Wildman Darkstar Mini build

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scoop55

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Alright, so my Wildman Black Saturday package with Darkstar Mini finally showed up today. Can't wait to start building this weekend!

Couple issues though:

1) no launch accessories: all of my other kits showed up with either lugs or buttons or both. This one, neither. So, if I go buttons, which ones?? I was thinking they would be similar to the size I have on my 2.6" Madcow Nike. Any idea what size? Guess I could go lugs....anyone know where to buy fiberglass ones? Prolly place one at the bottom and the other near the CG...

2) No shock cord. Came with a long kevlar, but I'm used to seeing this AND a nylon shock cord. Need to buy one I guess. (also need to figure out how to attach it to the engine mount, since there's no hardware or mounting hole for this)

3) Probably go ahead and get a blast protector as well. 3" x 3" or 6" x "6 ??

4) Quality. Will take some work, but I'm good with that. There's like glue or something all over the fins, and most of the cuts are pretty uneven/frayed. Don't mean to whine, but, well, I've built ALOT of rocket kits and well, this one leaves alot to be desired.

5) engine retainer. Definately want to go Aeropack, just need to find the correct size. Either Aeropack L1, L2 or P...... Coincidentally half of an aeropack adapter showed up with my order, and I didn't even order one yet! (see last pic)

Also got some bitchin engines...including a few G75 Metal-whatevers!! Can't wait for the sparks!!

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1- shock cord IS the kevlar. No elastic needed on ANY Wildman kits.

2- rail buttons or launch lug....your choice. Small buttons is what I have used and I would recommend using the style that best fits your clubs equipment (or your own launch equipment)

3- 6x6 is what I use and it fits the chute fine.

4- glue on the fins is from the manufacturing process. They glue several sheets of G-10 together in a stack and cut them at once.
Frayed ends of the fins are gone in 30 seconds with some sandpaper.

4- shock cord is glued to the motor mount and the forward centering ring will need to be notched

5- Aeropack needed is a "P" for fiberglass. You now just need a "body" (let Tim know he shipped a cap to you by mistake and your honesty may be rewarded with a discount on the cap...)


You will need to sand the fins anyway for the epoxy to adhere (mechanical bond)


6- Have fun and post some progress pics. You picked up a 29 6XL case too right??? ;)


Jason
 
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1- shock cord IS the kevlar. No elastic needed on ANY Wildman kits.

2- rail buttons or launch lug....your choice. Small buttons is what I have used and I would recommend using the style that best fits your clubs equipment (or your own launch equipment)

3- glue on the fins is from the manufacturing process. They glue several sheets of G-10 together in a stack and cut them at once.

4- shock cord is glued to the motor mount and the forward centering ring will need to be notched

5- frayed ends of the fins are gone in 30 seconds with some sandpaper.


You will need to sand the fins anyway for the epoxy to adhere (mechanical bond)


6- Have fun and post some progress pics. You picked up a 29 6XL case too right??? ;)


Jason

Cool...thanks for the quick response. Any suggestions on where to buy the buttons?

Don't laugh, but I'm assuming a 29 6XL case is for re-loadable engines?? Haven't steped up to that yet.
 
Cool...thanks for the quick response. Any suggestions on where to buy the buttons?

Don't laugh, but I'm assuming a 29 6XL case is for re-loadable engines?? Haven't steped up to that yet.

Tim sells rail buttons also. Just order some with the Aeropack body.

LOL ....a 29 6XL is the biggest reload case CTI makes and it will put you rocket to about 8K'

Do some reading through the other build threads on the forum. There is a ton of helpful pointers.
 
Or you could just download the instructions from the kit description: https://www.wildmanrocketry.com/ProductDetail.aspx?product=2893

With both epoxy & foam building in one manual. Dee...de.......dee.
By the way, WD-40 will make quick work of getting the glue from double sided tape off the fins. [which hold the G-10 to the cutting table during CNC work]

Just run sandpaper in the slots, a couple of swipes and your done.

Must be your first fiberglass kit?

If you use railbuttons, you will need to grind/cut the screws so they don't pierce the MM tube. They are too long for such a small airframe.
 
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