Masking Tape

[tony66]

I've begun to do a little painting now that the weather is warming up, but I'm running into an old problem. Spray paint leaks under the masking tape and ruins the striping and solid areas I'm trying to paint. Can anyone give me some recommendations regarding what tape to use? I've used regular masking tape, and this green tape I got at the hardware store paint section last year. Is this simply a problem with the tape getting old or being ruined by exposure to cold over the winter? I'm moving on to some scale models soon, and definately do not want to have to clean up the paint lines by hand again.
Thanks,
Tony

 

[MarkM]

I've used both the Blue tape and the Green tape. I've always gotten clean lines using them with no leakage. I stay away from standard masking tape as it often peels up the paint with it when removed. Are you certain the tape is sealed at the edge? A trick many use is to spray a thin layer of clear at the tape's edge. The clear should seal the edge preventing your acutal color coat from leaking under it. I've never had the need to try this, though.

Expose to Cold? I'm not sure what cold is...I live in Florida .

How old is the tape? I think I've used these tapes after about a year of outside storage with no noticeable affects on performance.

 

[powderburner]

MarkM already suggested the first thing I would have answered. The "fancy" painter's blue and green masking tape is more expensive than plain masking tape, but the aggravation they will save you is worth it.

One other idea: You can mist on a thin coat of clear along the edge of the masking tape where you want a hard line between colors. Make sure the clear you use is compatible with the paint underneath, and the paint going on top. This clear should help seal most of the edge of the tape. When you add your top color coat, you should have a lot less "leaking" under the masking tape.

Then there are other masking products like Frisket that are purpose-designed for this. Your local hobby shop or art supply store might carry this stuff.

When TRF1 becomes available again, do a search on those old posts for paint or masking and you should find a TON of tips and advice.

 

[Trident]

One word -- Tamiya. I've tried blue tape, green tape, and have not been satisfied at all.

Absolutely NO leaks from the Tamiya, and this from a roll I bought 5+ years ago at the hobby shop, and forgot about it until I found it in a drawer with some pinstriping tape. I recently bought more in another width. It is expensive, but who cares, when you get good results, and the possibility of leaks with cheaper stuff negate the savings from cheaper tape.

Here is a 3 color rocket with absolutely the cleanest lines I've ever had from masking. I've since added more black panels on the bottom. This was a actually done as a test of Rustoleum Lacquer, and I wanted to check out the 3 colors available. I did not paint the nose cone with white undercoat, hence it looks darker. I've since painted it with Testors Silver, so the lacquer base will work well for enamel topcoats or detailing.

 

[foose4string]

+1 on the Tamiya tape. Hands down, the best tape I've tried. Green "Frog" tape was terrible in my experience. I also get very good results with blue 3m delicate surface tape.

 

[gpoehlein]

The other side of the equation, especially if you are giving the tape a shot of clear coat before the second color, is tape removal.

After the paint has dried enough to remove the tape, run an X-Acto blade along the tape/paint line. This will cut the paint connection to the tape and allow you to remove the tape without pulling any of the second color up with it and creating a ragged edge.

 

[user 13]

Another plus for Tamiya tape. Works great.

Green frog tape has given me mixed results as have the blue tape.

 

[Micromeister]

You guys are so easily lead! Tamiya Tape is simply 3m Fine line tape repackaged for the hobby market. Your paying way to much for the something already available from any decent Paint supply.

But wait! theres more!
Tapes are not always the best solutions to masking. there are at least 3 other choices that can help in giving great results depending on what your trying to do.
*Masking films, such a Parafilm-M does wonderful working in very tight areas with lots of creases and corners.
*Liquid masks can also be very helpful on compound curved surfaces where wider coverage is needed.
* Masking sheet materials: suchs as Tufbak, Frisket and several others are very useful over large areas and where your want to knife in your own designs after application.

Frog tape is not the cure all that I've heard some folks say but don't dismiss it without experimenting with it some for yourself. I've found it does, for the most part do what is says it does. That is; stops under-wicking, as long as it's brunished down well just before the paint is applied. is it perfect, Nope but nether is anything else out there.. particularly Tamiya tape. which will lift if not burnished just like everything else. Personally I use a combination of two and sometimes three of these products on any given masking job. Blue painters tape, 3m fine line and sometimes a sheet masking or liquid mask as well. on very detailed areas Parafilm-M is always my first choice.
Hope this helps a little.

