I only buy what I need from erockets.@kuririn, got any spare BT-80?
It'll cost me $9 for the Estes tubes, plus $15 for the Flip Flier they have on sale, plus $11 shipping, plus $80 for the Boyce rocket kit to use up the remainder of the BT-80.
I read it while working out today on the elliptical. Great read, just difficult to move the screen around the Apogee ads.Thanks guys. Hopefully my wordy approach wasn't too wordy.
When it comes to technical reports, my boss always told me, "Tell them what you're going to tell them, tell them why you're telling them, tell them again, and then one more time." I don't think you went that far!Thanks guys. Hopefully my wordy approach wasn't too wordy.
Thanks guys. Hopefully my wordy approach wasn't too wordy.
Yes, exactly. I really like seeing those test curves, some of the results were surprising to me.It's very clear. It is nice to see some actual data on a topic that has plenty of discussion, but mostly just shooting from the hip. This really answers some questions in a more definite way.
Interesting thought. Sometimes I'm really careful and lay the holes out with a fin marking guide and mark the distance from the top of the tube so that they are nice and symmetrical and sometimes I just "eyeball" it, so they're not perfect (see the MAV in the Apogee article, for example). In a dedicated payload section the holes are so small (and I generally use three) so flow through the tube isn't too likely. In the body....well, usually there's recovery system stuff partially blocking one or more when the rocket is ready to fly. Still, I'll need to think about that a bit.Not sure if it really makes a difference, but I usually put the vent holes in a spiral pattern up the tube. That way no 2 holes are at the same level. The thinking is that holes at the same level might possibly allow airflow through the tube which isn't what we want.
Yes, exactly. I really like seeing those test curves, some of the results were surprising to me.
The only additional test I would be interested in seeing is what happens when the vent holes are places close to the nose cone/body interface.
I did get close, though.....When it comes to technical reports, my boss always told me, "Tell them what you're going to tell them, tell them why you're telling them, tell them again, and then one more time." I don't think you went that far!
OMG, I actually remember you starting that build just before I went on a 5 year hiatus...I was even an early responder LOL! I think it looked great as an Estes kit!Cool. Original build is here, maybe useful for reference.
Geez this just reminds me of how slowly I build in comparison to other folks. Or maybe it's the Hawaii air that makes for speedy building.Pieces coming together. How long should the tube coupler AC-24 be?
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I find I’m the most productive with building after 9pm, especially after 11. To me, it’s like reading a book before bed.Geez this just reminds me of how slowly I build in comparison to other folks. Or maybe it's the Hawaii air that makes for speedy building.
Do you have Rocksim? Referring to the Rocksim file is the easiest way to see the details. If not, I'll try to describe here.
I don't know if that was super helpful regarding the coupler. See if you can figure it out from the videos, else come back here and ask again.
- The transition is specified as described in Tim's videos, four parts starting here: https://www.apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_Videos/Rocketry_Video_13. Note that I have built a lot of cardstock transitions but never a complete assembly in quite this way. My suggestion is to watch those videos to see exactly how he does it, then adjust according to your preferences. I had the length of the shoulder as 1.5" in the design I sent Tim, but I don't think I would normally use such a long one in my own designs; I'd probably go for 1".
- The pod tubes are spec'ed as BT20, 2.25" long on the long side. However they're not a critical component and you can change dimensions any way you like. I can't quite tell what you have there in the pic.
- That ring came out good.
- Be prepared to sand the ring holder fins to adjust fit of the ring. Of course this comes much later.
Let's just say the build is a lot easier with an off-the-shelf transition.... but Tim doesn't sell any.I would say this is an Expert build, almost like the Starship Nova. I find the hardest part is going through my parts for the necessary bits. I’ve had to improvise somewhat such as a piece of dowel to attach the eyelet screw to. Also fitting the centering rings inside the coupler is a challenge.
Yes I did.The shoulder is an important component because it determines the length of the NC section, if I understand it correctly. Did you see I’m adding a clear payload section (for the inevitable insectronaut)?
I used the cut out tube guide which fits a BT-50. I could shrink it down to a BT-20. Maybe later...
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