Mine measures 76.5 cm. Or approximately that. Hard to get a good length measurement without stretching the elastic.How long is the shock cord?
Is what got posted to JimZ's cover what you were looking for? I can try to scan mine, but it'll be a 2 part image because of the length of my scanner.Can someone post a hi-res scan of the face card? At least the 65th Anniversary logo part.
NOPE! Not me. By the time I got the email saying these were available they were gone. ( I wasn't going to buy one anyway.)Folks sure are fickle.
A few days ago people were talking about boycotts and never having anything to do with Estes after the company announced a change to their pricing policy.
Now people can't stop talking about ordering this 'limited edition' model and/or how they plan to upscale it.
Estes owns you.
Estes owns you.
Thanks! Can I get the width of the shock cord as well?Mine measures 76.5 cm. Or approximately that. Hard to get a good length measurement without stretching the elastic.
Thanks! Can I get the width of the shock cord as well?
Some other questions...
The OD and ID of the Screw Eye?
The dimensional breakdown of the NC.... We can break it down into 4 parts... The rounded tip, the conic section, the cylindrical section, and the shoulder. JimZ has the shoulder at .75" long.
But how wide is the cylindrical section where it joins the conic section? Is it really cylindrical, or just slightly tapered?
How long is the cylindrical section?
How long is the exposed section of the NC?
What is the aft diameter of the rounded tip?
With that I should be able to finish the sim up.
Thanks!
It’s better than I could have done itThis is my decent attempt at the logo using paint.net. It's not to scale.
Gee, if I had known it used a Balsa NC, I would've bought one!Very cool. I wonder why a balsa cone was chosen when the blow molded BBIII cone was available?
Gee, if I had known it used a Balsa NC, I would've bought one!
I'm good with what JimZ has, thanks.Mine measures 76.5 cm. Or approximately that. Hard to get a good length measurement without stretching the elastic.
Is what got posted to JimZ's cover what you were looking for? I can try to scan mine, but it'll be a 2 part image because of the length of my scanner.
Thanks for all that! I'll get back on it soon.Switching to SAE measurements since you made me get my calipers out.
Shock cord: 1/8" wide, 1/32" thick.
Screw Eye: 1/16" screw, 9/16" long. Eye OD is 13/32", ID is 9/32".
Nose cone:
My shoulder is 29/32"
Exposed section is 5 1/2"
Aft diameter of rounded tip is 5/64" (.08")
Doesn't seem to have a cylindrical section in the exposed portion. I think the taper is just slight. I've attached a photo of the nose cone against a speed square.
The taper angle does seem to change about 1” from the shoulder. Don't have a protractor handy, so I can't give the angle.
At the base, my cone measures .96".
1" up - .94"
2" up - .78"
3" up - .61"
4" up - .41"
5" up - .23"
Let me know if you need any other measurements. Happy to hold off on any build work until you've gotten the documentation you need, love your OR sim work.
I got two kits, two bags. That's an interesting idea....a parachute or two....I think all the kits come with the bag
It'snylonpolyester. I'm thinking 65th anniversary parachute.
The backing paper is yellowish.Question about the self adhesive decal... I'm seeing a lot of yellowish color in areas I'd think are white (such as the lettering)... Is this the backing paper showing through? Or is it actually a bit yellowish?
I know... is it showing through the lettering?The backing paper is yellowish.
Yes, the yellow is showing through the clear portions of the decal.I know... is it showing through the lettering?
I could really use a scan of the decal after it's been placed on a white background, along with a ruler for scale. I'm unable to clean up the scan from JimZ because of that backing paper showing through.i think i'm gonna scan and reproduce the decal on a slide-on sheet. i really dislike the stick-ons, but that being said, the instructions of Quest's Minotaur (which has self-stick) suggest dipping them in a little dish-soapy water before applying, which gives you a short window to adjust position. as i remember, it worked pretty well.
I found that there was a gap where the forward and rear fins joined... I opted to "fill" it, as a builder would do that.
I've got a 600 DPI scan of the decal still on its backing paper... It has a golden hue due to the backing paper showing through.I unboxed my kit today. Everything inside looks like it should. I haven't started building it yet though. I'm not sure how to get a good image of the decal without peeling off the backing and I don't want to that until I'm ready to apply it. Here are photos of the decals with and without flash. Maybe you can adjust the color levels to suit your needs?
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