 

[bsexton]

You guys are so easily lead! Tamiya Tape is simply 3m Fine line tape repackaged for the hobby market. Your paying way to much for the something already available from any decent Paint supply.

I did not know that John but I still put my vote in for Tamiya (repackaged or not) since it supports my local hobby shop. Thanks for the other suggestions as well...

 

[Huge Blues]

I can report good results using Scotch/3M brand blue tape.

What I do:

1. Cut a fresh "leading edge" on the tape. Using a new Exacto blade on
a very clean cutting board.

2. Burnish the edge down just before spraying any paint.

3. Lay down a fine mist of the first color followed by the top color.

4. Carefully peel off tape within 45 minutes.

It's labor intensive and a nail-biter but it works.

 

[jpaw33]

every time I use blue masking tape it leaks or pulls up a layer of paint.Get some TAMIYA tape and you'll never have problems.I've used this tape on plastic models and all my rockets with outstanding results.I'm out of tape right now and have to drive about 50 miles to a hobby store to pick some up.The v-2 in my avitar was done using Tamiya tape.Good luck

 

[gpoehlein]

1. Cut a fresh "leading edge" on the tape. Using a new Exacto blade on
a very clean cutting board.

You might also try putting the tape on a piece of clean glass to cut it. Buy a cheap picture frame (preferably one of those "non-frame" jobs) and use the glass from that. Keep it clean and the tape shouldn't lose a lot of its tack.

 

[hcmbanjo]

I agree with Greg - again!
I'll cut a new straight edge on a tape strip after it has been pulled off the roll.
I just stick it on my glass patio door and cut off a thin strip with a razor blade and straightedge.
The best masking tape I have found is the Scotch Brand Matte Finish Removable Tape. It is available at office supply stores. The package is a blue plaid.
This is not my "find" but I read about it in an Apogee Rockets newsletter. It is less tacky and will not pull up the base color. It (or any tape for that matter) won't give a masked separation line unless the base coat is smooth, clean and dry!
I've recently had great luck with regular Scotch style tape. It does stick more than the removable tape. But, because it is so smooth, there is little chance of any paint seeping under the surface.

 

[jackman]

The best masking tape I have found is the Scotch Brand Matte Finish Removable Tape.

I'll ditto that. I'm also using the Pactra masking tape for pin striping detail. It's available in a variety of sizes at most hobby shops and online at Hobbylinc.comhttps://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/pac/pacmt104.htm.

 

[Indiana]

I keep all my masking tape in zip-lock bags to keep dust and fuzz off the edges.

Electrical tape makes good masking tape too, just be aware that if pull on it while applying it, it stretches and if that happens, you can end up with a wavy line.

 

[Micromeister]

Many of us Old time Scale modelers have used all kinds of tapes and films for masking detail work over the years.
One that shouldn't be overlooked but is rarely used anymore is plain old scotch magic tape, slightly detacked with a little finger oil.

Electrical tape is one of those overlooked tapes the are IDEAL for use on compound curves for just that reason. also keep in mind it has some elastic properties that make it tend to contract with time. Meaning if your use it to cover a compound curve, paint and remove it as quickly as possible.

Keeping all masking materials in zip locks or the like is a great way to extend the useful life of the adhesive. This goes for vinyl films and just about anything with an adhesive based backing.

While I too believe strongly in supporting our local hobby shops it's not a good thing to waste hard earned money on materals that can be purchased for much less and keep the manufacture and money in this country. But thats another long and rocky story.

 

[Peartree]

Just a word a caution in using the different colors of masking tape. the tan tape is regular 'around the house' tape and is less expensive but the blue "painters" tape is a lower tack (less sticky) tape which makes it easier to remove it without lifting the paint it was stuck to. Similarly the green tape is a higher tack (more sticky) tape and sticks very strongly. It works well but I have pulled paint up and even snapped a fin loose trying to remove it. the major manufactures (3M, etc.) follow a standard color convention but I'm not certain that the off brands do. Know what you are buying and use what works for you. I've had good luck with all three colors as long as I remember to burnish the edges well.

