Estes Electrobeam conversion to multi power supplys

Discussion in 'Rocketry Electronics and Software' started by CharlaineC, Feb 2, 2009.

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  1. Feb 2, 2009 #1

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

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    This thread will explain how to safely convert the Estes elecrtobeam launch controller so that it is able to use more than one power supply.

    Before we begin you will need the following tools and items.
    A 40watt soldering iron
    16ga speaker wire
    Heavy battery clamps
    Wire cutters and strippers
    Solder
    Screwdriver
    Two self tapping screws
    Pin vice with bits
    Locking connecters like what is used for NiCad batteries sold at radio shack
    Heat shrink tubes
    A heat sync
    Soldering tool
    small putty knife
    one estes electrobeam controller
     
  2. Feb 2, 2009 #2

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

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    Remove the battery door from the controller. And pull up slightly on the side to find the weak welds.
    Insert the putty knife and slowly break the weld on one side then the other.
    ( if using an older controller unscrew the two screws.)

    100_2111.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2009
  3. Feb 2, 2009 #3

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

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    Take the wire and cut the amount you feel is decent for the power connecter.
    Next separate the two parts of the wire and cut as shown in the first photo


    once the wires are cut and stripped to match the fist photo remove the negative terminal carefully with pliers and solder the negative cable to the spring. as shown in photo 2

    Next unscrew the positive terminal plate and solder the positive wire to the end of the connection as seen in photo 3

    now replace the plate and screw inplace as in photo 4

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  4. Feb 2, 2009 #4

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

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    Next we take the pin vice and bit and carefilly drill through the case at the two crew posts ( pic 1 )

    now replace the cover and turn it over and insert the drill bit into the holes just made and drill a matching hole into and through the cover.

    take the self tapping screws and close up the completed controler.

    100_2073.jpg
     
  5. Feb 2, 2009 #5

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

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    I'm not going to tell you how to make your power connections because its really simple once use the locking clamps. so i'll show you what i did.

    I used heavy 8 ga wire spliced into the 16 ga wire then covered with insulated shrink wrap. connected to positive and neg battery clamps.

    I also used bladed connecters till i can get the locking clips.



    Before useing this controller to launch you must test a few ignighters to besure the curret going through for cont test is not to much. if so you will need to change the bulb to one with more resistence like a led. esp if useing the new quest ignighters.


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    Last edited: Feb 2, 2009
  6. Feb 2, 2009 #6

    Micromeister

    Micromeister

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    Charlaine:
    I just retrofitted one of my old Estes 12V system controllers to eliminate that very problem, continuity check ignition of Quest's Q2g2 igniters.

    While you have your electonbeam contoller unit open simple replace the bulb by soldering an LED/resistor combo of your choice. I used an s-flex (square package) SuperBright 7000mcd Green LED thats designed to run on 3VDC @ 20ma, adapted for 12V use and knocked the current down to 15ma with a 680ohm resistor.
    It's now safe for either Estes or Quest Q2g2 igniters and most electric matches.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2009
  7. Feb 2, 2009 #7

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

    CharlaineC

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    Nice thanks I was going to add that after
     

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