This is looking awesome!
Although I haven’t done what you did on rockets…yet I have on RC airplanes. I had to work with the same thing on a recent RC plane project. While I had the piece gluing and taped I hit it with as much heat as I dared with my heat gun to change its “memory” to the position I had it taped to. Seems to have worked so far!So just before I left on Wednesday, I saw that Spiff's canopy had come loose on the sides. This is .010" clear polystyrene glued with a white glue that bills itself as "canopy glue". Adheres plastic to most anything and dries clear, thus sayeth the bottle. Well, most glues are not as good in tension as shear, so it's been clamped this way since Wednesday about 11:30 AM. I'll let it go until I can work on it again.
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Those little astronauts on the right are to give visual scale to my 1:100 static Saturn V model. I have a Warhammer Insane Detail brush to help me with that...
That’s looking AMAZING! Absolutely love the cockpit!Achingly slow progress, and not the quality that I'd like, but got some red on the body today. The tail cone is going to be a steel color metallic and hopefully bright chrome on the fins.
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Thanks, Joe, the cockpit saves it, but boy did the paint on the body give me grief! Strictly following the 10' rule there, I'm afraid!That’s looking AMAZING! Absolutely love the cockpit!
Much, much thanks! Will proceed as directed, sir! I wondered about possible yellowing, that would be "sub-optimal."I've got extensive experience using FFW on plastic and vacuum-formed canopies. I will tell you it is not worth the effort at this point as there is no guarantee the plastic will remain as clear as it is now. Usually the FFW is used in a "dipping" fashion and allowed to sheet off and leave a thin film. That works the best. When you spray or brush it on, you introduce air to the process and that can cause problems. Spraying is better than flooding it on with a brush. BUT...since you are so far along, I'd go without and just clean it really well before gluing in the bulkhead.
FWIW, using FFW was a way to "seal" the plastic from superglue fumes that would cloud the clarity when gassing off. It turned out to make a nice finish and although it yellows over time, it looks great. Just looking at your picture, I'd say the canopy looks fine and with a little cleaning will look awesome from 10 inches away...certainly closer then the leads on the launch controllers!
This rocket is turning out awesome! Can't wait to see it fly!
suggestion on BreakAway. Mine flew well for a while, but eventually succumbed to E.D.I also but some base coat on two other rockets, my Odd'l Cyclone and Breakaway.
Thanks, I recall seeing your post about that and have resolved to always storing it vertically!suggestion on BreakAway. Mine flew well for a while, but eventually succumbed to E.D.
May want to store it in the deployed position rather than boost mode. Not sure if it will help. Anyway, hope there are no performance issues with your rocket.
Looks great so far, looking forward to see it decalled, but if that’s a word.Thanks to you both! But I hope the decals (if I can get them done anytime this year...) really make it pop!
Awesome work Tom! I love it!Painting the tail cone was done with Testor's flat steel, highlighted around the edges with Testor's flat gunmetal, which perhaps could have been a bit heavier. A separate making was needed to chrome the fins. This also didn't come out quite as well as I'd hoped, and I'm waiting for advice from Alclad. But here's a couple of shots:
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And so I'm substantially done. On to decals and other highlights, and installing the recovery (after my dear beloved sews up the parachute!).
Looks great so far, looking forward to see it decalled, but if that’s a word.
Noticed something interesting on the design. The asymmetric “edge” of the nose cone simulates the tilt on the FarSide cartoon, but I suspect keeps the aim of the tip in line with the direction of flight. Brilliant design by @jflis . Sort of a Kobayashi Maru by Jim (aka per McCoy on STII Wrath of Khan, “he cheated.”). @lakeroadster points this out in HIS model which is indeed truer to the original cartoon dimensions and angles and truly has the cone angled off away from centerline, AND swing tested (hopefully soon to be flown.) Lake may not have needed nose weight, then again not too many models out there with solid non-balsa custom lathed cones.
Good luck on the flight! Hope it isn’t Hobbled too much. (Sorry, I haven’t taken my meds yet today.)
True. I wasn’t very clear (and also wasn’t sure.). I am not surprised the LOCATION is off axis. But can you confirm (or show not true) that the AXIS of the nose cone is PARALLEL to the axis of motor mount?Just for @BABAR ...
the nose block for the BT-50 body tube is right behind Spiff's head.
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So yeah, the point of the nose cone is well off of the thrust vector and axial center of the inner body tube.
No, the axis of the cone is not parallel to the axis of the motor mount. I did a pretty careful analysis of the pattern using Solidworks, and it's about as cattywumpus as it can be. Except for @lakeroadster's build. He's a couple classes above me in both skill and volume of output!True. I wasn’t very clear (and also wasn’t sure.). I am not surprised the LOCATION is off axis. But can you confirm (or show not true) that the AXIS of the nose cone is PARALLEL to the axis of motor mount?
Whereas @lakeroadster ‘s version has EVERYTHING a bit catywampus.
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