Let's talk purples

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SolarYellow

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I'm planning an upscale or two of the classic Wizard paint scheme with the back half in a deep purple color.

I've seen Krylon Color Maxx Rich Plum. Pretty decent. Available on Amazon reasonably. But I hate the newer nozzles.

I have Acryli-Quik. The purple is lighter than I want, not ideal. Might settle and do it because it's great paint and already on the shelf, but I want to do better on the color.

I've seen Testors Plum Crazy. Seems to be NLA.

Anyone know how to find something in Duplicolor? I tried the Mopar Plum Crazy and Hellraisin paint codes and nothing came up. The DE1640 engine enamel looks like it might be a good fit on color, but if I'm going to spend that kinda money, maybe there's a metallic or something that would be even nicer.

There is a Mopar factory touch-up can for Plum Crazy that's about $12/5 oz. online. Assume it wants a fairly fancy top coat.

Tamiya colors are all over the place online. TS-24 photos range from very purple and a good bet to almost blue.

Ace purple is too dark, plum is too light.

Rusto purple looks OK, but I hate Rusto.

There's also the Createx line, with some selection available at Hobby Lobby.

Any experience/opinions/preferences between all these options?

Anything else I should be looking at?
 
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I'm partial to the anodized-aluminum-look paint. Dupli-Color is available in purple, red, blue, yellow, green, black, and orange-copper. Requires an undercoat of aluminum paint (it doesn't have to be their brand, I used Krylon) for best results. Here's my MASE in Krylon Citrus Green with anodized purple nose cone and trim.

Note: Both Citrus Green and purple-anodized paint are rather thin so it takes several coats to get an even look without runs.
1698752217502.png
 
As one of the resident TRF Createx fan-bois, I highly recommend them. Look into putting down a basecoat of their Autoborne Silver Sealer, then following up with the W307 Pearl Plum Wicked Color, followed by a final topcoat of UVLS Clear High Gloss. Hit it with a medium cut polishing compound and a yellow buffing pad to make it pop.

Definitely watch the videos on how to paint on hard surfaces with the Createx system. I usually add about 10%-25% UVLS Clear Gloss (NOT High Gloss) to the basecoat and color coat, with about 10% of their 4011 Reducer. You want it to run smoothly off your stirring stick without dripping as drops. Use a 1.3mm nozzle or smaller (I use a 0.6mm nozzle on my small detail gun I bought from Horrid Fright (Harbor Freight) for $10, and a 1.3mm nozzle on my Iwata AirGunsa for larger coverage.) for your spray gun. I've gotten excellent results, with no nasty fumes and EASY cleanup (run water through the spray gun). And SWMBO doesn't mind me letting rockets dry/cure inside the house, unlike rattle-can and high VOC solvent-based systems.
 
I've used both the Montana gloss and Duplicolor clear over Montana lacquers. You could likely use Krylon, Spraymax 2K, or any other preferred clear over top.

I should not be so brazen to speak on his behalf, but I think Tom (Banzai88) has shot Spraymax 2K over Montana Gold on at least one of his projects.
 
As one of the resident TRF Createx fan-bois, I highly recommend them. Look into putting down a basecoat of their Autoborne Silver Sealer, then following up with the W307 Pearl Plum Wicked Color, followed by a final topcoat of UVLS Clear High Gloss. Hit it with a medium cut polishing compound and a yellow buffing pad to make it pop.

Definitely watch the videos on how to paint on hard surfaces with the Createx system. I usually add about 10%-25% UVLS Clear Gloss (NOT High Gloss) to the basecoat and color coat, with about 10% of their 4011 Reducer. You want it to run smoothly off your stirring stick without dripping as drops. Use a 1.3mm nozzle or smaller (I use a 0.6mm nozzle on my small detail gun I bought from Horrid Fright (Harbor Freight) for $10, and a 1.3mm nozzle on my Iwata AirGunsa for larger coverage.) for your spray gun. I've gotten excellent results, with no nasty fumes and EASY cleanup (run water through the spray gun). And SWMBO doesn't mind me letting rockets dry/cure inside the house, unlike rattle-can and high VOC solvent-based systems.

For the white forward part and primer, I have Acryli-Quik white primer as well as AQ gloss white in copious quantity. I think I also have some Createx opaque white. Probably best to go with the Createx white, but would you recommend the W301 Pearl White rather than standard opaque?

Here's the layer list I'm thinking, with Createx stuff mixed as you direct:
Duplicolor FP101 filler primer
AQ white primer to uniform it
Autoborne Silver Sealer - should I bother with the AQ white if I'm going to do this?
front of the rocket - Createx, either opaque white or W301 Pearl White
rear of the rocket - W307 Pearl Plum
laser printed decals
UVLS Clear High Gloss

Sprayed through this in an automotive spray booth I have access to at work:
https://www.toucheairbrush.com/product/943693/single-action-internal-mix-set-w-all-three-heads/
 
For the white forward part and primer, I have Acryli-Quik white primer as well as AQ gloss white in copious quantity. I think I also have some Createx opaque white. Probably best to go with the Createx white, but would you recommend the W301 Pearl White rather than standard opaque?

