Wanted Wanted a unique launch controller

[gdjsky01]

I am looking for a launch controller that can handle 20 or 30 amps briefly. (think clustering high current starters).
I would like it to be a relay style since I would like it to work at 100' or 30 meters.
I do not want anything that requires two hands or presses for it to work. I'd like it to test continuity at the pad, be one toggle switch to arm, and then a launch button.
Ideally I want to stomp on the launch switch. Yes. A foot switch that works ONLY when armed (like the launch button) but lets me launch and take photos.
But a nice rugged under my shoe finger switch is just fine!

Pls, no "that is not safe". This is a want ad.

Or maybe a hand held plunger.

I do not expect an answer here... but hope springs eternal..

 

[cls]

Jeff, build one yourself. Put your own fresh12v battery at the pad, use an automotive headlight relay (30A, 12vDC coil) to close the igniter circuit, hook the relay coil to the club system. that way, the LCO controls the launching, and your igniters get the benefit of all the amps from your battery. Build the wiring yourself with #14 THHN stranded wire and crimp connectors.

yes I have done this because many club systems can't deliver the goods for high current igniters. in all cases, though, the club's equipment managers have taken the lesson to heart and bought new batteries, cleaned connections, wires, switches, etc. Things always get better! 2023 is just around the corner.

meanwhile, think about alternatives. first, it's a lot of current to light a Quickburst, or a Firstfire, and it's even harder to light 3 or 5 of them in parallel. Professional fireworks folks wire them in series, same current as 1, and 12v is enough for all. second, think about adjuncts like pyrodex pellets in the top grain of the motor, using low current ematches like JTeks. (oh for the glory days of 7x C6-7 clusters lit by Q2G2s! And Daveyfire 28fs for HPR 2nd stages...)

 

[gdjsky01]

Jeff, build one yourself. Put your own fresh12v battery at the pad, use an automotive headlight relay (30A, 12vDC coil) to close the igniter circuit, hook the relay coil to the club system. that way, the LCO controls the launching, and your igniters get the benefit of all the amps from your battery. Build the wiring yourself with #14 THHN stranded wire and crimp connectors.

yes I have done this because many club systems can't deliver the goods for high current igniters. in all cases, though, the club's equipment managers have taken the lesson to heart and bought new batteries, cleaned connections, wires, switches, etc. Things always get better! 2023 is just around the corner.

meanwhile, think about alternatives. first, it's a lot of current to light a Quickburst, or a Firstfire, and it's even harder to light 3 or 5 of them in parallel. Professional fireworks folks wire them in series, same current as 1, and 12v is enough for all. second, think about adjuncts like pyrodex pellets in the top grain of the motor, using low current ematches like JTeks. (oh for the glory days of 7x C6-7 clusters lit by Q2G2s! And Daveyfire 28fs for HPR 2nd stages...)

I will consider your words. Thanks and happy holidays... still if someone has something, I assume also custom, and does not need/want it. Or has replaced it with something else?

 

[gdjsky01]

So I sold some astronomy stuff and bought a Cluster Buster. Now I am wondering about the battery I'd like to use in a separate thread

 

[ayryq]

I built my own (not for sale) and would echo what cls said (i.e. build your own). Don't expect it to be cheap.

To add: I wired the launch switch in parallel with an XLR (three-pin microphone cable) jack in the side of the controller. The third pin lets me light up an LED ("armed") at the end of the wire. I took off the top of an old dynamic microphone and put a lighted switch at the top, so I can hand the "microphone" to a kid who can launch their rocket while I hold the momentary arm switch on the box (obviously you'd replace this with a simple toggle). It's been great to have the remote launch switch and kids like having the tactile launch button. Plus I can use different lengths of mic cable, easily available.

But, I was thinking it would be pretty easy to rejigger it to do what you want as well. After all, it's just connecting two wires. I bet a guitar pedal could be found that you could use. (Note: One of the reasons I used XLR and not, e.g. 1/4" stereo phone plugs, is that it's not likely to short any pins when plugging in or disconnecting the wire. My connection out to the pad box is 9-pin d-sub, aka serial cable, and supports four simultaneous launches.) As far as batteries, on the pad-end relay box I use a 12V Lithium car jump starter which I suspect would light your cluster easily, as we have had several successful drag races.

 

[gdjsky01]

I wired a foot switch in parallel with the launch button. That works well. Neither is armed without turning the key switch and then an annoying buzzer sounds and will keep on sounding until the switch is turned off. With two panel LEDs and the buzzer, the system is pulling (according to a small bench PS I have) 19ma. My tests with CTI starters, cheap orange eBay ematches, and MJG ematches have not set one off testing continuity.