Yeah except the decals for some reason. Had a harder time than the interceptor.Very very nice. Fun build?
Wow you built it..when Estes send me the email 2 weeks ago on this kit..I said no way...will be hard with struts and circular tail ring (solar panels)Just needs clear coat. The decals were trickier than normal. Not sure if it’s the decals or the type of gloss paint I used. Worked better after I added a small amount of white glue to the water.
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It’s all decal so easier than the Lunar Scout. I thought it was well designed. I almost epoxied the struts to the BT but decided would be easier to reattach without.So did everyone build theirs with the rear fin ring in place and then try to paint it, or did some people putty/prime/paint it separately? If separately, how did you handle attaching the long fins that go up the body and attach on the outside of the ring?
5.3 oz.. What does Estes give as a weight.......how close were you to their spec?
Open the pod bay doors, Hal.The specs on my Longship webpage states: Weight: 4.3 oz. (121.9 g). I have no idea where that number came from? The box it came in does not list weight? I would not have converted the oz to g, so I must have gotten this number somewhere online??
I usually come close to the listed weight, but think I used alot of paint?!?
I did put more decals on - it did seem to need them!
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Daiseeee, daiseeee....Open the pod bay doors, Hal.
Thanks but that was a stock photo I used. I think you're right that I didn't seal the fins since most are covered in decals anyways. You could dip them in sanding sealer with the method that @Patternflyer uses. The weak point is where it connects to the ring. I've had to thin CA that joint a couple times.Rklapp, She looks great, I may have to buy this rocket. When you do not seal the balsa, do you just apply the paint on the raw balsa or do you have to apply multiple coats of primer?
I've built about 90 LPRs this year so I'm trying to pace myself.Thank you, I bet not treating the fins speeds up the build
I think @neil_w suggested using tape to pull off dust on the balsa before applying the paper. I was amazed how much dust was pulled off the fins by the tape. You could also use compressed air to clean the fins before applying.I had a few places lift up on me and I believe epoxy will hold better. Regardless of which way to decide to go, make sure you do both sides at the same time and then sandwich them between 2 flat surfaces with lots of weight while drying to prevent warping and ensure good glue bondage.
I would not use epoxy for fin papering. If your paper isn't holding, it's not because the glue isn't strong enough. How much glue are you using?I think moving forward, I will continue with the papering method, however, I will try using epoxy instead of wood glue. I had a few places lift up on me and I believe epoxy will hold better. Regardless of which way to decide to go, make sure you do both sides at the same time and then sandwich them between 2 flat surfaces with lots of weight while drying to prevent warping and ensure good glue bondage.
Yes, after brushing off the dust with a soft paintbrush, I use blue tape to pull off remaining dust (sort of like de-linting tape), to ensure that the adhesive is bonded to the wood, and not to dust. I don't know if that explains @Patternflyer's lifting problem, though.I think @neil_w suggested using tape to pull off dust on the balsa before applying the paper. I was amazed how much dust was pulled off the fins by the tape. You could also use compressed air to clean the fins before applying.
Not sure what I did wrong. I poured wood glue onto the fin, then spread it with my finger. Then I took a plastic squeegee and scraped almost all of it off, leaving a very fine sheen on the wood surface. Then I laid the paper down. Just curious as to why not use epoxy?
I am a little perplexed as to how to get good rounded leading edges with paper. Thoughts?
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