I use Aleen's Quick-Dry Tacky Glue (a type of white glue) for most body tube assembly tasks, including coupler and centering ring installation. You would think, given the "Quick-Dry" part of the product's name, that I would would have plenty of "glue lock" horror stories, but I have never experienced any problems with it. That's because I use the same three techniques that Pippen described: test-fit the parts first, to see how well they fit together (is the fit tight? loose?), use a healthy bead of glue (don't slather it in there, but don't go too thin, either, or else the glue will start to dry before you get the part inserted), and insert the part in one smooth motion, without pausing.
Since you are an experienced builder, none of this will be any news to you. The main thing is to spread the glue in right where the part is going to be, or just before it, and to put in enough of a bead that it won't begin to dry in the time it takes you to put down the applicator and then pick up and insert the component.
I don't use yellow carpenter's wood glue for attaching anything inside the body tube. The glue shrinks as it dries, and when you use it inside the tube, it pulls on the inside wall, causing shallow dents to appear on the outside of the tube. At least, that I what has happened to me. It is most apparent with thin-wall LPR tubing, even up to BT-80 size. The phenomenon may not be as apparent, or might not occur at all with thick-wall tubing (such as Semroc's LT-series), but for that type, I use epoxy.
When I am getting ready to glue components into a tube, it helps to do a little planning first. For instance, when I get ready to glue in a tube coupler, I measure and put a series of marks halfway along the length of the coupler, then dry insert it into one of the tubes up to the marks, and use the end of the tube as a guide to draw a circle all the way around the coupler, connecting the marks. I also frequently use dowels as pushers to push motor blocks or baffles to the right depth inside the tube. I mark the desired depth on the dowel, and sometimes use some tape and scrap material to temporarily attach a "stopper" onto the dowel just above the depth mark. I don't have to carefully watch the mark on the dowel then as I am pushing the part into the tube; the stopper will stop the dowel when it reaches the correct depth. All of this is done just to insure that I can quickly get the part into the tube and in the right place without having it make any unscheduled stops along the way.
Mark \\.