Wondering about a unique (or not) launch controller

[gdjsky01]

I am looking for a launch controller that can handle 20 or 30 amps briefly. (think clustering high current starters).
I would like it to be a relay style (or so I think) since I would like it to work at 100' or 30 meters. Nothing fancy / wifi etc...
I do not want anything that requires two hands or presses for it to work. I'd like it to test continuity at the pad, be one toggle switch to arm back at the LCO table, and then a launch button.
Ideally, I want to stomp on the launch switch. Yes. A foot switch that works ONLY when armed (like the launch button) but lets me launch and take photos. But a nice, rugged, under my shoe, finger switch is just fine as well!

Pls, no "that is not safe". I am looking for help. Not admonishment.

Plans that any fool (like me) can follow are VERY welcome. My budget is a tad stretched at the moment... but any ideas are welcome!

 

[mikec]

I've taken a lot of launch photos and it's far easier to get someone else to push the button for you than try to manage two buttons at once, no matter how convenient they seem like they might be. Especially considering that it often takes an unpredictable while for a motor to get going.

That said, foot switches are easy enough to find (search for "foot switch" on Amazon) and wire into an existing system.

Or, if a locked-down shot would satisfy you, try a remote camera trigger.

 

[gdjsky01]

I've taken a lot of launch photos and it's far easier to get someone else to push the button for you than try to manage two buttons at once, no matter how convenient they seem like they might be. Especially considering that it often takes an unpredictable while for a motor to get going.

That said, foot switches are easy enough to find (search for "foot switch" on Amazon) and wire into an existing system.

I too have taken many images over the years: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffgortatowsky/collections/72157625901058378/

So it is agreed. It is a "I would like to have." I did wire a foot switch to a controller I got from some dude leaving the hobby. Alas the relay in the pad / battery module was more a single Estes starter design, not a cluster. It is fried. And I am not a guy who can replace it (as I do not know what to replace it with).

 

[mikec]

Then your question is more about a very high-current system and the foot switch is just an easy addition, correct?

Using a relay system with a very beefy relay and a large battery would be fairly straightforward. Or you could probably use igniters that took less current and that would be easier all around.

The typical relays in the systems we use at TRA-SD are only rated for about 5A, so they don't meet your needs. It might be as simple as replacing the relay in your fried system with a bigger relay. 12V automotive relays rated for 40A are readily available for $10 or less but that do take an amp or so to close, I think.

 

[Voyager1]

Perhaps something like this 12V horn relay. Cost about $10.

 

[dhbarr]

Dumping a bunch of relays is trivial, but all those parallel continuity tests are not.

 

[Voyager1]

Continuity might present a challenge. What cluster size are you proposing?

You’re probably looking at a multi channel launch controller with continuity indication on each channel.

 

[lakeroadster]

I'm a clip whip guy, so I check continuity with a multi meter.

But if you are not using a clip whip, and you wire all the ignitors in series, isn't the light on the controller your continuity check?

 

[BigMacDaddy]

A high-amp LiPo battery like this one can provide a ton of watts in a small space of time -- https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-11-4v-3s-6500mah-70c-lihv-battery-xt60 (actually can provide it for a longer time but then your electrical system needs to be sized appropriately). I know many people are not a fan of LiPos but they work great for high demand applications like this.

You may also want to use MOSFET(s) as switches (you can run heavy gauge wiring from the battery to the clip whip or power distribution system w/ MOSFET and lower gauge wiring the longer distance to your ignition buttons since it isolates the power vs. switch circuits -- also allows you to not worry much about the amp rating of your switches).

 

[AllDigital]

Jeff, can you tell us more about what you are trying to light and where you plan to launch it? FAR, Roc, and other clubs around SoCal have some pretty beefy boxes. Also, testing continuity on a cluster and/or getting all the igniters in a super large cluster to ignite can be tricky. The suggestion over on the For Sale board was actually pretty good, except it does assume you are launching at a club.

 

[gdjsky01]

Hi All... WOW thank you all for your thoughts and help so far! TRF is great.

Understand I get the continuity part. I test all my ignitors with a multi meter. Then wire them together. Also I just obtained a 5 lead clip whip.

