LOC Decals

[tazzdevl1]

Anyone used the material and method of creating waterslide decals as described on LOC's website? I ordered the 10 pack of 5 each (clear and white background) waterslide decal sheets. I am trying to make a BT wrap of flames that will cover only about 6" of my Deuce's wild. Everytime I attempt to apply the decal it falls apart. The clear paint used to "seal" it comes off and then the ink runs. I've tried varying the length of the clear paint drying time. Still the same result. could it ve that I'm handling the decal too much? Making a decal that large and wrapping it around the BT requires a lot of adjusting and handling. I'm using Krylon clear spraypaint to seal them.

What am I doing wrong?!!


Tazz

 

[Stymye]

have you been spraying the clear on nice and thick , 2 or 3 coats?
I like to let them dry for atleast a couple days

I've done some full sheet size decals with the Bel paper and it worked well without cracking or ink running.

 

[rokitflite]

Yeah, the inkjet decals have been a pain in the butt for me. I made one set for a rocket that looked great. It has been on the model for almost 2 years with a layer of clearcoat on it and the decals are bleeding! I used them on the photo model of my Odyssey kit because I could not wait for my Alps printer at the time. Those decals are now discoloring! I would suggest some type of polyurethane clear coat over the decal sheet after the protective spray and before dipping it in water. I have found that many poly sprays are kinda thick and stay somewhat flexible for a period of time. Good luck!

 

[Fore Check]

The best method for inkjet decals is to use the MicroScale liquid decal film and airbrush it on with no dilution.

If you're very careful, you can actually brush on the MicroScale. You pour it from the bottle onto the decal page and gently brush with a foam brush.

The decals on this rocket were made with Expert's Choice "clear" decal paper and brushed on MicroScale liquid decal film. The decals still look great to this day.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/attachment.php?postid=68888

 

[OKTurbo]

The absolute best stuff I've used for inkjet (or even Alps) decals is MicroScale Liquid Decal Film. Once the decals are dry, you coat the decals with the solution and let it dry (Dries quickly). This gives them a tough coating....making them MUCH easier to handle.

https://www.bare-metal.com/decals/microscale_1.html

https://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=MY0012

I usually buy it from Squadron....

 

[OKTurbo]

LOL....Simon you're just too fast for me!

 

[Fore Check]

Speaking of LOC decals - I was able to cabbage together (from their downloadable decals) about an 8x11 page worth for a pair of LOC rockets. Once I was able to get them in the right file format for the guy at the local sign shop, he was (well, he's in the process of) making me cut vinyl decals for about $6.

You might call a local sign shop and investigate. Cut vinyl is very nice on bigger rockets.

 

[Fore Check]

Originally posted by OKTurbo
LOL....Simon you're just too fast for me!

LOL!

Yeah, but you *do* have to be careful when using the MicroScale film on inkjet decals, as the ink may run a bit when re-wetted by the decal film.

 

[rokitflite]

Careful though... I just discovered (to my delight ) that the micro scale stuff attacks the Alps gold and silver foils. If I do more than one pass over it with a brush it comes right off. I was wondering about airbrushing the stuff on. I guess you are saying that that will work well huh Simon?

 

[Stymye]

Scott ,
you must have bad luck ... I or just have good luck .. I have models I'm looking at right now) that are 3-4 yrs old done as suggested with the krylon .. no bleeding , no yellowing. they still look as new.
I wonder if Bel has changed their paper because I'm using 4 yr old paper and still have great results every time.or possibly the ink

I'm using HP ink. but I just got a canon printer and have yet to try it on decals.

 

[rokitflite]

Originally posted by stymye
Scott ,
you must have bad luck ... I or just have good luck .. I have models I'm looking at right now) that are 3-4 yrs old done as suggested with the krylon .. no bleeding , no yellowing. they still look as new.
I wonder if Bel has changed their paper because I'm using 4 yr old paper and still have great results every time.or possibly the ink

I'm using HP ink. but I just got a canon printer and have yet to try it on decals.

