3D Printing Vase mode for small nosecones?

[augendoc]

I’m printing a bunch of BT-20 sized conical nosecones for a semi-scale Minotaur clone. The original balsa cones weigh about 1 gm each, unfinished. Standard super-PLA+ with about a 1mm wall thickness weighs about 2 gms. I set PrusaSlicer to random seams, which just scatters the seam blobs randomly all over the surface. I set the slicer to vase mode, which eliminated the blobs and the print quality is pretty outstanding on my Prusa Mk4. The vase mode cone weighs only about 0.75gm. However, vase mode generates only a single layer spiral.

I’m concerned about weakness with vase mode, especially if I print a larger size cone. The BT 20Y is small and seems pretty sturdy, though I might put a drop of epoxy in the tip for some strength when I sand it.

Does anyone have any advice about recommended wall thicknesses for nose cones and how to get a smoother surface when using regular (non-vase)?

Thanks.

 

[SolarYellow]

Not really helpful for your situation, but small rockets is why I like resin printing.

 

[Bravo52]

Based on orientation, you'll be hard pressed to get a smoother finish. I assume you are using a lower layer height but you could try a .07mm layer height with a +5C higher temp and slow the speed down.

 

[Bravo52]

Not really helpful for your situation, but small rockets is why I like resin printing.

This.

I use a mixed resin of standard Anycubic 2.0 and Siraya Tech Tenacious to make it withstand the bounce a little...

​

 

[SolarYellow]

This.

I use a mixed resin of standard Anycubic 2.0 and Siraya Tech Tenacious to make it withstand the bounce a little...

Thanks for that comment. I've recently had an idea for rear-eject recovery that will have the rocket coming down nose first very consistently. Good idea to make the NC a little bit resilient. Watch me get into paint flexibilizers...

 

[augendoc]

Based on orientation, you'll be hard pressed to get a smoother finish. I assume you are using a lower layer height but you could try a .07mm layer height with a +5C higher temp and slow the speed down.

Thanks, I'll try that.

 

[thzero]

Thanks for that comment. I've recently had an idea for rear-eject recovery that will have the rocket coming down nose first very consistently. Good idea to make the NC a little bit resilient. Watch me get into paint flexibilizers...

Search for my Stinger 3d printed rocket.

Of course depends, as everything, what surface and speed it comes down at

 

[thzero]

I’m printing a bunch of BT-20 sized conical nosecones for a semi-scale Minotaur clone. The original balsa cones weigh about 1 gm each, unfinished. Standard super-PLA+ with about a 1mm wall thickness weighs about 2 gms. I set PrusaSlicer to random seams, which just scatters the seam blobs randomly all over the surface. I set the slicer to vase mode, which eliminated the blobs and the print quality is pretty outstanding on my Prusa Mk4. The vase mode cone weighs only about 0.75gm. However, vase mode generates only a single layer spiral.

I’m concerned about weakness with vase mode, especially if I print a larger size cone. The BT 20Y is small and seems pretty sturdy, though I might put a drop of epoxy in the tip for some strength when I sand it.

Does anyone have any advice about recommended wall thicknesses for nose cones and how to get a smoother surface when using regular (non-vase)?

Thanks.

A light coat of epoxy? Then sand. Otherwise what bravo said

Otherwise

 

[Kelly]

There's ways to use vase mode and still get cones that are thicker, or even ones that have inner and outer walls separated by webs. See for an intro.

 

[bad_idea]

There's ways to use vase mode and still get cones that are thicker, or even ones that have inner and outer walls separated by webs. See for an intro.

Interesting. Have you (or anyone else here) tried this? What becomes of the seam mentioned in the video?

 

[Kelly]

I've played with it a bit. I'm not sure what seam you're talking about (don't have time to watch the vid again) - you mean, where the ribs are? I don't recall having any extreme bumps there, and as with any seams, they can be sanded or sliced off.

 

[bad_idea]

I've played with it a bit. I'm not sure what seam you're talking about (don't have time to watch the vid again) - you mean, where the ribs are?

He actually leaves a full gap in the exterior surface at one point so that the path taken by the print head has no interruptions. That leaves a seam on one side of the print, though it's so small, it seems to have closed over in the examples he shows.

 

[Kelly]

Yes - there are many gaps in the design, but all of these gaps are designed to be so small that they close up during printing - the gap in the outer wall, and the gap in the ribs, all close up.

 

[Leo]

I’m printing a bunch of BT-20 sized conical nosecones for a semi-scale Minotaur clone. The original balsa cones weigh about 1 gm each, unfinished. Standard super-PLA+ with about a 1mm wall thickness weighs about 2 gms. I set PrusaSlicer to random seams, which just scatters the seam blobs randomly all over the surface. I set the slicer to vase mode, which eliminated the blobs and the print quality is pretty outstanding on my Prusa Mk4. The vase mode cone weighs only about 0.75gm. However, vase mode generates only a single layer spiral.

I’m concerned about weakness with vase mode, especially if I print a larger size cone. The BT 20Y is small and seems pretty sturdy, though I might put a drop of epoxy in the tip for some strength when I sand it.

Does anyone have any advice about recommended wall thicknesses for nose cones and how to get a smoother surface when using regular (non-vase)?

Thanks.

I have been printing rockets / rocket parts in vase mode for years. You need not worry about weakness if you pay attention to certain design details. You want to always try to keep the wall thickness constant e.g. transitions from one diameter to another different diameter.
For reference, here is just one example of a complete model rocket printed in vase mode with standard PLA. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3232768

 

[augendoc]

Your Nike Smoke is an outstanding piece of work. Thank you!

 

[SmurfTacoSupreme]

Note that even with a .4mm nozzle you can get thicker walls in vase mode by setting the extrusion width to .9mm. I started doing this with collapsible swords (explained here) and now do the same with nose cones. If you toss in a larger nozzle you can go even wider.

Another option is to fill the nose cone with foam which makes it extra skookum.

 

[augendoc]

I tried this last night with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height, and setting extrusion width to 0.9mm. I printed a bunch of small cones to use for decorative SRB nozzles in a Minotaur clone-ish build. This worked REALLY WELL!!! Definite vase mode, so no seams or random stops-starts, and a nice, tough wall thickness. Way better than what I had gotten with a 0.45 thickness. This will now be my go-to technique for these kinds of parts.

Thank you for sharing!

 

[thzero]

I tried this last night with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height, and setting extrusion width to 0.9mm. I printed a bunch of small cones to use for decorative SRB nozzles in a Minotaur clone-ish build. This worked REALLY WELL!!! Definite vase mode, so no seams or random stops-starts, and a nice, tough wall thickness. Way better than what I had gotten with a 0.45 thickness. This will now be my go-to technique for these kinds of parts.

Thank you for sharing!

I'll have to try it. Biggest issues I found is when I had either holes (for bolts, screws, etc) in the walls or protusions