Any reason I shouldn't use some old circuit boards for rocket fins/parts? They're all lead free. Some are probably a bit heavy, from the thick planes inside.
Would work but as you said, heavy due to internal copper.Any reason I shouldn't use some old circuit boards for rocket fins/parts? They're all lead free. Some are probably a bit heavy, from the thick planes inside.
Yes, please bits and speed discussion.We still have had little discussion on which router bits work best, or specifics of them. Same goes with router speeds that work best.
Speed of bits is highly variable, in a table mounted router they are going to be based on bit diameter (larger diameter bits at lower rpm due to vibration) feed rate and material, in a handheld tool whats controllable and keeps the bit from loading up. Speed really isnt one size fits all, learn your tool and how you interact with it then tune from there.We still have had little discussion on which router bits work best, or specifics of them. Same goes with router speeds that work best.
I have not had any time to work on the new router yet, coming soon...Wonder what happened to Justin and all his information?
I've watched Justin's thread and saw a recommendation for the Kobalt router table and router. I bought one. I put it together and did not like the router table...
Justin, you are asking for trouble if you are planning to run your stock between the rotating bit and the fence. Definitely not safe and the main reason all commercial router tables like the one you have employ a split fence so you can bury the bit in the fence. Consider what will happen if you slip or the work catches and kicks back. Please rethink your approach and be safe. Your 28,000 rpm router will cheerfully rout your fingers as well as it does g10 or plywood.
Thank you for the feedback.
I've been doing it for 10 years with safe results. While I appreciate the concern I think there is a magic combination from stepped cuts and a steady feed rate. This thread is not intended as a "you should do what I do", but more of an info dump on what has worked for me. As always, YMMV.
Best,
Hence my very obvious disclaimer offered: "This thread is not intended as a "you should do what I do", but more of an info dump on what has worked for me."...and it's important to call out the inherent lack of safety in that approach.
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There's usually a meaning to my madness.
Not only does a tall fence helps keep the fin perpendicular to the table therefore less wobble and maybe keep those fingers a little farther away from the bit.
The fence is easily replaceable, too.
I was thinking about 1/8" FG fins the same way, and how do you not end up with a sharp knife edge after beveling?How do y'all typically deal with thinner (1/16") FG fins? Not much meat for much of a bevel -- least without compromising strength I would expect...
Well, 1/16" is hardly worth the effort IMO. I've used a 5 degree bit on .125 and .0625 G10 with good results, but the 5 degree bits get ground down by the G10 pretty fast. Fin pic below is 0.125" thick G10 with 5 degree bit.How do y'all typically deal with thinner (1/16") FG fins? Not much meat for much of a bevel -- least without compromising strength I would expect...
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