Here's the layer list I'm thinking, with Createx stuff mixed as you direct:
Duplicolor FP101 filler primer
AQ white primer to uniform it
Autoborne Silver Sealer - should I bother with the AQ white if I'm going to do this?
front of the rocket - Createx, either opaque white or W301 Pearl White
rear of the rocket - W307 Pearl Plum
laser printed decals
UVLS Clear High Gloss

Sprayed through this in an automotive spray booth I have access to at work:
https://www.toucheairbrush.com/product/943693/single-action-internal-mix-set-w-all-three-heads/
You can certainly apply the Createx sealer over the top of Duplicolor Sandable Primer. I used the Sandable White under the Createx Yellow Sealer on my LOC 4" Goblin. I'd use that instead of the grey primer that Duplicolor sells. I wouldn't bother with the AQ white primer if you lay down the Autoborne Silver Sealer over the primer. The idea behind the sealer, in this case, is to give a bit of a silver shine-through the Pearl Plum. It covers very well. I laid down Autoborne White Sealer on the black nosecone of my EZI-65 and three coats covered beautifully.

Yeah, I'd use the W301 Pearl White rather than the Opaque White if you're laying down Pearl Plum for the rest of the rocket. Keeps the POP in the paint, so to speak. Keep the Silver Sealer under the Pearl White.

Nice thing about the UVLS High Gloss over printed decals is it protects the decals from UV damage over time.
 
Sprayed through this in an automotive spray booth I have access to at work:
https://www.toucheairbrush.com/product/943693/single-action-internal-mix-set-w-all-three-heads/
I'd also use a bigger spray gun than an airbrush, unless you're painting a LPR model. Even for my LPR stuff, I'm using this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html
If you're a member of the Inside Track Club, it's only $10+tax. Just make sure you clean it thoroughly after each use and don't let it sit too long between coats.
 
I'd also use a bigger spray gun than an airbrush, unless you're painting a LPR model. Even for my LPR stuff, I'm using this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html
If you're a member of the Inside Track Club, it's only $10+tax. Just make sure you clean it thoroughly after each use and don't let it sit too long between coats.

The Wizard upscales that are the target for the purple question will be 30mm body tubes, 1.18 OD. Figure that airbrush should be adequate. I believe I can borrow a detail gun if needed for bigger stuff. I've been keeping an eye on @Hobie1dog's recommendation of this Paasche in the event I want to own one. Kinda kicking myself for not grabbing it at $37:

Paasche HG-08 HVLP Gravity Feed Touch-Up Spray Gun

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUWVE8Q/
Might as well share a little more. Planning two builds.

One will be a 24mm MMT whoosh-pop, probably only 70mm motor mount. That should go considerably higher than a Goblin on a D12, which will be plenty. KISS with no electronics, at the edge of what my better-than-20/20 eyes will likely be able to track. Might just see what the nearest Hobby Lobby has for Createx purple and go with that and the opaque white I already have for this one. That will get me started with Createx and the airbrush.

The second one will be for 29mm motors, with an EF Mini in the NC and dual deploy via a Quark. As a much higher-investment rocket, I'll probably invest more in the paint. At this point, thinking about the pearls as described above for this one, which is a more involved & advanced program.
 
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The Wizard upscales that are the target for the purple question will be 30mm body tubes, 1.18 OD. Figure that airbrush should be adequate. I believe I can borrow a detail gun if needed for bigger stuff. I've been keeping an eye on @Hobie1dog's recommendation of this Paasche in the event I want to own one. Kinda kicking myself for not grabbing it at $37:

Paasche HG-08 HVLP Gravity Feed Touch-Up Spray Gun

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUWVE8Q/
Might as well share a little more. Planning two builds.

One will be a 24mm MMT whoosh-pop, probably only 70mm motor mount. That should go considerably higher than a Goblin on a D12, which will be plenty. KISS with no electronics, at the edge of what my better-than-20/20 eyes will likely be able to track. Might just see what the nearest Hobby Lobby has for Createx purple and go with that and the opaque white I already have for this one. That will get me started with Createx and the airbrush.

The second one will be for 29mm motors, with an EF Mini in the NC and dual deploy via a Quark. As a much higher-investment rocket, I'll probably invest more in the paint. At this point, thinking about the pearls as described above for this one, which is a more involved & advanced program.
Kewl! I own an Iwata Neo for an airbrush. I like it. Your Paasche is a very high quality airbrush, you should be very happy with it.
 
Do you use the T1000 Gloss Varnish on top of the Gold matte colors and decals to get a good gloss?
Montana gloss if you want, but the ultimate is Max2K. Rock hard and will polish to a mirror shine.

This is now my go to paint and clear. Never any issue.

Make sure to use a respirator with the Max2K, and read/follow all the instructions.
 
I'm planning an upscale or two of the classic Wizard paint scheme with the back half in a deep purple color.