 

[tonypv]

I will echo the recommendation for Tamiya tape.
This stuff is great! Best masking tape I've ever used.

 

[Trident]

I put out the challenge to all -- try Tamiya tape! (Forthe time being, forget Micromeister's comment that is is just 3M repackaged. That may be, but to remove all doubt, just try the Tamiya and see the difference.)

If you find that blue tape works, but you are cutting a clean edge, burnishing it, laying down a mist of clear, etc., etc., you are doing all the things I did NOT do with the Tamiya. And I used a roll that was old.

Admittedly I paid more than maybe the equivalent 3M tape I could buy at an automotive or paint store (and maybe at lower cost), but unless I were masking behemoth HPR rockets, I am not using enough in a year that the extra buck or two is that big of a deal.

I will try the 3M tape, just to satisfy my curiosity, but if it leaks, I'm coming after you, Micromeister, for damages, and the subsequent emotional turmoil from ruining a rocket.

 

[foose4string]

I put out the challenge to all -- try Tamiya tape! (Forthe time being, forget Micromeister's comment that is is just 3M repackaged. That may be, but to remove all doubt, just try the Tamiya and see the difference.)

If you find that blue tape works, but you are cutting a clean edge, burnishing it, laying down a mist of clear, etc., etc., you are doing all the things I did NOT do with the Tamiya. And I used a roll that was old.

Admittedly I paid more than maybe the equivalent 3M tape I could buy at an automotive or paint store (and maybe at lower cost), but unless I were masking behemoth HPR rockets, I am not using enough in a year that the extra buck or two is that big of a deal.

I will try the 3M tape, just to satisfy my curiosity, but if it leaks, I'm coming after you, Micromeister, for damages, and the subsequent emotional turmoil from ruining a rocket.

Lee, I tried buying some 3M tape from the auto supply that was green. I thought it was fine line tape when I bought it, but after using it, I can see that it isn't. This tape is green and listed for automotive use, but I can't seem to find the 3M numerical designation on the roll. The number printed in the roll has been cut off and the wrapper is long gone. Tamiya is yellow, thinner, and seems to have a little less tack, and this green tape doesn't look like it or perform nearly as well.

Micro, while the Tamiya is more expensive, we know that it works and know where to get it. There is no confusion as to whether or not we are getting the right thing. I go to the hobby store and it's right there amidst all the other building supplies I need. Yes, I pay for convenience. I like the plastic container/dispenser. I see a Tamiya bag with tape in it and I automatically know it's the right stuff. With the vast array of 3M tapes and products it's not quite as clear. Care to enlighten us with the 3M product #'s and availability?

 

[Micromeister]

Foose & Lee:
I've given the product numbers tons of times before and where to get them.
Apparently it's a waste of time as ya didn't pay any attention. 3M Fine line tapes come in a variety of widths from 1/16" to 6" and each has it's own stock number. all however are in the 6400 series.
As for where, again I can tell you where we buy it in Maryland, but that doesn't do Lee in CO much good. Any decent automotive finishing supply "WILL" have it on the shelf. Pepboys is NOT a automotive finishing supply.

If convience is your only concern they buy whatever ya want.

I'm simply infoming the masses that Tamiya tape or any other tape for that matter really isn't the problem causing underwicking on your paint jobs.... its the method and procedure used in application of the Maskings that make the difference.
Lee; I build LPR, Micro and Scale models, even the smallest underwickings are a much more pronunced problem on these smaller subjects. I wouldn't post these comments if it weren't so. Work on your methods, then the materials used won't pose a concern.

 

[gpoehlein]

Wasn't me, dude... I only gave tips on removing the tape after the paint has dried and on using a sheet of clean glass to cut a true straight edge to the tape. And I definitely agree that it isn't the tape, it's the painting that causes headaches. As Micro said earlier - the key is to give the model a shot of either clear or the base coat (clear is the better choice, but base color will work in a pinch) after applying the tape to seal off the edge.

As they say in the commercials - Try it, You'll Like It!

