Poll: Thinking ahead for my Level One - which rocket?

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Knowing what you know today, which rocket kit would you use for your Level One and why?

  • Apogee ZEPHYR

    Votes: 8 17.8%
  • Madcow 4" Super DX3

    Votes: 25 55.6%
  • LOC Precision Goblin

    Votes: 12 26.7%
  • Aerotech SUMO

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    45
The DX3 with the 54mm mount will allow for lots of future growth, and like others have mentioned, you can easily retrofit it for dual deploy, and you can also use it for a L2 cert in the future.

In the end, however, it all comes down to what do you want to build? Which of those rockets do you like? It is your rocket, after all!
That's what I did, 54mm motor mount DX3 which I then put in an adapter. I plan to do L1 and L2 on it if I ever get a chance to launch. We've been rained out pretty much all of Fall/Winter DARS launches ( Dallas TX )
 
I finally decided on the LOC Precision 4" Goblin. As a result of this purchase, I bought a couple more LOC kits and parts. Very nice quality kits . . . only lacking in instruction quality. It appears that they assume you've built lots of rockets before. I also purchased the Xeno, The Park Flyer HyperLoc 163, and a number of other LOC kits . . . very impressive quality. Having a great time building them . . . also purchased a Jolly Logic Chute Release and Altimeter 2 . . . .

Mark!
 
Tis true; once you begin the journey into higher powered rockets, build knowledge is brought with you, not provided for you, hence the lack of instruction. I agree, Loc has always provided a quality kit, one of the best in our small hobby. Looking forward to your build thread on your Goblin and your L1 flight report.
 
I also purchased a Binder Fusion w/Altimeter for my future Level 2 attempt. It looked like a great deal and the kits are very nicely put together. Materials, instructions, packaging, and design all seem certainly first rate. I'm very much look forward to starting on this one . . . but I'm wait for a successful level one completion before I do that!

Mark
 
Good thing you got the rocket before Fusion shut down upon Scott Binder's exit.

Dual deployment is a good learning project for L2. (It's totally feasible to do both 1 and 2 on that rocket if desired, I just like to suggest having separate rockets with separate learning outcomes for the levels instead of building one rocket and flying it twice)
 
Good thing you got the rocket before Fusion shut down upon Scott Binder's exit.

Dual deployment is a good learning project for L2. (It's totally feasible to do both 1 and 2 on that rocket if desired, I just like to suggest having separate rockets with separate learning outcomes for the levels instead of building one rocket and flying it twice)

My thoughts were that I am going to do my level one w/the Goblin utilizing a JLPR system, which is a good intro to on-board electronics while still keeping it simple. The only puzzle going through my mind is release altitude. Perhaps I should make a couple of lower power launches to figure out how quickly the parachute deploys? Not sure. I'd like it as low as possible . . . but not too low! Graduate to the Fusion for Level 2 . . . I can certainly enjoy some payload room with that rocket. Put a go pro, Altimeter 2 and the Dual Deploy Altitude . . . Just a thought . . . Oh, and Scott did say he's still going to do Rocketry and help out customers with his rockets that are out there . . . he's justifiably keeping his time more relaxed . . .

Mark
 
I've seen them mentioned a couple of times . . . don't know much about them . . . but their kits look very nice! Perhaps I'll sample one soon.

Mark

I did my L2 on a MAC Performance 4" ARCAS, and love his kits. I was so impressed with the canvas phenolic that I used his tubes for my scratch built Aerobee 150. I will strongly recommend MAC to anyone, and will be buying more of his products!
 
I did my L2 on a MAC Performance 4" ARCAS, and love his kits. I was so impressed with the canvas phenolic that I used his tubes for my scratch built Aerobee 150. I will strongly recommend MAC to anyone, and will be buying more of his products!
Chris,
What is 'Canvas Phenolic'? I'm assuming its easier to work with than Fibreglass/Carbon Fibre but tougher than paper tubing or? How is this material better or?

Thanks!

Mark
 
+1 on MAC kits I have quite a few and they may not be the cheapest but are by far the best quality of any kits sold right now imo.
Yes its much easier to work with then fiberglass, not as light but again in my opnion just as if not stronger then fiberglass and will do mach+ with out doing anything to it.
Mac has alot of smaller rockets perfect for L1 like the scorpion 54mm or you could build almost any of the 3' kits and do your L1 and L2 with same rocket.
 
+1 on MAC kits I have quite a few and they may not be the cheapest but are by far the best quality of any kits sold right now imo.
Yes its much easier to work with then fiberglass, not as light but again in my opnion just as if not stronger then fiberglass and will do mach+ with out doing anything to it.
Mac has alot of smaller rockets perfect for L1 like the scorpion 54mm or you could build almost any of the 3' kits and do your L1 and L2 with same rocket.

Isnt Canvas Phenolic lighter than fiberglass? Mike told me in correspondance he used blue tube as the tube material in openrocket for similar density.
 
