Masking Tape

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Peartree said:
Everyone please take a deep breath and count to ten...
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I think folks are just tired of being treated like idiots and spoken to in a condescending manor. Apparently, I am not the only one who reads it that way.:rolleyes:
 
Well guys:
Good Grief: Arrogance, Condescension, Treated like idoits?

Sometimes the turth hurts doesn't it...... If your relying on tape, ANY tape to prevent underwicking on your models...or anything else for that mater! your not going to be happy with the outcome very often.

Not Arrogance, but CONFIDENCE in Proven Methods drive my presentations and comments. NO insults are intended, but I'm not about to just sit by and let disinformation be spread without comment.
NO Condescension ment Lee; but if no one bothers to give you the benifit of experineced knowledge learned, you'll never know there are more reliable way to get to the desired results.

NO TAPE, Mask or mask application is going to give the desired effect if it isn't sealed.

Your objection to years of proven method is just a little silly. If you don't like advise or instruction being give don't use it. but don't dis something simply because you don't understand. I don't claim to have all the answers but; The ones I do have I'm not afraid to share and/or defend. If I somehow came off as insulting you for suggesting a certain "brand" tape as the answer, I'm am sorry you feel that way but to be perfectly honest your base assumption is simply incorrect. Not ment as in insult, simply a correction.

Like others;I do sometimes forget this is the NEW TRF and most of the previously posted methods have been lost. To that end I'll again invite those interested in model finishing to visit the Narhams.org website library section looking at Tech-Tips 002-005 on finishing. These writings will take you from bare wood and tube to babies butt smooth finishes. Including hand painting and multi color finishes. They are presented there for EVERYONE's free download and use.



Foose:
I wasn't very pleased with your tone either my friend! You ask a rather snied question asking for enlightenment, knowing full well the answer. Messing with the bull, one generally gets the horns.

Turely folks; I'm not trying to argue, just get good solid Working solutions out that everyone can use. Ego has NOTHING to do with any of this. Lets just give the information and let folks use it to better their finishes.
If you don't agree;fine... Let just not argue about trash that doesn't make any difference to the next building reader.
 
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John, I didn't know the answer, else I wouldn't have asked.

Yep. you got me. Truth hurts. Firstly(before anyone took a "tone"), you went on a rant about "how easily we are led" (which I found insulting) by using Tamiya product, then told us about a cheaper alternative/substitute which you provided no details about. I think part #'s and a source or two would have been very useful, yet, you took offense to me asking. Asking for enlightenment is hardly taking a "tone", but if you feel the need to bring up a product that might benefit everyone, don't you think folks would like more info than what you provided? A picture of several rolls of tape isn't very useful at all. All that picture says is, "Hey, look what I got! Good luck getting your own." You know as well as I do, 3M has more #'s than a Chinese phone book. Don't get a 'tude if someone is asking for clarification or ask you to repeat some info that could benefit the whole class.

You have methods that work for you. They may work for everyone...fine. But, don't assume your way is the only way. Lots of us can see a clear difference between using Tamiya tape and anything else, methods or technique not withstanding. Whether you choose to accept that or not is your business.
 
foose4string said:
John, I didn't know the answer, else I wouldn't have asked.

Yep. you got me. Truth hurts. Firstly(before anyone took a "tone"), you went on a rant about "how easily we are led" (which I found insulting) by using Tamiya product, then told us about a cheaper alternative/substitute which you provided no details about. I think part #'s and a source or two would have been very useful, yet, you took offense to me asking. Asking for enlightenment is hardly taking a "tone", but if you feel the need to bring up a product that might benefit everyone, don't you think folks would like more info than what you provided? A picture of several rolls of tape isn't very useful at all. All that picture says is, "Hey, look what I got! Good luck getting your own." You know as well as I do, 3M has more #'s than a Chinese phone book. Don't get a 'tude if someone is asking for clarification or ask you to repeat some info that could benefit the whole class.

You have methods that work for you. They may work for everyone...fine. But, don't assume your way is the only way. Lots of us can see a clear difference between using Tamiya tape and anything else, methods or technique not withstanding. Whether you choose to accept that or not is your business.
Click to expand...

No rant! I simply stated the fact that your getting ripped off but good buying Tamiya tape and went on to give several other material that can be used. Stock numbers change, and not everyone buys in the same area. That information is often more misleading then having everyone look for the product line by name themselves, I still answered your question, tho you for some reason chose to ignor it yet again.
My comment wasn't ment as an insult to anyone other then Tamiya. Who's paints I use on occasion, just not the tape. There is simply no reason of be so thin skinned.
Please show me one time I've told anyone, anywhere that my way is the only way. I can't recall a single time i've made any mention that any way or means suggested is the only way to do anything, that's your runaway imagination again trying to read way to much into things than are really there.

