More advanced shop tools?

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I make straight cuts, round cuts, curvy cuts, whatever is needed. Then again, I didn't have to buy mine as it came out of my father-in-law's barn. But it is now indispensible to me.
 
I've had the drill press, band saw, rotary tool and bench sander for a while now and, so far, what I've used most are the band saw and the rotary tool.
I use the band saw to cut tubes to length, cut the shoulders off nose cones and transitions, and cut fin tabs to length.
I was wondering if anyone uses a scroll saw?
I was thinking it might speed up fin making, but I'm concerned it would tear the balsa to pieces.
I could layer the balsa between something else, like particle board, but that seems pretty wasteful.
Which band saw did you buy? How do you like it? I have an old 3 wheel Duracraft band saw that I bought used ( $15) that keeps breaking blades, and I’m looking to upgrade…
 
Finally got the thing, Total Shop is the name on mine, it was also sold as a Sakura, but the newest version is sold by PS Wood:
https://www.pswood.com/21-scroll-saw-includes-stand-quick-change-2-dz-blades-more/
So this is what model it is, a 21" model, came with casters and a foot switch. The PS Wood saw is now $800, so I felt good at spending $80 for mine. It was missing the speed changing belt, so I went to the PS Wood site since they sell all the spare parts and got one for $9.00 but I also ordered a variety pack of blades which should last me the rest of my limited lifespan. It's supposed to be 74 degrees on Saturday so I'll spit-shine it then.
H0lBSFl.jpg
 
Nice find. I have used a Bandsaw, but never that large of a scrollsaw. I think my dad had a small one.
 
Finally got the thing, Total Shop is the name on mine, it was also sold as a Sakura, but the newest version is sold by PS Wood:
https://www.pswood.com/21-scroll-saw-includes-stand-quick-change-2-dz-blades-more/
So this is what model it is, a 21" model, came with casters and a foot switch. The PS Wood saw is now $800, so I felt good at spending $80 for mine. It was missing the speed changing belt, so I went to the PS Wood site since they sell all the spare parts and got one for $9.00 but I also ordered a variety pack of blades which should last me the rest of my limited lifespan. It's supposed to be 74 degrees on Saturday so I'll spit-shine it then.
H0lBSFl.jpg

Scroll saws are fun and can do a lot of neat things. As with all tools (IMO only) a great blade (or bit, cutter etc., depending on the tool) can make a junk tool decent, while a junk blade (cutter etc.) can make a great tool useless.

One thing we like in rocketry at times are straight cuts (fins, for example) and there are plenty of blades out there that will never cut a straight line. The first time I tried to cut a straight line on my scroll saw it was terrible. I decided to makeshift a fence so it would work better and the result was WORSE!!!! Scroll blades are generally designed to allow for amazingly tight curves to be cut, so it is actually easier to cut a circle than a straight line.

I don't remember the exact method I found to do better, but I do remember one step was to load a blade and run a similar piece of scrap through it and see where the saw pulled the material. Once you see how it naturally cuts, you can pre-plan how you're going to make that a straight line. You almost feed at a little of a diagonal to get a straight cut. I *believe* there are blades that are a bit thicker and might have a neutral tooth-set which will make cutting straight lines easier, but don't quote me on that. I haven't used the scroll much after getting a laser. . .

Either way, you're set for doing centering rings and unique pattern fins for sure. If you're trying to cut straight and aren't getting good results, google around a bit and you'll find videos that help you get there quickly. IMO, adding a fence is a bad idea. I could freehand straight lines after I figured out the diagonal trick better than a fence ever did. I'm no expert, so if anyone disagrees, please post their methods to help more than I have.

Nice looking saw, BTW.

Sandy.
 
Not the videos I found years ago, but that's the principle I learned from other searches. Sounds like you are well prepped for straight and curves once your parts get there.

Sandy.
 
I watched more YouTube videos on scroll sawing by Mustache Mike. I did find a Delta drill press today on Marketplace, but they want $125 for it, but it has a really great looking table that goes over the stock one. So it kind of locks all of your wood in without having to have a vice
 
Either way, you're set for doing centering rings....

