this not self-leveling well.

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The next set I did 1/2 the silica. While I then had to chase drips, overall the fillets look better. For the final set, I will use 75% of the original amount of silica and see if that is the happy medium. This is going to leave me with three separate and distinct sanding problems to overcome.
 
Third time is a charm. I found the right ratio of silica to epoxy". No runs, smooth finish. The last set should require minimal sanding.
 
Fin fillets sanded.

Another dry fit to keep the motivation high.

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I could use some advise though. On one of the 3 fillet sets (the first one if you read above) there are some aesthetically displeasing valleys in the epoxy. What would you all recommend to fill those? The overall fillet is over thick so I don't see a structural problem but man, I am tired of sanding.

Going forward I will not be using the baffle system supplied as I intend this to be a DD only rocket. That said, I will attach the lower airframe to the fin can with t-nuts and screws in case I change my mind.
 
West's Epoxy (30 minute) is my go-to for fillets, nice glass like finish, self leveling.
 
I went the bondo route and it made a huge difference. Tomorrow I will fill in a couple more low areas.

I also dry fit all the av bay components and installed the stock switch. I need to make a decision on the sled.
 
Sled assembled with plastic tubing and 1/8 plywood.

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Tomorrow I will install the altimeter, battery holder, cap terminals and charge holders. I need to by the powder and e-matches for the testing which will be happening soon.

I went with the 4-port option for the sensor.

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I also applied bondo to the next set it fillets and will sand later this evening. That should complete the fin work.
 
Charge canisters attached with JB.

Sled nearly complete. Would be done if I didn't run out of 4-40 nuts....

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I found some old Christmas lights and gave them a try as e-matches and they work beautifully.

I ordered 100 2-56 nylon screws for 88¢. Testing is imminent.
 
Completed av-bay.

Tomorrow I will get the screws installed through the upper and lower airframe into the av-bay and the shear pins installed through the lower airframe into the fin can and through the upper airframe into the nose.

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Interesting choice of copper caps for your charge wells. FWIW, I don't endorse that.
 
Copper is pretty soft; I overpressurized copper tubes/caps on my first L1 attempt (pyrodex charges - also never again). Needless to say, I put one more layer of electrical tape to confine on launch day than for back yard testing. Neither the copper, the bulkhead nor the airframe survived. Part of this was due to the confinement variability of the pyrodex, but I didn't like way copper reacted.

Doug
 
What do you experienced folks recommend? It's not too late to cut these off.
 

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