I really hate reading all the boo-hooing about this failure or that because of mis-leading, misinformed or down right mistaken information, that could so easily have been avoided by proper prep and proceedure. I start off just about every tech-tip by saying ANYONE CAN learn to do "whatever".
As new product come out or Old products change we have to Re-learn, adjust and re-examine our proceedures, and methods to ensure they are still correct for the purpose. We all are supposed to learn something new everyday. But with that I'll state one more time for the record... Tape; ANY of the worlds most expensive tapes are NOT the answer to any masking job. It is the method by which they are applied and sealed.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
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Micromeister said:
I still answered your question, tho you for some reason chose to ignor it yet again.
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Didn't ignore it. Matter of fact, I even thanked you for repeating it(which you acted like it such a chore to do BTW)(see post #26).
 
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Foose, I gotta say, whatever methods, tapes, paints or whatever you use... Keep doing it! I have seen your work and it is definately amongst the best I have seen.
 
Last posts by luke strawwalker *EDITED* or *PULLED* because this argument is DONE. Please no piling on.

Says me.

No arguments or cries of censorship, please.
 
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:rolleyes: Read your PM... OL JR :)

[Personal attacks against moderators via Private Message is not a good way to express your dissatisfaction. The same rules apply to PMs as in public. Enjoy your infraction - RangerStl]
 
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Thanks Scott. Thanks Micro.

Unfotunately, this discussion turned for the worse which I can say for certain was not the intention of either Micro or myself. Some of us are just a little passionate about a product, method, what have you... eh Micro? No foul here. I don't hold grudges. I'm quite sure we'll see each other at a launch laugh at how silly this all is. Both of us are big boys and don't need to be baby sitted.

So back on topic. The OP asked:

"Can anyone give me some recommendations regarding what tape to use?";)
 
foose4string said:
Thanks Scott. Thanks Micro.

Unfotunately, this discussion turned for the worse which I can say for certain was not the intention of either Micro or myself. Some of us are just a little passionate about a product, method, what have you... eh Micro? No foul here. I don't hold grudges. I'm quite sure we'll see each other at a launch laugh at how silly this all is. Both of us are big boys and don't need to be baby sitted.

So back on topic. The OP asked:

"Can anyone give me some recommendations regarding what tape to use?";)
Click to expand...

Ditto:
Simply trying to give all the options.

As H_rocket just said the sticky type:) Can't stress enough no matter which type, brand or tac used it must be burnished down well just before applying anything, clear or color. but sealing those edges, particularly on curved surfaces and in creases and corner is critical. if your finger won't get in there then a rounded dowel, or pentip will.
 
I have used many tapes all with mixed results. So far the Tamiya works best for me. I would LOVE to find a cheaper alternative. Thanks to Tony for the link, that helps with the cost somewhat.

With all the tapes I use I first unroll what I think I'll need, then lay it on a clean glass pane, then I cut it with a new exacto #11 and a straight edge. After I apply it I burnish it with my fingers and then use my burnishing tool along the edge to be painted. This works well, but I still get the occasional glitch. Blue and green tapes work very good, but the Tamiya seems to work better. I will say that I have only used it on 2 rockets so far, but the clean, crisp line it produces is wonderful.

I'll try to find some of the 3M 6400 series tapes to try.
 
mach7 said:
I have used many tapes all with mixed results. So far the Tamiya works best for me. I would LOVE to find a cheaper alternative. Thanks to Tony for the link, that helps with the cost somewhat.

[...]
Click to expand...

I am at a point in my life that when I find something that works well, I stick with it (or in the case of tape, stick to it ...). It really is not a "extravagance", or " a wast of money", to pay more for something you have confidence with, if it gives you good results. Why chance a occasional failure, just to save some money? You then have not really saved any money. I'd rather consider this issue solved for me personally, and go tackle my next problem area in the hobby.

I'd argue the same point for someone that uses Brand "X" product, swears by it, and refuses to try my favorite Brand "Y". My advice is to find something you like, gives you consistent results, and standardize on that. It appears that "inconsistent" results are the biggest issue in this thread. I have found a consistent product for me, and hence the recommendation to "try it".

YMMV.
 
Trident said:
YMMV.
Click to expand...

Yes My Moms Visiting?

You Make Me Vommit?

Yes Miss Martha's Vineyard?

Yolanda Mangles Meat Viciously?

Im not farmiliar with that abbreviation:confused:

I will second Lee's statement... Use what works. I use strips of vinyl masking material. I guess I don't build enough to worry about the cost because a 14" x 36" piece has lasted me for several years!
 
