7.2v Ni-Cd battery pack for Estes Command Control Launch Controller

[DickyMoe]

I recently found my old Command Control Launch Controller and two 7.2v Ni-Cd battery packs which I last used in 1997 and packed away at that point. Will these batteries still be ok to use after 15 years of inactivity? Are there any safety issues I should be aware of regarding charging old Ni-Cd batteries? Thanks.

 

[JoeG]

Sometimes a very slow charge rate will bring back Ni-Cads but I wouldn't get my hopes up after 15 years. The good news is that they are a lot cheaper than they used to be!!

 

[rokitflite]

I recently found my old Command Control Launch Controller and two 7.2v Ni-Cd battery packs which I last used in 1997 and packed away at that point. Will these batteries still be ok to use after 15 years of inactivity? Are there any safety issues I should be aware of regarding charging old Ni-Cd batteries? Thanks.

I promise you... No. I've had some go bad after a year. I have customers regularly come in with them 3, 4, and 5 years old. All dead. But as Joe says, they are like $8.99 a piece nowadays. Start fresh .

 

[aerostadt]

Get a multi-meter (volt meter, current meter, continuity check, etc.) from Radio Shack. It's good for telling you if batteries are good and a whole lot more.

 

[r12ski]

I use my CC quite often. I brought it into radio shack a while back and they recommended switching to Ni-Mh. About the same price but they charge quicker and hold a charge better/longer. I'm happy with them.

 

[DickyMoe]

I appreciate the responses...thank you. I'll pick up some new Ni-Mhs for the CC.

 

[BEC]

If they really are NiCds (and not NiMH) I would certainly try a slow charge and see. If you have the means to cycle the pack a couple of times, so much the better. I have some NiCds that are that old that are just fine. That said, if you see white powder around the positive terminal of any cell or the negative wire is corroded, then it's off to the hazardous waste site with the pack.

NiMhs, on the other hand, seem to die in a year or two regardless of how they are stored or treated - especially cheap Chinese cells.

 

[r12ski]

So your post got me thinking. I really love the Command Control launcher. The audible beep. The two buttons. Extra-large key. Love it. That's why I have 3 of them (but only two keys )

There are very few things I would criticize about it, but one thing would be the weight. That's because the two battery packs, whether NiCD or NiMh, weigh ≈ 1.5 lbs. So I started looking at replacing them with LiPo or LiFePo4 (A123). I already have an excellent balancing charger setup I use for electric planes, so that isn't a factor. I was looking at getting two of these when they are back in stock: Turnigy nano-tech 3000mAh 2S1P 20~40C LiFePo4 Receiver Pack. The benefit being that these are pretty much a straight swap for the 133mm Tamiya 7.2v R/C batteries, they weigh HALF as much, and unlike an equivalent LiPo, they don't need a low voltage monitor.

My question is for someone who knows about batteries and is familiar with the controller: Should I go with swapping out two 7.2v NiCd packs for two equivalent LiPo/LiFe packs, or should I modify the controller to work with a single battery pack? If so, what configuration would you recommend?

There is not a lot of detail on the controller, besides the instruction sheet. It says that it "can deliver in excess of 100 watts of instantaneous electrical ignition power," and that it is designed to use either one or two standard 6-cell 7.2v 1.2Ah hobby NiCd battery packs.

 

[shreadvector]

Can you all wait a few weeks?

https://www.estesrockets.com/002240-pro-series-iitm-launch-controller

https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/est/est2240.htm

https://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showpost.php?p=164662&postcount=5

 

[r12ski]

I know about the new one. I'm looking to retrofit the old one. Also, I would prefer not to have to buy C-cell alkalines by the dozens.

 

[shreadvector]

The new controller has a battery connector for the new style LiPo batteries, so buying C alkalines is not necessary.

I've used NiCads in my Command Controller and also built a simple cable with battery clips on the end so I can connect it to any battery, such as a car battery.

I know about the new one. I'm looking to retrofit the old one. Also, I would prefer not to have to buy C-cell alkalines by the dozens.

 

[r12ski]

The new controller has a battery connector for the new style LiPo batteries, so buying C alkalines is not necessary.

I've used NiCads in my Command Controller and also built a simple cable with battery clips on the end so I can connect it to any battery, such as a car battery.

That's good to know.

I've come up with a solution using a battery pack I already own. I will be using a single 2C 7.4 2200 mAh Lipo. All I needed to get was Tamiya to XT60 adaptor and a low voltage alarm. Total cost $5.41.

The new setup — battery, adaptor and alarm — comes in at 5.1 oz., compare that to the 23 oz. of two lipos and that’s a big difference.

 

[Scott_mills]

I recently got these 2 controllers in a lot at a thrift store with 2 7.2v nicads. IE the 2234 E2 and 2236 command contoller . My question to you is, what charger and where can I get it to fit the 5MM charging ports on the back ? And How to connect a car battery to either of them? A picture Would be extra helpful .

 

[bobkrech]

That's good to know.

I've come up with a solution using a battery pack I already own. I will be using a single 2C 7.4 2200 mAh Lipo. All I needed to get was Tamiya to XT60 adaptor and a low voltage alarm. Total cost $5.41.

The new setup — battery, adaptor and alarm — comes in at 5.1 oz., compare that to the 23 oz. of two lipos and that’s a big difference.

It should work for Estes and Quest igniters if the clips are clean, but it may not work with other igniters. If your igniters require a lot of current and/or have a high resistance, you might not be able to deliver sufficient current to promptly actuate the igniter. V/R = 7.4 volts / R ohms = I amps

Bob