 

[Zack Lau]

This is one area where it really helps to use an airbrush--especially a dual action airbrush that lets you vary the ratio of air to paint. I found it wasn't all that hard to learn--even though I had a stroke that gave me coordination issues with my right side. I typically hold the airbrush with my right hand and hold the model with my left.

 

[jackman]

This is one area where it really helps to use an airbrush--especially a dual action airbrush that lets you vary the ratio of air to paint.

Which airbrush are you using? I'm considering an airbrush purchase and am a bit overwhelmed at the number of choices. At the moment I've narrowed it down to the Paasche VL (made in USA) at a fairly good price $70 at Amazon. Others have mentioned the Badger also but I wasn't sure if it was made in the USA.

 

[Zack Lau]

I use an Iwata Eclipse CS with a 0.5mm needle--it has a small gravity feed paint cup that is great for model rockets. Especially for contest rockets where you want the absolute minimum of added weight, yet full coverage of a paint for visibility. You want something different for HPR.

 

[foose4string]

Foose & Lee:
I've given the product numbers tons of times before and where to get them.
Apparently it's a waste of time as ya didn't pay any attention. 3M Fine line tapes come in a variety of widths from 1/16" to 6" and each has it's own stock number. all however are in the 6400 series.
As for where, again I can tell you where we buy it in Maryland, but that doesn't do Lee in CO much good. Any decent automotive finishing supply "WILL" have it on the shelf. Pepboys is NOT a automotive finishing supply.

If convience is your only concern they buy whatever ya want.

I'm simply infoming the masses that Tamiya tape or any other tape for that matter really isn't the problem causing underwicking on your paint jobs.... its the method and procedure used in application of the Maskings that make the difference.
Lee; I build LPR, Micro and Scale models, even the smallest underwickings are a much more pronunced problem on these smaller subjects. I wouldn't post these comments if it weren't so. Work on your methods, then the materials used won't pose a concern.

John, unfortunately I'm so thick headed that I don't remember every last post you ever made and part #'s related to them. I didn't write it down as I thought my reference material wasn't going anywhere. Pardon me. Unfortunately, most of that reference material was lost in TRF 1.0. Hopefully that archive will be up soon. In the meantime, thanks for the info as it needed to be repeated here on TRF 2.0 for the newbs and us dummies.

Convenience wasn't the only concern. I believe the concern was getting the right tape.

 

[Zack Lau]

The blue 3M Fineline 6404 is 1/8." The 6405 is 1/4." They are optimized for curves--I rarely use them.

 

[foose4string]

The blue 3M Fineline 6404 is 1/8." The 6405 is 1/4." They are optimized for curves--I rarely use them.

Thanks Zack.

 

[Trident]

Foose & Lee:

If convience is your only concern they buy whatever ya want.

I'm simply infoming the masses that Tamiya tape or any other tape for that matter really isn't the problem causing underwicking on your paint jobs.... its the method and procedure used in application of the Maskings that make the difference.
Lee; I build LPR, Micro and Scale models, even the smallest underwickings are a much more pronunced problem on these smaller subjects. I wouldn't post these comments if it weren't so. Work on your methods, then the materials used won't pose a concern.

John,

Convenience was not my only concern. It was finding a tape I KNEW would work. Enough people have had problems with blue/green/frog/regular masking tape that a number of us have been singing the praises of Tamiya. It flat out works. If indeed some of the tape you've bought from automotive supplies works, great.

Am I the only one here, though, simply amazed at your arrogance?

Telling me I might want to try another tape is fine. But to suggest I might want to "work on my methods" just to try to get a better paint job with any old tape I might choose? Just a little condescending, IMHO. (If you are implying I might strive to improve my skills, I'll look to others here for examples of quality work. I've seen your work, and it is not exactly the example of where I'd look for inspiration.)

 

[luke strawwalker]

John,


Am I the only one here, though, simply amazed at your arrogance?

Telling me I might want to try another tape is fine. But to suggest I might want to "work on my methods" just to try to get a better paint job with any old tape I might choose? Just a little condescending, IMHO. (If you are implying I might strive to improve my skills, I'll look to others here for examples of quality work. I've seen your work, and it is not exactly the example of where I'd look for inspiration.)

No... I've been tongue lashed myself in the past... OL JR