video: Certify Level 1

[JohnCoker]

I have put together a video showing how to choose a first HPR kit and some good practices and building techniques.
jcrocket.com/certify-level-1.shtml

 

[Lowpuller]

Dude, thank you for doing these, I always learn a ton.


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[Eyeguy41]

John,
You do a very nice job with these videos. They are educational and easy to follow and are a great resource for rocketeers.

I wish they were available when I first started out in rocketry. The forum has benefited greatly by your participation.

Thanks again,

Anthony

 

[Rex R]

one thing to remember about Cert birds is that the flyer needs to be able to show where the center of pressure is(also good idea for non cert birds too). Avery makes self stick dots (think they are for marking sale items)...they work nicely for marking the cp.
Rex

 

[wfcook]

Another awesome (and for me very timely) video, thanks!

Has anyone else noticed that john's voice, cadence, and inflection sound very much like John Malkovich?


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[JohnCoker]

Has anyone else noticed that john's voice, cadence, and inflection sound very much like John Malkovich?

LOL; I never heard that before!

By the way, I posted a YouTube playlist of this video, plus the videos it mentions, making a nice introduction to HPR for those interested in venturing into it.

 

[JohnCoker]

one thing to remember about Cert birds is that the flyer needs to be able to show where the center of pressure is(also good idea for non cert birds too). Avery makes self stick dots (think they are for marking sale items)...they work nicely for marking the cp.
Rex

Excellent point! I've updated the video to include measuring and marking the C.P (just before the end).

 

[JohnCoker]

This past weekend, I managed to attend a LUNAR launch and flew the LOC-IV.

 

[o1d_dude]

I was there and but when I heard the announcement over the PA I was half a mile downwind chasing a rocket. Figured the LOC IV being mentioned was the one from the video.

You need to come out to Snow Ranch more than once every 15 years, John.

 

[JohnCoker]

You need to come out to Snow Ranch more than once every 15 years, John.

True enough; it was great to come out again, although all the grass was a little unnerving.

 

[ThirstyBarbarian]

John, you did a great job with that video! It was very informative, and I'll try practicing some of those techniques as I build some of the Estes PSII kits I recently bought. Now that I've seen it done, I'd like to build something like the LOC IV with a 4" airframe. It actually looks easier than building smaller rockets, because you can get your hand in there.

One thing you did not show that I am wondering about is how do you glue in the blocks for the rail buttons? What is the technique for getting the block inside the airframe properly aligned so that the hole in the block aligns with the hole in the airframe? I've never used rail buttons, and that is something I've wondered about.

Thanks for making these videos. I'm going to check out some of the others you've made too.

 

[JohnCoker]

One thing you did not show that I am wondering about is how do you glue in the blocks for the rail buttons? What is the technique for getting the block inside the airframe properly aligned so that the hole in the block aligns with the hole in the airframe? I've never used rail buttons, and that is something I've wondered about.

What I do is use a block with a thickness that leaves the T-nut barrel protruding from the inside surface, which helps keep epoxy out of the threads by bridging the space between the surface of the block and the curvature of the tube. When installing, I mount the block with a screw through the airframe (as though it were the rail button) to hold it in place.

I leave this screw in up to the final coat of paint, to keep primer and sanding dust out of the threads.

By the way, I also recommend using better quality T-nuts, or at least verify the threads before you install them. (Gotta be careful with parts that are bonded in and not easily maintainable.) You can always chase the threads out with a tap, but it doesn't inspire confidence in the hardware if you have to.

 

[ThirstyBarbarian]

What I do is use a block with a thickness that leaves the T-nut barrel protruding from the inside surface, which helps keep epoxy out of the threads by bridging the space between the surface of the block and the curvature of the tube. When installing, I mount the block with a screw through the airframe (as though it were the rail button) to hold it in place.

I leave this screw in up to the final coat of paint, to keep primer and sanding dust out of the threads.

By the way, I also recommend using better quality T-nuts, or at least verify the threads before you install them. (Gotta be careful with parts that are bonded in and not easily maintainable.) You can always chase the threads out with a tap, but it doesn't inspire confidence in the hardware if you have to.

That all makes sense. Thanks!