New scratch build, X-Plane SST

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Jim ,I`ve used my router table several times to machine the leading edges ,but I use a chamfering bit or an angled sled and straight bit to give more bevel.I just find you really have to go slow (it may burn a bit ,but no harm) but most importantly (and I know you know this already) I pay attention to grain and how it`s running in the outside layer of the plywood.I also try to start and stop near the tips to prevent tear out.

Of course ,nothing is perfect ,so that`s what sandpaper and Bondo is for........our favorite job LOL

The mockup with the fins and BT looks pretty awesome BTW !


Paul t
 
It took me a while to relearn how to set up the router. I even forgot where the on-off switch was! But I got it all figured out. The bits I bought included 1/8" and 1/4" radius roundovers, with pilot bearings. I thought it would be a relatively simple thing to adjust the height of the bit, then let the plywood follow the bearing. But apparently the pilot bearings aren't designed for use with such thin stock. As you can see, it caught and chewed up the edge several times. The first time was when I ran the tip of the material into the cutter, but it also did it when I'd start in the middle of the edge.

Failed experiment. I can sand the edges of the fins round on the stationary belt sander, and hand sand the wings. I still might try the router on some 3/8" fins for an upcoming project.

I used a radius bit and the fence on my router table to round the edges on the 1/4" thick plywood fins for my 7.5" upscale Fat Boy. It worked really well, you just need to practice getting the height of the bit correct for the thickness of the fin material.
 
You can use a fence with a roundover bit. If you do, you can use a bit with diameter larger than your fin's thickness. You can raise the bit so that the bottom of the flute is at the same height as the table. When you run thinner stock through it, you get a flatter, sharper edge instead of round.

Ari.
 
I used a radius bit and the fence on my router table to round the edges on the 1/4" thick plywood fins for my 7.5" upscale Fat Boy. It worked really well, you just need to practice getting the height of the bit correct for the thickness of the fin material.

You can use a fence with a roundover bit. If you do, you can use a bit with diameter larger than your fin's thickness. You can raise the bit so that the bottom of the flute is at the same height as the table. When you run thinner stock through it, you get a flatter, sharper edge instead of round.

Ari.

Normally, I would use a fence. But I can't, with the inside angles of the wings.
 
Got the fin edges rounded. They're good enough for who they're for. And using my fin alignment jig, I got them epoxied on.

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For the first time, my fin jig let me down. There's just not enough clearance for the long leading edges of the wings. So I decided to make a fin gauge. Well, that obviously didn't work out. I haven't decided what to do yet.

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I decided to try the fin jig again, this time closing my mouth and breathing through my nose. I got it to just *barely* fit. I may have to live with the 1 degree after all, but I think it's close enough.

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They're not perfect, but they'll do. I don't think it'll affect flight stability.

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Jim, That looks great. Don't sweat it. Only the artist will ever notice.
 
Jim, I applaud your perfectionism. Personally, I feel it's OK to be off by a couple of degrees, but I admire that you worry about that.

Ari.
 
Looks good, Jim. A degree here or there isn't a show stopper. It's going to be very hard to see at 1500' and a couple of hundred miles an hour.

Noticed you were working on your stove top again. That's one way to get around the cold garage/workshop temps!
 
Looks good, Jim. A degree here or there isn't a show stopper. It's going to be very hard to see at 1500' and a couple of hundred miles an hour.

Noticed you were working on your stove top again. That's one way to get around the cold garage/workshop temps!

Well, the real reason I was working on my stove top is because there's not enough room on my workbench. :blush:
 
You know, between the two wings and the three fins, there are a lot of fillets!

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They look great Jim. Whats the paint scheme? All black like in your 1st post?
 
Man Jim is that one beautiful rocket,I don't know how I missed this thread,I'm going to have to ship you different parts once in a while to keep you going.LOL.This will keep you out of trouble.Merry Christmas my good friend.
 
Man Jim is that one beautiful rocket,I don't know how I missed this thread,I'm going to have to ship you different parts once in a while to keep you going.LOL.This will keep you out of trouble.Merry Christmas my good friend.

No more parts! I have enough projects to keep me busy for a year! LOL

But thanks for the nose cone! This is turning out to be a pretty sexy rocket!
 
No more parts! I have enough projects to keep me busy for a year! LOL

But thanks for the nose cone! This is turning out to be a pretty sexy rocket!

Well you know there's always the Easter Bunny!And your welcomed,you have been a great friend and we are very lucky to have you on this forum.Keep up the great builds my friend.
 
Time for the nose weight. I cut a big hole in the bottom of the nose cone for access, and drilled through the tip and put two bamboo skewers in it. They will keep the resin in place after it sets.

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The nose cone is heavier than Open Rocket thought, so I only need 12 oz of weight in it. I wrapped the end of the nose cone with Press n Seal so water can't seep into it while the resin sets.

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I suspend the end of the nose cone in water to keep it cool. Setting resin can generate considerable heat. Enough heat, I've been told, to melt the plastic. I'm not taking any chances. I think the BB's are going to work very well.

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I almost missed the "CAPT LOW-N-SLOW" on the decal sheet. LOL!

Thanks for the How-To on your patented bamboo skewer technique. I'll be making use of it for my Madcow Squat's nosecone. BTW, I like the "Milestone" vinyl and will be placing an order with Mark@Stickershock for the same stuff but I want one that says "SKWAT".

Merry Christmas, Jim.
 
I almost missed the "CAPT LOW-N-SLOW" on the decal sheet. LOL!

Thanks for the How-To on your patented bamboo skewer technique. I'll be making use of it for my Madcow Squat's nosecone. BTW, I like the "Milestone" vinyl and will be placing an order with Mark@Stickershock for the same stuff but I want one that says "SKWAT".

Merry Christmas, Jim.

I've used the bamboo skewer technique before, with good results. The decals Mark made are amazing, as usual.

Merry Christmas to you too Kit, and to everyone here!
 
Merry Christmas Jim. Love what your doing with the design. Can't wait to see it completed! Keep up the good work!
 
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