Glasspacks' LVL II Build

[Glasspack]

Let me tell all of you with that "Amazing finish" on your model...
My hat is off to you.....!

I know it takes lots of work to
get a nice finish.....

I am still preparing mine for final spray.....and just sanding for 30 minutes my back is sore.
At least it's nice out with a cool rain comming down.
Maybe I'm to old for this **** !
LOL



These shots are after the Rustoleum Filler Primer and 100 grit paper



I will get pictures of the fin can later.....that's harder to sand.
Already knocked it on the garage door overhead, thankfully no damage or marks.

My next coat will be Rustoleum Ultra Bond Primer.....in White. Then another sanding with 150 or 200
grit paper.

The final coats of Red and White
will be Rustoleum Gloss enamel.

Hopefully my graphics from Stickershock are still good

 

[Glasspack]

So this last weekend I was able to finish the initial rounds of sanding and put the White Base Primer on the "Antares IV"

Here she is in the Garage.... I don't have any good shots of it yet. still some work to do, to hide that seam in the lower airframe.





Was a bit scary to have put it in the garage, after painting it in driveway; then opening up the Garage door (Nose Cone back on it)
only to find it leaned way over because it was NOT out of the way of the door once fully open.................





This final shot helps with Scale............ She is over 90" tall




Lots more sanding to do before the final Gloss Coats. I was going to start with 150 grit. Anyone wanna share some finishing thoughts for me?
Should I start with finer paper since this is the final primer before the gloss paint. I see several little flaws like I have one spot of the end of the body tube at the Altimer Bay that got fuzzy. I think I have to sand and seal that with thin CA Glue to harden it a bit before sanding fully. Another one is some blends for the Fillets that are not as nice as I would like. I am sure its true.... we are our own worst critic.

 

[g.pitts]

So this last weekend I was able to finish the initial rounds of sanding and put the White Base Primer on the "Antares IV"

Here she is in the Garage.... I don't have any good shots of it yet. still some work to do, to hide that seam in the lower airframe.


View attachment 586283


Was a bit scary to have put it in the garage, after painting it in driveway; then opening up the Garage door (Nose Cone back on it)
only to find it leaned way over because it was NOT out of the way of the door once fully open.................

View attachment 586284



This final shot helps with Scale............ She is over 90" tall
View attachment 586285



Lots more sanding to do before the final Gloss Coats. I was going to start with 150 grit. Anyone wanna share some finishing thoughts for me?
Should I start with finer paper since this is the final primer before the gloss paint. I see several little flaws like I have one spot of the end of the body tube at the Altimer Bay that got fuzzy. I think I have to sand and seal that with thin CA Glue to harden it a bit before sanding fully. Another one is some blends for the Fillets that are not as nice as I would like. I am sure its true.... we are our own worst critic.

Personally, I'd start WAY finer than 150 grit. I did some finishing this weekend on a build (4.5" IQSY Tomahawk, a fiberglass kit from CW), and I started with 400 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the primed surfaces to smooth out the finish. Your paint should fill in some of the finer scratches in the primer. For dry sanding the paint, I went with 1000 grit sandpaper and it did a nice job of knocking down the rough feel that the initial coat of paint had once it dried. Another coat on top of that and I was in good shape.

I am NOT a painting / finishing expert by any stretch, but this is my advice based on my weekend experience.

<edit> Seeing the tape (which I used this weekend as well) on the weld nuts made me think about a better way to cover them, since I do a crummy job with them using blue painters tape, and it tends to unwrap on me during priming and painting. I have tons of heat-shrink tubing, which would do a much better job. Just cut a ~1" long piece, slide it onto the weld nuts and then heat it so that it can't move. I'm going to add that to my improvement list for future builds.

 

[Glasspack]

I worked on the Nose cone Avionics Bay today. The model has a Mac Performance Avionics Bay designed for nose cones. This one is the 4”x54mm version. The Shoulder Centering Ring sets inside on the lip where the shoulder meets the spot that begins to taper. That ring is epoxied to the cone and is the anchor point for the entire assembly. The majority of the Modification and installment of the Avionics compartment was done long ago. Here are some of the shots from its build……






This one shows the inside FWD Centering ring in place…


Here it is almost assembled, to show you what it looks like. The smaller 54mm bulkhead is glued to the FWD end of the tube and the all thread will pass out through the hole. Mine is designed to allow removable nose weight for customization for different flight configurations if I need it. The sled is just a simple plastic sled from MAC. You can easily see from the last photo, how the white PVC pieces thread together as the avionics is slid into the tube. Yes, I know the Aft Centering ring was Not glued yet in these shots. You can see it on the white piece in the left photo, but it’s not shown in the right photo.





This photo shows how it all goes into the nose cone. By designed it would be epoxied inside the nose cone and then you simply unscrew the white piece with the eyebolt on it…… Very cool.