This is the relay that was in the box (looks like 10A 12v) It is tiny tho

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-OEG/OUDH-SS-112D000?qs=YjZJnJrCSBTSucpRbkPJRA==

So I could replace it with the same and see...
Or if someone could recommend a replacement. I am pretty much a novice at electrical engineer. But I can followed directions (aka build Eggtimer stuff). Keep in mind the size of the original

In the second image you can see the upper left contact is not there. When I opened the box, that is what I found, a small piece of the contact still on the end of wire. So I assume it fried inside.

 

[gdjsky01]

Also, again I can follow instructions. If someone knows of a complete, nice, high current DIY project with GOOD instructions, parts list, and photos... pls link it to me.

Hope all of you had a nice Xmas. And if in western New York, are safe (probably not reading TRF huh?) ... I spent the 32 years in Rochester NY. I know Lake Effect. By best bud was from North of Syracuse. HE knew lake effect. Until Erie freezes over... it is a BEAR.

 

[AllDigital]

Jeff, your fried relay is obsolete at mouser (your link), Digikey, and other places, but you can order one from China on eBay for $10 + $9 shipping. Ordering and soldering it in would be the easiest for you if you like the controller you were using. Maybe get a few, because mechanical relays will continue to go out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113666709253

In that replay PCB footprint you likely won't find anything over 10A, so it would be a hack of a retrofit to go bigger with your current box. Also, anything over a 10A design gets complicated. Mechanical relays regularly serving 20-30A pulses are going to go bad fast, because their contacts will get charred. 20-30A mosfets are very expensive and need the right circuit to drive them. It's not rocket science, but I doubt you will find anything that big off the shelf, unless it is designed to serve another purpose like jump starting a car.

-Mike

 

[BigMacDaddy]

Jeff, your fried relay is obsolete at mouser (your link), Digikey, and other places, but you can order one from China on eBay for $10 + $9 shipping. Ordering and soldering it in would be the easiest for you if you like the controller you were using. Maybe get a few, because mechanical relays will continue to go out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113666709253

In that replay PCB footprint you likely won't find anything over 10A, so it would be a hack of a retrofit to go bigger with your current box. Also, anything over a 10A design gets complicated. Mechanical relays regularly serving 20-30A pulses are going to go bad fast, because their contacts will get charred. 20-30A mosfets are very expensive and need the right circuit to drive them. It's not rocket science, but I doubt you will find anything that big off the shelf, unless it is designed to serve another purpose like jump starting a car.

-Mike

I am certainly a novice at this but the Nerf modding community use Mosfets all the time to drive the upgraded motors they pack into those blasters (and you might not realize it but they draw like 30A or more -- and leave welts, so don't pew pew your kids).

There seem to be lots of 30A+ MOSFETs that cost very very little...

https://www.amazon.com/WeiMeet-RFP30N06LE-N-Channel-Mosfet-Arduino/dp/B07CTF1JVD/https://www.amazon.com/Bridgold-N-Channel-Transistor-International-Rectifier/dp/B07MW1N4Q5/https://www.amazon.com/ANMBEST-High-Power-Adjustment-Electronic-Brightness/dp/B09KGDDS37/

 

[49markt]

I am looking for a launch controller that can handle 20 or 30 amps briefly. (think clustering high current starters).
I would like it to be a relay style (or so I think) since I would like it to work at 100' or 30 meters. Nothing fancy / wifi etc...
I do not want anything that requires two hands or presses for it to work. I'd like it to test continuity at the pad, be one toggle switch to arm back at the LCO table, and then a launch button.
Ideally, I want to stomp on the launch switch. Yes. A foot switch that works ONLY when armed (like the launch button) but lets me launch and take photos. But a nice, rugged, under my shoe, finger switch is just fine as well!

Pls, no "that is not safe". I am looking for help. Not admonishment.

Plans that any fool (like me) can follow are VERY welcome. My budget is a tad stretched at the moment... but any ideas are welcome!

You might try a trolling motor foot switch. Not the kind on a foot controlled motor, but I know they used to sell them. A boat dealer could probably put you on the right path.