Much appreciated...Chris Michielssen's build posts may be of some help, especially the tiny decals:
Model Rocket Building: Estes Saturn 1B, #7251 Build, Part 32, Decals!
Model Rocket Building: Estes Saturn 1B, #7251 Build, Part 33, More Decals
Much appreciated...Chris Michielssen's build posts may be of some help, especially the tiny decals:
Model Rocket Building: Estes Saturn 1B, #7251 Build, Part 32, Decals!
Model Rocket Building: Estes Saturn 1B, #7251 Build, Part 33, More Decals
I just remembered this thread:Still trying to figure out where all the decals go that aren’t in the instructions.
Nah, was only there for 4 days helping the older son move back. Believe it or not, it was 80F and cloudless sky.I just remembered this thread:
New Estes Saturn1B Decal placement error? | The Rocketry Forum
There are some errors in the instructions so follow Raptor2's diagram.
Still on the mainland?
Any suggestions for names?
I promise not to comment on the nose cone color.My latest scratch creation. The BT is from a somewhat crushed Estes MR. They sent me a replacement tube. I patched this one. It’s only 14.5” because I used some of it for the Biohazard. I “whittled” down the BT-70 NC to fit. This is the first time using gold paint. Any suggestions for names?
The grass is rather soft so only need to cut off about half an inch.Sorry to hear about the Checkmate. I've taken to making sure (with a 3/32 inch drill bit in a wooden handle) that the sustainer motor does NOT have the propellant blocked by leftover clay from the nozzle formation when making up a pair of motors for my Checkmate after having had this happen, I think, three times in the life of two of them. When flying at Sixty Acres in the winter this is survivable, but over a harder surface, not so much. Having the second stage not light when flying over a hard surface (just after I'd done a rebuild) is what finished off my first Checkmate.
SpartanMy latest scratch creation. The BT is from a somewhat crushed Estes MR. They sent me a replacement tube. I patched this one. It’s only 14.5” because I used some of it for the Biohazard. I “whittled” down the BT-70 NC to fit. This is the first time using gold paint. Any suggestions for names?
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If you haven't already cut it off, an alternative is to just straighten it out as best you can (using the nose cone shoulder to help with that process) then flow a little thin CA into the remaining wrinkles/creases to stabilize them. Not quite as pretty, but quick and easy.
Only about 1/4” I had to take off...If you haven't already cut it off, an alternative is to just straighten it out as best you can (using the nose cone shoulder to help with that process) then flow a little thin CA into the remaining wrinkles/creases to stabilize them. Not quite as pretty, but quick and easy.
You know what, I forgot to tape them. Maybe that and the small nozzles...Since Checkmate is direct staged—with the motors taped together—venting isn't going to help. As I mentioned before, this sort of failure happens when there's a little bit of clay up in the nozzle of the sustainer motor. It needs to be checked for and carefully cleaned out. Also, the nozzle on an A3-4T (or 1/2A3-4T) is pretty tiny. That makes it a little harder to get it lit.
My Checkmate is in the face card scheme - yellow with one blue fin. Even then the booster can be hard to find in the grass....
In sustainers, I like A10-3T for 13 mm, A8-3 or A8-5 for 18 mm, D12-5 or D12-7 for 24mm (never used a 24 mm C so don’t know about the nozzle size) BECAUSE of the big nozzles. I haven’t had any problems with sustainers not igniting for the most part, but @BEC idea of gently scraping the apex of the nozzle can’t hurt.You know what, I forgot to tape them. Maybe that and the small nozzles...
In sustainers, I like A10-3T for 13 mm, A8-3 or A8-5 for 18 mm, D12-5 or D12-7 for 24mm (never used a 24 mm C so don’t know about the nozzle size) BECAUSE of the big nozzles. I haven’t had any problems with sustainers not igniting for the most part, but @BEC idea of gently scraping the apex of the nozzle can’t hurt.
The thing is, the Checkmate could really use an A3-5T for the sustainer, when flown off an A10-0T booster anyway. Four seconds is enough delay for the top stage if the booster is an OOP 1/2A3-0T.In sustainers, I like A10-3T for 13 mm, A8-3 or A8-5 for 18 mm, D12-5 or D12-7 for 24mm (never used a 24 mm C so don’t know about the nozzle size) BECAUSE of the big nozzles. I haven’t had any problems with sustainers not igniting for the most part, but @BEC idea of gently scraping the apex of the nozzle can’t hurt.
Now I understand what you’re talking about.The thing is, the Checkmate could really use an A3-5T for the sustainer, when flown off an A10-0T booster anyway. Four seconds is enough delay for the top stage if the booster is an OOP 1/2A3-0T.
I have a set of drill bits with nice wooden handles that I got from the late lamented Ace R/C probably 40 years ago now. I use the 3/32 inch bit from this set to gently drill into the throat of the nozzle of an A3-4T just a little. Then I shake the residue out in my palm. If the residue is black, then I'm ready to tape the motors together for the Checkmate.
C11s have a slightly smaller nozzle than D12s.
As all JB rockets probably do...John Boren gave my wife a Hex-3 at NSL in Alamogordo, NM in 2017. It's a hoot to fly and hers flies straighter than some I've seen .
I inserted the initiators to the black heat shrink so I believe so. Definitely not as dramatic as an Estes cato...You guys are nuts.
Good day for draggy low flying odd rocs.
The Hex 3 stuck the landing nicely.
On the QJet catos, did you did stick the igniter all the way up to the front?
Gonna ask Mike if he wants to resume flying at Sandy's as soon as the wind dies down.
BTW I think he may originally be from Washington state too.
Laters.
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