I've seen Krylon Color Maxx Rich Plum. Pretty decent. Available on Amazon reasonably. But I hate the newer nozzles.

I have Acryli-Quik. The purple is lighter than I want, not ideal. Might settle and do it because it's great paint and already on the shelf, but I want to do better on the color.

I've seen Testors Plum Crazy. Seems to be NLA.

Anyone know how to find something in Duplicolor? I tried the Mopar Plum Crazy and Hellraisin paint codes and nothing came up. The DE1640 engine enamel looks like it might be a good fit on color, but if I'm going to spend that kinda money, maybe there's a metallic or something that would be even nicer.

There is a Mopar factory touch-up can for Plum Crazy that's about $12/5 oz. online. Assume it wants a fairly fancy top coat.

Tamiya colors are all over the place online. TS-24 photos range from very purple and a good bet to almost blue.

Ace purple is too dark, plum is too light.

Rusto purple looks OK, but I hate Rusto.

There's also the Createx line, with some selection available at Hobby Lobby.

Any experience/opinions/preferences between all these options?

Anything else I should be looking at?
Createx Color W307 Wicked Pearl Plum
 
Did some recon at Hobby Lobby this afternoon.

The Testors spray lacquer is available in Purple Licious. It's a nice, deep, metallic purple. That plus the Acryli-Quik white would be the easy-good answer. $8.29 is cheaper than Hobbylinc.

The Krylon Short Cuts Iris looks like a nice purple by the cap. Not quite as dark, but in the right range. Solid color, not metallic, so a little less interesting, but the price winner at $3.99 for the 3-oz can. Short Cuts also appears to use an old-school male spray nozzle, instead of the horrible, new-fangled female nozzles that all the big cans have gone to.

Krylon ColorMaxx Rich Plum is $5.99, slightly cheaper than Amazon for a 12-oz can. Probably a better value than the Short Cuts, not sure I'd ever use the extra material. And it might have a crappy nozzle that doesn't actually work.

In Createx, they had Wicked Pearl White, but not Wicked Pearl Plum. They did have the standard Airbrush Colors Pearl White and Pearl Plum, which are a little cheaper. Probably the way to go for deluxe results. They had gloss clear but not high gloss clear. Also noticed they have Wicked Metallic Charcoal, which just went to the front of the line for my Leviathan projects. Might go with the Pearl Green on those, but will probably stick with a green I already have.

So, I can still waffle around in circles, but at least now I have more information.
 
Did some recon at Hobby Lobby this afternoon.

The Testors spray lacquer is available in Purple Licious. It's a nice, deep, metallic purple. That plus the Acryli-Quik white would be the easy-good answer. $8.29 is cheaper than Hobbylinc.

The Krylon Short Cuts Iris looks like a nice purple by the cap. Not quite as dark, but in the right range. Solid color, not metallic, so a little less interesting, but the price winner at $3.99 for the 3-oz can. Short Cuts also appears to use an old-school male spray nozzle, instead of the horrible, new-fangled female nozzles that all the big cans have gone to.

Krylon ColorMaxx Rich Plum is $5.99, slightly cheaper than Amazon for a 12-oz can. Probably a better value than the Short Cuts, not sure I'd ever use the extra material. And it might have a crappy nozzle that doesn't actually work.

In Createx, they had Wicked Pearl White, but not Wicked Pearl Plum. They did have the standard Airbrush Colors Pearl White and Pearl Plum, which are a little cheaper. Probably the way to go for deluxe results. They had gloss clear but not high gloss clear. Also noticed they have Wicked Metallic Charcoal, which just went to the front of the line for my Leviathan projects. Might go with the Pearl Green on those, but will probably stick with a green I already have.

So, I can still waffle around in circles, but at least now I have more information.
So, if you need Wicked Pearl Plum, mix Pearl Plum with UVLS Gloss, about 10%-20%. It won't be *exactly* like the Wicked, but the urethane in the UVLS will make the regular Pearl Plum harder and more wear-resistant.
 
Mentioned in the OP. I hate Rusto's valve/nozzle and other aspects and prefer to use it only where there is no other choice, such as the Golden Sunset/Cub Yellow Monokote matching.
Order some of these and try them - https://artprimo.com/catalog/spray-paint-caps-c-27.html

They are superior to Rustoleum valves, by far. I use Rustoleum because the price is right and it's easy to get, plus the paint is fine. These valves make all the difference.
 
Marty turned me on to these guys. They have some cool colors. I did my first basecoat then 2k clearcoat Saturday. It is remarkably easier and better than rustoleum 2x.

https://usa.specialistpaints.com/collections/kustom-canz-custom-aerosol-cans

I agree with this, use either a white base coat or a fine silver or medium silver if you want a metallic base, lay their Candy Purple over that base, you can adjust the color based on additional coats which will make it darker after each coat. You can fade it as well with other candy colors if you want. My Super Big Bertha used their Candy Blueberry and Candy Black (really a very dark purple), but the first coat looked like robin egg blue and each layer built up the depth.
 

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