Almost done. Needs paint. The instructions have a small error in that the second plastic pod is measured from the end and not the first pod.
Mars Longship
- Thread starter Ronz Rocketz
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I almost forgot the launch lug. LOL
I didn't seal the balsa or fill the seams, and I'll epoxy the lug.
I'm impressed with how the fins come together. Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until the lockdown is lifted to use the larger field.
I didn't seal the balsa or fill the seams, and I'll epoxy the lug.
I'm impressed with how the fins come together. Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until the lockdown is lifted to use the larger field.
Yeah, definitely wait until the trade winds die down along with my new Estes Cobra.
Its hella windy at the range.
Its hella windy at the range.
Just needs clear coat. The decals were trickier than normal. Not sure if it’s the decals or the type of gloss paint I used. Worked better after I added a small amount of white glue to the water.
GlenP
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nice looking rocket, that one is on my list.
Looks like it would go together well with this one:
https://estesrockets.com/product/007253-explorer-aquarius/variations on a theme.
Looks like it would go together well with this one:
https://estesrockets.com/product/007253-explorer-aquarius/variations on a theme.
Very very nice. Fun build?
Yeah except the decals for some reason. Had a harder time than the interceptor.
Wow you built it..when Estes send me the email 2 weeks ago on this kit..I said no way...will be hard with struts and circular tail ring (solar panels)
So did everyone build theirs with the rear fin ring in place and then try to paint it, or did some people putty/prime/paint it separately? If separately, how did you handle attaching the long fins that go up the body and attach on the outside of the ring?
I am almost done building one of these as well! Made notes and took pics to post as a build at some point.
It’s all decal so easier than the Lunar Scout. I thought it was well designed. I almost epoxied the struts to the BT but decided would be easier to reattach without.
I used white glue on the fin detail but still warped a little so probably better with epoxy instead.
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Thanks for the info. The Interceptor does have ALOT of decals! 
Unboxed my Longship and got the required parts shot! The box protected all parts well. Not many modifications will be done on my build.
Good luck on first flight!
Unboxed my Longship and got the required parts shot!
The box protected all parts well. Not many modifications will be done on my build.Good luck on first flight!
Finished at 5.3 oz. What a fun build!
5.3 oz.. What does Estes give as a weight.......how close were you to their spec?
The specs on my Longship webpage states: Weight: 4.3 oz. (121.9 g). I have no idea where that number came from? The box it came in does not list weight? I would not have converted the oz to g, so I must have gotten this number somewhere online??
I usually come close to the listed weight, but think I used alot of paint?!?
I did put more decals on - it did seem to need them!
I usually come close to the listed weight, but think I used alot of paint?!?
I did put more decals on - it did seem to need them!
Open the pod bay doors, Hal.
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Daiseeee, daiseeee....
Thanks but that was a stock photo I used. I think you're right that I didn't seal the fins since most are covered in decals anyways. You could dip them in sanding sealer with the method that @Patternflyer uses. The weak point is where it connects to the ring. I've had to thin CA that joint a couple times.
I usually paper the fins with label sheets or use sanding sealer for small complicated fins. I then use two coats of primer then two coats of paint followed by Pledge floor gloss.
Here's what my Mars Mars looks like. You can see where the NC collided with the ring and flexed it a bit.
I've built about 90 LPRs this year so I'm trying to pace myself.
Patternflyer
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I'm stuck trying to figure out my favorite way of doing the fins. I did try dipping them in the sealer at first, and it dries nice and hard, but I kept snapping them in half while sanding! Also, when they dried, they had pretty bad warps to them. LOL I then tried painting on sandable wood sealer. That seemed to be better than dipping in the sealer. On my most recent project, I attempted to paper the fins. I think I'm going to stick with the paper, as it yielded the easiest result to work with, plus it adds some strength.
I think moving forward, I will continue with the papering method, however, I will try using epoxy instead of wood glue. I had a few places lift up on me and I believe epoxy will hold better. Regardless of which way to decide to go, make sure you do both sides at the same time and then sandwich them between 2 flat surfaces with lots of weight while drying to prevent warping and ensure good glue bondage.
I think moving forward, I will continue with the papering method, however, I will try using epoxy instead of wood glue. I had a few places lift up on me and I believe epoxy will hold better. Regardless of which way to decide to go, make sure you do both sides at the same time and then sandwich them between 2 flat surfaces with lots of weight while drying to prevent warping and ensure good glue bondage.
I think @neil_w suggested using tape to pull off dust on the balsa before applying the paper. I was amazed how much dust was pulled off the fins by the tape. You could also use compressed air to clean the fins before applying.
I would not use epoxy for fin papering. If your paper isn't holding, it's not because the glue isn't strong enough. How much glue are you using?
Mostly I use adhesive label paper, which is easier still (and I've never had one lift), but glue-papering is great too, and stronger.
Yes, after brushing off the dust with a soft paintbrush, I use blue tape to pull off remaining dust (sort of like de-linting tape), to ensure that the adhesive is bonded to the wood, and not to dust. I don't know if that explains @Patternflyer's lifting problem, though.
Patternflyer
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Not sure what I did wrong. I poured wood glue onto the fin, then spread it with my finger. Then I took a plastic squeegee and scraped almost all of it off, leaving a very fine sheen on the wood surface. Then I laid the paper down. Just curious as to why not use epoxy?
I am a little perplexed as to how to get good rounded leading edges with paper. Thoughts?
I am a little perplexed as to how to get good rounded leading edges with paper. Thoughts?
My Green Vortex has had several hard landings. For papering, I use Avery-ish label paper (1 label per sheet). I use one corner to take off the dust then press to a clean area then fold over. Usually have to use 2 sheets. I then press under a thick book overnight. I cut them apart and use an emory board to sand off the excess. I then use the emory board to round the corners. Finally, I run a bead of thin CA along the edge and sand smooth when dry. I've found this gives me the best edge finish. Careful you don't get the thin CA on your fingers or it can burn and don't breathe in the fumes. You'll have to suspend the fins for about 10 minutes or they'll stick to whatever.
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