SBR Fusion LDRS 40

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I wonder why he doesn't use standard nose cones in his kits. I mean that looks like a simple 4:1 nose cone. Maybe it's cheaper to do a printed nose despite it not being as structurally sound as a molded nose?
 
I wonder why he doesn't use standard nose cones in his kits. I mean that looks like a simple 4:1 nose cone. Maybe it's cheaper to do a printed nose despite it not being as structurally sound as a molded nose?


Hadn't noticed that. Mine came with a standard LOC style molded nosecone
 
I wonder why he doesn't use standard nose cones in his kits. I mean that looks like a simple 4:1 nose cone. Maybe it's cheaper to do a printed nose despite it not being as structurally sound as a molded nose?
Maybe you should ask SBR the question. No answer here we would be all guessing.
 
I wonder why he doesn't use standard nose cones in his kits. I mean that looks like a simple 4:1 nose cone. Maybe it's cheaper to do a printed nose despite it not being as structurally sound as a molded nose?
Not sure… i found that on the Honest John and the Nike Smoke as well. Overall, Scott’s rockets are TANKS!
 
I wonder why he doesn't use standard nose cones in his kits. I mean that looks like a simple 4:1 nose cone. Maybe it's cheaper to do a printed nose despite it not being as structurally sound as a molded nose?

I changed my nosecone out for a PML plastic nosecone. I don’t much care for the 3D printed variety.
 
We're changing most kits to the 3D printed cones - first off, that's been the plan for years - to make everything in-house, but recently, they were becoming hard to get from our supplier (claimed to be due to Covid), so we decided to make the switch.

Now, if you FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, they're as strong as blow-molded cones - maybe more brittle, but when coated inside and out with epoxy thinned with alcohol, or finishing resin, they work out to be great. We've been using them for years in our kits that require special shapes, like the Honest John, Scud, Omega, The Bomb, The Bullet, Nike Smoke... and I've printed them in everything from the Li'l Honest John, all the way up to a 7.5" main tube Honest John - and they're strong and look great. This particular design has been flown on up to K motors with the 3D-printed cone, with no problem.

Another advantage is that I've printed rings inside the cone parts that allow for bulkheads to be epoxied in further up into the cone - giving you more space for things like recovery gear or electronics payloads. This was not a move to make things cheaper - it was actually an improvement. Yes, a little more work for the modeler, but our kits aren't known for being quick and cheap. They require a little modeling experience, and it's nothing difficult.... And yes - they're now in the larger kits, as well, like the Thor and 4" Fusion. We still have some blow-molded cones for those who just can't roll with the change.... and we'll substitute, if necessary.

I coat them with West System 206/105, let them sit over night, then prime, fill with Bondo spot filler putty, sand, prime and paint. It's that simple. I know people have the expectation that when you 3D print a part, it's ready right off the printer to fly - that's not the intention with our parts. Treat them like a fiberglass part that requires finishing before it's ready to fly.

I need to make a video showing how it all works, maybe that'd help a bit....
 
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