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Upgrade NowDo you have the STL file for the case? I just ordered the voice and GPS modules and the case I'm using now for the LCD receiver isn't big enough to fit everything now.This is the year I am modernizing my rocket tracking from beacon only to GPS. Will document my LDRS project here since the electronics will be the hero.
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It's a Black Aero Pro Case available for sale on their website. It is well worth it for all the hardware/switches/connectors.Do you have the STL file for the case? I just ordered the voice and GPS modules and the case I'm using now for the LCD receiver isn't big enough to fit everything now.
Looks tidy. What kind of Lipo are you using?Here is current progress of my Eggfinder. It fits in a 29mm tube I’ve installed in the nose one of a couple rockets. Still some tidying up on the battery and power connections.
I'm assuming these are your first attempt at making chutes. With the scissors in the pic, I also assume you cut the ripstop with the scissors.Realizing I could be credibly accused of project managing this 2 stager instead of building it, impulse bought some ripstop nylon while shopping with my daughter at Jo Anns and decided to take a shot at recovery for first time. Thanks to Black Aero, (receiver case) Raythain, (Quasars assembly) and the guy or gal that posted the .stl file for the fin alignment tool. Also most likely my daughter for when I need help with the sewing machine to get these shroud lines on. Promise to be back on electronics topic next post.
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Thanks Handeman, would have used a hot knife if I had one in stock. The perimeter stitch should take care of fraying concerns and added a nice cup shape. Ive lost some chutes but never to cow slobber! Next post will be super heavy on electronics and software.I'm assuming these are your first attempt at making chutes. With the scissors in the pic, I also assume you cut the ripstop with the scissors.
My recommendation, after building a number of chutes, is to always cut the nylon with a hot knife so the edges melt together. Also, make sure you roll and sew the seams along the edges very well because the ripstop nylon will fray and do so easily. You need to make sure the seam is closed and fraying can't start.
I once threw a chute I had made by cutting the edges of the ripstop with a scissors into the wash machine after a cow had chewed and slobbered all over it. It came out as shroud lines with a huge tangle of threads attached. There was nothing left of the ripstop.
When you attach the shroud lines, use a narrow zigzag and make sure one side of the zigzag goes through the shroud line. Then repeat on the other side with the other side of the zigzag going through the shroud. If you just zigzag over the shroud line, it will pull out from under the threads.
Good luck, learn lots, and have fun. That's what it's all about.
Any cheap 35W soldering iron will work. I pounded the tip of mine flatter, but any hot tip will work.Thanks Handeman, would have used a hot knife if I had one in stock.
I like the fin alignment guide . Who wakes them or is it 3D printed ?Rocksim checked out so I got to work. Did a wee thin layer of CF between 1/16 balsa for booster fins. Don't worry, will get back to electronics soon.View attachment 629602
Printed. It is a nice design that allows for slightly different fin thickness and body tube diameters.I like the fin alignment guide . Who wakes them or is it 3D printed ?
Recommend SteelyEyed and Shrox for cool rocket designs.do you have any other designs ? I would love to see them
Drag separation can be made easier. After having motors come up to pressure with the booster still attached, had caused some very scorched interstage couplers and scorched aft ends of sustainers. No matter how loose the fit was. It wasn't until the coupler was vented that separation became more reliable.Since drag separation is always a little dicey to predict, will try to find a combo that will work for sep and non sep scenarios.
I can see it and I'll take your advice on the baffle. Only have a couple bucks in the cardboard/balsa booster but would like to make it re usable if possible.
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