Cj builds new uNiVerSaL Wildman Interstage coupler 4in/54mm

[blackjack2564]

Just in time for Wildman's Black Saturday sale, he is introducing a Universal 4in. to 54mm transition. You will be able to buy it separately, for all your 2-stage, or necked down single stage designs.

What makes this different is the removable av-bay aspect of the design. If using a separation charge from I/S, simply remove av-bay load charge and plug it in.

It fits all Wildman 4in and 54mm tubing new and old. I stuck it in my Booster from Madcow Nike- apache it fit perfect. Opens the doors to all kind of designs and retro-fits.
Perfect to use a 4 in booster, and add any sustainer from Wildman Jr. kits

YES... there will be a new 2 stage kit introduced for the sale, but I don't even know what it is. Wildmans elves are being tight lipped!

Here's what ya get.
Wildman I/S coupler 4x54mm

1 spiral wound cone I/S 12 in. long 4in diam. to 54mm
1 4in. coupler 6.5 in long
1 9in. long 54mm airframe
1 5 in. long 54mm coupler [adjustable]
2 stepped av-bay lids . locations for threaded rod and eye-bolt tabbed [you drill as needed]
1 CR 4in to 54mm.
2.5 inches of 54mm coupler exposed to insert into sustainer when built.


What you add/need to complete:
2 -1/4in. threaded rod 7.5 in. long
nuts- washers
eye-bolt
3 push rivets or screws to keep av-bay in place.


What it looks like.



My Mach-2 sustainer sitting atop Wildman Xtreme fincan.



So lets get started on building it!

 

[Wallace]

While I do love the concept CJ (and Tim), I just can't get over the "look". A transition needs to be straight walled in my mind. I totally understand the idea behind using existing stock, but can you please at least lo0k into making a straight walled version?

 

[Wallace]

Yes, the letter 0 is currently stuck, on my keyb0ard..

 

[Jmhepworth]

I’m thinking 4 inch Darkstar to Darkstar Junior. Perhaps at Airfest, since I’m not planning to launch anything at LDRS. Or maybe Balls.

 

[crossfire]

A tail cone transition

 

[blackjack2564]

Everything in this build that gets glue ......is sanded first!

There are 2 54mm tubes. The 54mm airframe [shorter tube] get glued flush with CR.
Place on flat level surface, insert tube, and fillet mount to CR. with epoxy.
If loose, you may lock in place with a drop of CA before fillet.
The CR has 1/2 in. holes. Don't get glue in them



While glue curing lets assemble coupler/bay.
Drill holes for rods, E-bolt, ejection charge, separation charge etc. whatever you are using for. BP's are already marked/dimpled for 1/4in.
Attach threaded rods
Eye-bolt
The holes are centered to accept Missleworks/Wildman printed sleds.




1/2i. holes are there to allow nutz on BP to go through so av-bay butts flush to CR when glued inside cone.
works like this......

 

[blackjack2564]

After cure drop into cone and draw line around cone where assembly meets wall. Be sure to use coupler and push into place. Look in top of cone, 54 airframe should be approx. ¼ in from top.


Remove assembly and sand 1in. deep from line.


Fillet edge of CR or place glue around interior of cone at/below line previously drawn and SANDED!
I rolled and stuck through holes, some plastic baggie pieces, about 2 in long to keep glue from getting in holes. To be removed 15 minutes after cure begins.


Pic show partial fillet, go all the way around. You may choose to glue interior of cone at line or do CR fillet. Whatever method works best for you, may depend on how runny your glue is.



Place cone on flat, level surface and push assembly into place. Wipe any stray glue off surfaces, and push coupler/av-bay into place, testing fit to be sure it is all the way forward. Remember front of 54mm airframe should be close [ about ¼ in. to front of opening! ] When finished turn cone wide end down, so fillet settles on CR during cure.




Insert bay/coupler into cone. Be sure the nuts on lid are in CR holes, so bay lid is flush with CR! Push and rotate, you will feel them drop into place.
Drill 3 [or4] holes, evenly spaced, for rivets [or screws] and install 1 inch from edge. 5/32 bit for PML style rivets. Slightly filed/opened for proper fit.
Drill properly sized vent holes for altimeter, centered between rivet holes. I used ⅛ in. for Missleworks and Perfectflite CF’s

Any needed holes for switches etc. I do the ½ hole method [3/16 in.], I twist and tape my switch wire for power.
You can’t fish power wire through vents and install.

This I/S coupler acts as nose cone for booster, so add needed shear-pins if applicable.





By having a removable av-bay, if using separation charge from I/S you no longer need to fish charge from inside coupler. Just remove bay ...install charge and place into I/S as complete unit!


Final assembly, take 5 in. section of 54mm coupler and measure/fit to your sustainer.

Mark and glue into place.

Fully adjustable to use with any depth coupler insert, to 54mm sustainers! Wildman does it again.





Leave out the coupler and use motor for coupler on minimum diameter 54mm sustainers!

These instructions will be posted to Wildman site after the sale.
Happy T- day all!!!