One thing that I also try to remember to do when I am spraying on the second color is to go very light with the spray in the region near the masked edge. Since the second color is usually darker than the base, it doesn't take much to cover the base color and produce a nice strong contrast. I try to hit the model with just enough paint to give it that contrasting effect. This can really help to prevent seepage because a thin coat will dry quicker, which means that it will harden before it can seep under the tape. A heavier coat near the mask line not only produces an unsightly "paint dam"; an excessive amount of paint applied there can work its way under even the best masking tape. So to go along with all of the great advice posted so far on masking tape choices and application techniques, I just wanted to add this tip about going easy when you apply the second color, especially in the vicinity of the mask line. If you have achieved nice, even coverage with your base coat, then you should not need to apply very much to get good coverage for the second color, and applying the coat lightly will help you get a nice clean mask line.

MarkII
 
I can say that I picked up some of the 3M/Scotch Fine Line tape this weekend and it works very well. A bit expensive to buy it locally -- but I found some cheaper on eBay. If you buy more than 1 roll you can minimize the shipping costs. I got 3 rolls, including shipping, for about $17.

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/...270373245867&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:MOTORS:1123

Disclaimer: I have no connection with this seller. I just ordered yesterday, so I can't vouch for their service. I hope there isn't a restriction on posting eBay links.
 
In regards to the 3M Blue painters tape, note that there are 2 different kinds;

#2080, also labelled "Delicate surfaces"
#2090, also labelled "Multi-surfaces"

Use the #2080, it has lower tack, is less likely to pull up paint, and is easier to get the edge burnished down as it is thinner & smoother.
 
After being in the sign business for a bunch of years, I like the 3M Fine Line tapes. They layout nice, provide a sharp clean edge, and release nicely. If you are using old or really inexpensive tapes the adhesive will allow the bleeding. You should be able to find Fine Line and other good quality tapes and the auto refinish stores, art stores, and sign supply stores.
 
foose4string said:
+1 on the Tamiya tape. Hands down, the best tape I've tried. Green "Frog" tape was terrible in my experience. I also get very good results with blue 3m delicate surface tape.
Click to expand...

I'm an advocate as well for Tamiya tape, simply because of all of the tapes I've used (and I've used many), I've found it to be the most convenient and the least work, while still delivering the results I'm looking for. I will also use Frisket film and Parafilm when the situation warrants it, but for just plain old crisp straight lines, without a lot of fuss or base coating or whatever (which does work very well, as Greg has pointed out), I'll grab the Tamiya tape. It just works.

John
 
I have found out during my decades in this sport that A) Most of my really, really nice paint jobs are shorter lived than this thread. They either disappear (taking with them altimeters, motor cases, parachutes, a piece of my heart and some of the more important parts of my wallet-or core sample-leaving a very pristine fin can If I'm lucky. B) recover as expected looking very photogenic on the pad, going up and coming down-only to be drug thru every metamorphic, sedimentary and igneous rock known to man And coyote poop. c) get knocked over at the launch site, blown off the prep table, Fall over in the house, the shop and anywhere else, once even during a little tremblor. They never fall on pillows.
Discouraged? maybe a little. The examples here run the gamut from OMG! to wow-cool design! I take inspiration from all my fellow rocketeers. Do I try to keep up with the joneses? Naw- My G-Force ("Blackout"-get it?) is painted flat black for one reason. Touch up is a no brainer. Have I flown nekkid? Yep! My Artic Wolf is still in primer after all these years-mainly because I haven't thought of a paint scheme and I'm just lazy. And as soon as I do have a great scheme and great paint job I'll lose it (ref 'a') or 'b' or 'c'-I just know it).
BUT- It's always nice to get a comment on the flight line from somebody. I just smile and cry a little inside knowing they inadvertently cursed my rocket and I have to commit the sacrifice to the Sky Gods for everybody else to have a good day. Sanding can be cathartic, maybe masochistically, but still cathartic. Next time you see me out flying, stop by and say Hi! Then tell me what an ugly rocket I have-I'd appreciate that!
 
Please pardon the noobish question, but what is burnishing?

From context it is just pushing down the edge to get a better contact and thus less leakage from small gaps. And you can buy tools to help do that...
 
B787_300 said:
Please pardon the noobish question, but what is burnishing?

From context it is just pushing down the edge to get a better contact and thus less leakage from small gaps. And you can buy tools to help do that...
Click to expand...

Yes... burnishing is pressing the tape (or other materials depending on the application) down against the surface it's being applied on to get better contact...

Yep... you CAN buy tools, but I've found that one of THE handiest items for burnishing down tapes and paper is a regular old round-ended Sharpie marker... works great!

Later! OL JR :)
 

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