Hey Andy,
My middle name is spelled D-a-v-i-d-s-o-n and it is pronounced "bad luck"!!! I was using another brand of paper (So Cal) with an HP printer and Deft clear coat. I am not so concerned about it anymore since I got the Alps printers. I have an addictive personality (thank god I never got into drugs) and I am hooked on the Alps... I have 3 printers and about 500 cartridges. Everytime a good deal is to be had on Ebay I jump on it. After I printed my first set of decals on the Alps I was in awe. I want to keep making kits and I figure I will be set for a long time in the decal making department! For the Alps I use the Bel decal paper which I get from Tango Papa. The paper is great and Tom's service and prices are outstanding.

Oh, and to all of you out there that are curious... The Testors decal paper is THE WORST!!!

 

[tazzdevl1]

I haven't tried several coats of clear yet. That maybe my next attempt. The liquid decal stuff also sounds like a good idea.

I have access to a laser printer at work. Would that be the way to go and not worry about the inkjet?

The best idea so far seems to be one that I used for another rocket that turned out great. That is the sign shop. There is a shop in town that did the top portion of my L1 cert rocket "Star Gazer" PE Performer. I may need to stop by there tomorrow and see if they can work some more magic. But, then again, doing it myself has the whole satisfaction thing going for it.

Any other ideas?

Tazz

 

[rokitflite]

A color laser printer would be a bit easier...

 

[BobH48]

I have been using the Bels decal paper that I got about a year and a half ago, printed with a Lexmark printer and given 3 thick coats of Krylon Crystal Clear and they are working out just fine.

They seem to take a long time to release from the paper after you dip them in water and if you try to rush it, you take the chance of stretching the decal and cracking the clearcoat which then causes the ink to run.

 

[tazzdevl1]

Originally posted by BobH48
I have been using the Bels decal paper that I got about a year and a half ago, printed with a Lexmark printer and given 3 thick coats of Krylon Crystal Clear and they are working out just fine.

They seem to take a long time to release from the paper after you dip them in water and if you try to rush it, you take the chance of stretching the decal and cracking the clearcoat which then causes the ink to run.

This sounds more like my problem. I need to soak them a bit longer and work a little slower as not to cause it to crack and run.

Thanks to all

Tazz

 

[Fore Check]

Originally posted by rokitflite
Careful though... I just discovered (to my delight ) that the micro scale stuff attacks the Alps gold and silver foils.

Are you referring to stuff like the decals for the Estes Citation Patriot (gold colors???)

If so, I had no trouble *at all* using the MicroScale on said decals. Sadly, you can't acheive much of a metallic color with an ink-jet printer, so those parts of the color wheel don't apply to an ink-jet application.


Sorry for the trouble you've had... I've had NO trouble with micro-scale and have built MANY different models with MicroScale treated decals. My experience with the "foil colors" is limited at best, however.


I can't help but think that your gold foil decal is different than the gold foil type on the big eagle wrap of the Citation Patriot....

 

[zog43editor]

Originally posted by rokitflite
A color laser printer would be a bit easier...

What I do when I can only get the laser type paper (typically for some last minute thing) is do my art and print it out in color on my ink jet at the best setting, then take that to Kinko;s and use one of their color printers and run my decal paper through the manual feed slot. This has made some very nice decals for me- including the ones on my downscale Interceptor and a couple of scale models.

kj

 

[rokitflite]

Originally posted by Fore Check
Are you referring to stuff like the decals for the Estes Citation Patriot (gold colors???)

I can't help but think that your gold foil decal is different than the gold foil type on the big eagle wrap of the Citation Patriot....

No Simon, you are talking about the "Metallic" Gold, I am talking about the Gold "Foil". If you look at the decal sheet in the Odyssey kit, that is using the foil. None of the other colors have given me the slightest problem.

 

[Fore Check]

Ah.

I have not applied MicroScale to anything like those in your Odyssey.

 

[rokitflite]

Originally posted by Fore Check
Ah.

I have not applied MicroScale to anything like those in your Odyssey.

Just make sure when you put it over the gold part you only do one pass with the brush then let it dry! If you mess up let me know and I'll send you another set.