Isnt Canvas Phenolic lighter than fiberglass? Mike told me in correspondance he used blue tube as the tube material in openrocket for similar density.
Correct. Canvas phenolic is lighter than fiberglass. It is extremely strong, but not as strong as fiberglass. It is also more brittle. It adheres to epoxy very strongly, and it takes paint very well, as it is slightly absorbent. Despite this, it is not prone to water damage, so ditch landings are a non-issue.
 
Correct. Canvas phenolic is lighter than fiberglass. It is extremely strong, but not as strong as fiberglass. It is also more brittle. It adheres to epoxy very strongly, and it takes paint very well, as it is slightly absorbent. Despite this, it is not prone to water damage, so ditch landings are a non-issue.
Are there any rocketry specific preparation and painting instructions around? I did a cursory look and couldn't find any. Can you use rattle cans to good effect or can HVLP (sp?) painting be done?

Thanks!

Mark
 
Are there any rocketry specific preparation and painting instructions around? I did a cursory look and couldn't find any. Can you use rattle cans to good effect or can HVLP (sp?) painting be done?

Thanks!

Mark
I'm not a paint guy, but there are lots of techniques represented in our community. Look for threads by user Nathan. He paints and polishes his rockets to the point where they are like mirrors.

Some people will recommend paint sprayers, other use rattle cans. Then there are people who just slap on some latex with a brush.

It all depends on what look you are going for, and how much time and money you want to put into it.

Some examples:

Brush painted
Qd5q5ZQ555WWwKzY3NhmDhYnIoPoMJ-00PD14mokiy8mOYabrM8lqaKuHHuh5tgbghIch9L-pMBjrS44t1f7zqMpdz9KNFx1urA4XHZhk3MJYUSdkh9TiJfi_WTjczWBpbYzE_dIue3w76ptnZ7CjA4QV3W4p40dwAs5udvrVYUemyfoFkLPJvKHAJBuOyn_FVNJZFewWbRrFWEJH8yaEOit1M2sHlGoPYyiQdOsUPHzU3xloZJzDEPQo4tv5uTRMG4RnHrPaOYIQ3m77uJ2InBbebUaR2-nvA9XcuPTLs06OMpud7eWKtJgqh4QESeUj-AwZSD9HdEc_FWbBhCCwbREuuAYtno-k8sAWfWh1-X8uelPdZ_opGUvFBzefwpYT52rA7dgl0vn5REg0YAGezwr-NHukYTJoxrs9M5GdVfmog7God-EtFxFPi6EECL7X5kgRjPPeujQX24r4QTyG9orsalFne5dop6n-2PJgqgSWhWin6n0aOKliUk-MkC1ETC_TeCuO7L_CCvMofl3EsWeVuEzBeJ0mLzGUhLZyv5myZt_GSnJoQ96kTlGHAanonpS-rjuo3PVtcx1R2rDPapjSkeGGBrgq9JC3vBwWZxvEBjofCuiVArjGI5Y1z18dJv1OGGoIDUQfuGgMIp4B4_9hWcqRn4=w699-h932-no


Vinyl wrap (no paint on this rocket at all)
upload_2019-2-14_9-58-6.jpeg

One of Nathan's mirror finishes
42817060182_5cb4148bf7_o.jpg
 
Are there any rocketry specific preparation and painting instructions around? I did a cursory look and couldn't find any. Can you use rattle cans to good effect or can HVLP (sp?) painting be done?

Thanks!

Mark

There should be some around.. try the 'techniques' forum..

Prep for a proper paint job. You need a good base; primer. 1-4 coats, with 2 being about right, with a sanding in between. Most then use a rattle can (Krylon and Rustoleum are the popular ones, with Duplicolor a close 3rd..) and follow the directions. Mask as needed, then add decals. Then some will apply a clear coat or polish (Acrylic floor polish)..

Some have fancy airbrush, touch up guns & such and do some super work. Some have even brushed on acrylic paints.. Some have used Monokote / Ultracote, and some even use sticky vinyl (what signs are now made of..)

I was a Krylon guy, but have switched to Rustoleunm. 2 or 3 coats of primer, sanding in between (1st layer just about sanded away! to fill dents & seams). Then 2-3 coats of colour.. Decals, a photo.. And then let 'er rip!
 
Canvas has interested me since I heard of it. I'll be using it to make a PAC-3 MSE to scale with my 4" PAC-2, and probably a Blue Tube PAC-3 CRI.

Nathan's paintjobs are great, although pretty intimidating for a beginner
 
Correct. Canvas phenolic is lighter than fiberglass. It is extremely strong, but not as strong as fiberglass. It is also more brittle. It adheres to epoxy very strongly, and it takes paint very well, as it is slightly absorbent. Despite this, it is not prone to water damage, so ditch landings are a non-issue.
See I learned something it is lighter :)
And I hate Nathans paint jobs! just because he makes mine look like a 5 year old did it :( But really if you want the best of the best guide look his up there is no painter better. Im a raddle can - looks good from the pad kind of person.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top