Instead of permanently gluing it all together and leaving a place between the centering rings where the Shear Pin pieces will be trapped, I decided to use two pieces of “all thread” to lock the rings together and secure it in the nose cone.



Had I thought if this as I built it, I would have put “T-nuts” into the Plywood ring. Like this……


I was worried about the recovery forces… (The two thin pieces of all thread, are not as strong as the eyebolts or quick links used) …. but finally realized, even if the main deployed at 500 mph and the shock cord put all that force on the Nose Cone avionics bay; at worst it shears the plywood or the threaded rod and rips it out of the nose cone. The avionics bay and contents will come down attached to the recovery harness and I will just need a new nose cone.





I drilled two holes in the FWD centering ring purposely to not be in line with any of the three shear pin holes on the shoulder. Attached a lock nut & washer to the end of the rods and cut them “close” to length, as I had to feed them through, from the FWD side of the ring. Then attached washer and a lock washer with a simple nut to lock the “all thread” down. Tools are hard to fit in there and running the nylon lock nut down all the way by hand is NOT possible. I don’t have a 8” deep socket or a decent 3/8” crows’ foot, so I ran those nuts all the way down, by hand, then used an open-end wrench to lock them down.

Here is the final product before I trim the all thread to its final length. I can unscrew the barrel nuts, and it all comes out.


I need to find a good thread lock tight for that Eye Nut in the center. What do you all use to lock threads you don't want to twist loose by accident


Now.....Gotta get my ass in gear and start fine sanding the airframe again

 

[Glasspack]

Ok .....

I did a dumb thing today. I used three toothpicks (instead of the threaded shear pins) to hold the nose cone
to the upper airframe while i was doing some work and fit testing. Then with my back turned the section fell
to the carpet and broke 2 of the toothpicks. So far, I have been unable to pull the little pieces out and so, the
nose cone is essentially locked in place. Pliers and tweezers have not helped so far.... Any suggestions ??

 

[g.pitts]

How about pushing them through?

 

[Glasspack]

G.pitts
That's probably the best option...

All I focused on, was extracting them.
But maybe my scribe or jewelers screwdriver to push them through
is simple option.


Do most builds have to have them rebored and tapped after sanding and painting ?

 

[boatgeek]

G.pitts
That's probably the best option...

All I focused on, was extracting them.
But maybe my scribe or jewelers screwdriver to push them through
is simple option.


Do most builds have to have them rebored and tapped after sanding and painting ?

The drill bit you used for the hole might be enough too. I don’t tap my shear pins holes. I just drill to the next bit size less than the major diameter of the threads and press fit the pins. They push out pretty easily with an awl. It probably is worth re-boring after painting.

 

[Glasspack]

Thanks, I think I will push them through, then just use my really long shear pins to hold it for sanding and final paint. Then I can unthread them and clean the holes

 

[Glasspack]

So my Craftsman Needle File set worked great to just push the pieces on through the tube and nose cone shoulder.
The round file point pushed em right on through !!



No to get on to the final sanding..... and Gloss paint

 

[g.pitts]

So my Craftsman Needle File set worked great to just push the pieces on through the tube and nose cone shoulder.
The round file point pushed em right on through !!

View attachment 587128

No to get on to the final sanding..... and Gloss paint

Nice! Glad it worked out for you.

 

[Glasspack]

Did some sanding after that first coat of primer. The lower airframe Tube joint and the Tailcone/Tube joint is proving to be a challenge. The Tail cone is fiberglass and is slightly larger diameter than the Airframe tube. Got a lot of work ahead to hide them seams properly...…..

So, I revisted some issues and was searching the forum before I asked....

The tailcone joint is still not as hidden as I wish.
I am tempted to carefully use my Dremel and a sanding or grinding drum.
Any of you used tools like that for such tough joints. I will get a picture.......
Does your experience tell you
Sand paper
Is the right choice....?

 

[Tobor]

So, I revisted some issues and was searching the forum before I asked....

The tailcone joint is still not as hidden as I wish.
I am tempted to carefully use my Dremel and a sanding or grinding drum.
Any of you used tools like that for such tough joints. I will get a picture.......
Does your experience tell you
Sand paper
Is the right choice....?

I would not use a rotary tool for that seam. You will end up with lots of divots on the seam. Use a sanding block or a DuBro sanding "T".

 

[Glasspack]

Well I went ahead and tried the Dremel Tool with a sanding drum. Did not like that much.
My Pencil Drive attachment is broken and the basic tool has to be at a slight angle to allow
the drum to reach the area on the Tube I want to grind away. Did not work that well....

I resorted to old fashion sanding .......good ol manual labor, elbow grease and 100 grit paper.
I worked on it for a while before my back started to hurt...... I will wipe it with a damp cloth
and do some more tomorrow. That dam Tail cone Seam is a bastard.......

G.Pitts,
There are some spots that I am not happy with and they require more work than 400 Grit paper would allow.
Turns out, I am sure, I will touch up the White primer after i'm done with this and move on to finish sanding with 400 grit

 

[Glasspack]

I would not use a rotary tool for that seam. You will end up with lots of divots on the seam. Use a sanding block or a DuBro sanding "T".