If you're cutting centering rings for rockets 5" in diameter or less... the most cost effective option is an Adjustable Circle Hole Cutter. And it's less than $8. It ensures concentricity.

Works great on a tabletop drill press that holds a hand drill.

1639577445147.png
 
If you're cutting centering rings for rockets 5" in diameter or less... the most cost effective option is an Adjustable Circle Hole Cutter. And it's less than $8. It ensures concentricity.

Works great on a tabletop drill press that holds a hand drill.

View attachment 494457

For the love of all that you hold holy and dear, make damn sure that every single fastener on those things are as tight as you can make them without damage to the tool. I have a pretty pricey version of this tool, but even still, there's a hole in the side of my garage where one of the cutter holders flew off, went through the drywall, insulation, outer ply sheeting, and lodged in the siding. I've had another incident where it flew off, ricocheted off of my bench, and hit me in the leg......inches away from the jewels, and left a bruise the size of my fist. Thankfully I had turned a little and the knife part wasn't facing direction of travel!

I've since changed over to a bandsaw for rouging in the outer diameter, a sanding jig for final rounding/sizing, and hole saws for rouging in the inner diameter and a spindle sander for final sizing the inner hole.
 
For the love of all that you hold holy and dear, make damn sure that every single fastener on those things are as tight as you can make them without damage to the tool. I have a pretty pricey version of this tool, but even still, there's a hole in the side of my garage where one of the cutter holders flew off, went through the drywall, insulation, outer ply sheeting, and lodged in the siding. I've had another incident where it flew off, ricocheted off of my bench, and hit me in the leg......inches away from the jewels, and left a bruise the size of my fist. Thankfully I had turned a little and the knife part wasn't facing direction of travel!

I've since changed over to a bandsaw for rouging in the outer diameter, a sanding jig for final rounding/sizing, and hole saws for rouging in the inner diameter and a spindle sander for final sizing the inner hole.

User error. The cutting speed for wood should be really, really slow. But, sure, always ensure that the set screws are tight. No need though for high rpm's though.
 
User error. The cutting speed for wood should be really, really slow. But, sure, always ensure that the set screws are tight. No need though for high rpm's though.

Learning curve, followed the directions that came with the tool. The one I have also doesn't have screws/washers as a stop on the ends of the bar as a safety device, either. Just making folks aware.
 
I'd put retainers on any fly cutter that doesn't have them. Usually should just be a drill-n-tap on each end of the bar. The setscrews on the moveable sliders are often not properly designed; don't count on them staying secure with vibration even if they start really snug.
 
The foot switch on my scroll saw has a Sakura decal on it. I knew that Total Shop, and Sakura, and PS Wood, were all made by the same company, but I didn't think that they were going to have a Sakura foot switch sold with a Total Shop saw.
 
User error. The cutting speed for wood should be really, really slow. But, sure, always ensure that the set screws are tight. No need though for high rpm's though.
On the other hand, I have over tightened the set screw and stripped the threads. I’m on my third fly cutter now and am really careful about the set up. (I didn’t get a chance to break the second, it was bent when I got it.)
Agree with the rpm’s, low as it will go!!
 
I've had the drill press, band saw, rotary tool and bench sander for a while now and, so far, what I've used most are the band saw and the rotary tool.
I use the band saw to cut tubes to length, cut the shoulders off nose cones and transitions, and cut fin tabs to length.
I was wondering if anyone uses a scroll saw?
I was thinking it might speed up fin making, but I'm concerned it would tear the balsa to pieces.
I could layer the balsa between something else, like particle board, but that seems pretty wasteful.
I am of the belief that the older the scroll saw, the better. Mine is from the early 1930’s and runs like new! Delta model 700.
There are even parts floating around for it on eBay, should anything go wrong...
 
I've received my order from PS Wood today that has the nice assortment of different scroll saw blades. I now have enough to last me the rest of this life.
 
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