Thank You Tabor !! I have to agree with you now i just got my new sanding T from Apogee.

 

[Glasspack]

Pretty sure i've solved the worry about the Nose Cone Eye Nut unscrewing itself with recovery harness twisting during descent from altitude.
I have the assembly together with large fender washer on the inside and small flat washers on both ends. A lock washer under the Eye Nut and Red Thread lock from J-B Weld. The entire all thread assembly is now free to rotate with the recovery harness and it should take heat and tools to get this apart.


Now to do more sanding ........

 

[Glasspack]

So it is tedious and messy but it feels good to watch and feel the defects melt away under the sand paper.
I am no greatly skilled modeler by any stretch of the imagination, but it is coming around smoothly......



I sanded and recoated the end of the upper airframe with Thin CA again so that stays re-enforced a little.


Its quite humid outside right now so I will continue to sand it and prep for the final white Primer coat soon, and then 400 grit sand it for the Gloss Coats

 

[Hobie1dog]

Its quite humid outside right now so I will continue to sand it and prep for the final white Primer coat soon, and then 400 grit sand it for the Gloss Coats

i don't spray unless it's below 50% humidity. as you can get "blushing" with high humidity.

 

[Glasspack]

Thanks Hobie1dog ....Today is also really high humidity ....... so high in fact, its raining........

 

[Glasspack]

Well it was a good day to sand the final primer coat. Rain for much of the day, windy and humid then the rain stopped. Sanded it all with 220 paper. Tommorrow is supposed to be nice enough to put the first base coat of gloss white.



Time is going fast.......just over a week and shes supposed to fly.

Kevin,
Dont forget to bring the NAR Level 2 test to LDRS41 for me to take.

 

[Glasspack]

The First two light coats of Gloss White are layed down.
Some Cotton wood fuzz, 3 stuck bugs ... & two fingerprints later ...
Its in the garage out of harms way to dry.
It will be ready for 600 grit paper and more gloss white on Monday.

 

[tsmith1315]

That's going to be a great flight!

 

[Glasspack]

That's going to be a great flight!

Thank You Tsmith,

The bottom section now has the red with some cottonwood fuzz for added detail.......


It will look nice from a distance

A lot of dumb flaws that didn't get all worked out before paint...
Like ......the beveled edge of the fins.


What do people use to seal and smooth the Canvas Phenolic ??
I didn't think it was as simple as Elmer's wood filler sealer, like
many other projects.

I am going to enjoy it ....
regardless of a "less than perfect" finish.

 

[Tobor]

....What do people use to seal and smooth the Canvas Phenolic ??
I didn't think it was as simple as Elmer's wood filler sealer, like
many other projects.

IIRC I used Bondo spot putty to fill the bevels on my 3" BalckFly.

 

[Glasspack]

Dam it I should have tried that !!
....I use that stuff on the fillets and some other spots. Mine is like a reddish clay color.... Well I have no one but my self to blame for the flaws in the finish

 

[Glasspack]

So it's getting close...
I would like to thank my oldest son for his help. He spent, well over an hour Tuesday sanding & painting
the Lower section / Fin Can.

Thanks Chris

I will wait to post the fully
assembled photo with full paint scheme

But here is some of it.....

The red cap on the end protects the motor mount and Slimline Retainer from paint

 

[Glasspack]

Well every one, Thank You all for the help, advice, stories, wisdom, do's & don'ts, photos and overall great support........
I have enjoyed several years of The Rocketry Forum. And another Thank You to my oldest Son for helping paint it
during this time crunch of the last week.

The decals may just have to wait, yesterday, I realized I NEVER ordered the black stripe set from Sticker-Shock when he
made the rest of the Set for my Antares IV.

I feel ready to test, and anxious to fly this 90" upscale. "LVL2 - CERT Attempt 1"
See some of ya at LDRS41

Kevin, Don't forget the NAR Test... LOL

 

[loopy]

Looks great! Good luck!

 

[Glasspack]

The "Antares IV" is now flight ready and waiting patiently. LDRS41 opens in just a handful of hours....
I feel good, yet humbled about my Level 2 attempt.

One of the favorite quotes I've
seen on The Rocketry Forum.....

"A thousand things can happen,
when you push the launch button...
Only one of which is good"

If you have time......wish me luck.

It has taken alot longer to get here than I intended, but,... LIFE happens. My wife has always been supportive and for that, I would like to tell her
"Thank You" I am very grateful.

Also, Thank You to my son Chris,
& my Brother Mike for the help
with the finishing touches.

Thank YOU all for reading along,
for the feedback, help & guidance The support within the Forum has
been great.
I look forward to meeting some of you at LDRS41 soon.

Thank You & God Bless
Paul

 

[OverTheTop]

Good luck with the cert at LDRS Paul. Great looking rocket .