What did you do rocket wise today?

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What laser cutter is that? I'd love to have a laser cutter that'll do balsa (and maybe up to 1/4" ply). I've been thinking about modifying my old FolgerTech Prusa clone to cut wood fins.
its an ortur laser master 2 5.5 watt, but their new 10watt is awesome.

mine will cut 1/4 inch plywood but takes about 10 passes. this was 4mm baltic birch with 5 passes. each fin took 5 minutes to cut
 
Attended a club launch and flew a number of new builds as well as some that have been sitting around awaiting first flights. Flew 11 flights. 8 were a complete success, 1 cracked a fin when it landed in my truck bed (I have witnesses). another, my upscale Falcon Commander cracked a tail fin when the chute detached and it tumbled back down and the last was my 2.5 Pegasus Upscale that came in ballistic due to a failed ejection on an F44-4. Will be doing an autopsy and rebuild on that in the original build thread. It will live again.

While clearly not my best day, overall not a bad. Everything is repairable.

Forgot to get a launch pad pic of some of them but did remember to get at least a few landing pics. Here are a few of the pics I remembered to take.

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Talked with Mr. Eggtimer Saturday and he affirmed I can use a 9v battery to power a Quark. Thanks to the 9v battery guru poster (can't find the thread right now) I ordered the Amazon version. I dug out an old bird and will rip out the old alt but keep my power bay and RBF pins. Pics maybe, but next week.Still jumping thru hoops getting ready for ROC in Lucerne this weekend. Like a long tailed cat in a rocking chair factory. Still driving around with all the camp gear still on board, like I could be homeless any minute. This keeps up, my wife may get the house. "No more rocket motors, you have enuff"....hah, that'll work for a heartbeat. I'm seeing my pusher, er, authorized dealer (see what I did there?). Maybe I can hide them in the chute bag? If you see a pop-up flying the Stars and Stripes with a pirate flag below it on Saturday, drop by and say hi!
Straight smoke and good chutes!
 
i just screwed up the $6.00 worth of Testors florescent paint on the Astron Mark. I tried to paint the NC black and wrapped the rocket in saran wrap. the black paint got under the film.:facepalm:🤬 Now I'm just going to sand most of it off and paint it red.:( Today SUCKS
 
Assuming DBRM-based, are you painting the bottom of the cone yellow or simply going with a longer-than-usual-for-Goblin black cone?
Longer than usual. Not a purist if I can say that for a rocket that hasn’t been released yet. 😁
The Estes tube is 23.75in with overall 36in. I figure I have the option of cutting the tube down 2.5in.

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Longer than usual. Not a purist if I can say that for a rocket that hasn’t been released yet. 😁
The Estes tube is 23.75in with overall 36in. I figure I have the option of cutting the tube down 2.5in.
Looking forward to your results! Build thread by chance?

I'm wondering if that catalog image isn't simply a rendering or photochop like many in the past and the instructions will actually show painting the aft few inches of the cone yellow. There would be a seam in the yellow in that case, but would be hard to tell from the flight line.

If in fact it uses a new cone, I'll probably buy the kit. If not, I may paint a DBRM cone in two segments; I may chop a DBRM cone, build a new shoulder, and fair the aft end of the cone back to body diameter; or I may decide do hold off on a 3" Goblin until my pre-ordered Prusa Mk. 4 arrives and I have gotten up to speed with CADing nose cones (the latter of which will likely be a far longer wait), in which case I might use 3.1" OD tubing instead of the 3" OD Estes/BMS tubes.
 
Looking forward to your results! Build thread by chance?

I'm wondering if that catalog image isn't simply a rendering or photochop like many in the past and the instructions will actually show painting the aft few inches of the cone yellow. There would be a seam in the yellow in that case, but would be hard to tell from the flight line.

If in fact it uses a new cone, I'll probably buy the kit. If not, I may paint a DBRM cone in two segments; I may chop a DBRM cone, build a new shoulder, and fair the aft end of the cone back to body diameter; or I may decide do hold off on a 3" Goblin until my pre-ordered Prusa Mk. 4 arrives and I have gotten up to speed with CADing nose cones (the latter of which will likely be a far longer wait), in which case I might use 3.1" OD tubing instead of the 3" OD Estes/BMS tubes.
Indeed. Maybe it’s a regular Goblin with the DBRM cone photochopped on top.
 
Received a 5.5" Polecat Phoenix that I found on Ebay. I took a gamble since only the box was shown and it looked a bit ratty; however, kit was in EXCELLENT condition!
Like new and unopened...everything was in paper wrap and looked amazing. 🤩
Plus the forward fins came already airfoiled at the leading edges!
 
Received a 5.5" Polecat Phoenix that I found on Ebay. I took a gamble since only the box was shown and it looked a bit ratty; however, kit was in EXCELLENT condition!
Like new and unopened...everything was in paper wrap and looked amazing. 🤩
Plus the forward fins came already airfoiled at the leading edges!
Lucky, er, Coyote!
 
Last Saturday I finished up building the 19 high power motors my wife Sharon and I plan to fly at NSL in Alamosa, Co. later this month. Reference post #42,982 on page 1433 of this thread.
Then I started in on the 15 research motors we plan to fly with NCR the first weekend of June. Snap ring motors are a bit more complex to build, so I prefer to build them here in Goodyear where I have all my stuff. I first build them in Burnsim, entering the nozzle size, grain length and check to make sure it matches up to my Tru-core chart. Then I assemble all the parts, cut the liner and dry fit it in the casing. Then I take it apart and glue the grains, add orings and grease it up.
Since Saturday, i have built nine motors, two motors were already built, and I have four more to finish.
Yesterday started off a bit rough, I misplaced two 75mm casing and spent over an hour hunting them down. Sharon took the day off from the office and prepped several low power and a couple of her high power rockets. Here is a pic of what we have ready so far:

5-8-23 rockets.jpg

These are the motors I have built for the two launches we are doing in Colorado this summer:
commercial and research motors.jpg

I'm also posting up our progress in another thread here:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/whatcha-preppin-for-nsl-2023.179710/#post-2429042
 
A little more work on an Estes Twin Factor. Construction has been moved to my range table where I can spill all the CA glue I want.

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Not sure why the instructions say to align the fins with the template, the slots in the ring would probably make a better jig. Just slide the tube in and make the glue joint…

25AFD402-E361-473D-8BEC-D55375CCFA66.jpeg

I see why now, it makes independent adjustment impossible!

Doing it the instructed way now.

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Installed in the ring. Much easier than anticipated. Now just to designate a booster and sustainer, and not mix them up

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Done!

Just gotta get it some paint now when I get a chance. Fun quickie build.
 
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I finished an Estes rocket that actually looks like the picture on the box.. something I never would have imagined as a kid. Evidently I'm having a second childhood at 64.

Also, started building my Wildman Journey 75 yesterday.. building up my sanding muscles.

P. S. I'm new here, so howdy.
Hello and welcome to the forums.

Got my level 2 flying my PML Andromeda on a J250W at MDRA's May Launch. Unfortunately my cheap Estes altimeter malfunctioned so I don't have a true altitude, but Rocksim showed 4180', and that seems about right. Those trees in the background are 1600 feet away from the launchpad, and I landed 40 feet shy of them. VERY lucky!
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Congrats, now you can burn your disposable income at Mach+ speeds.... :p
 
Got my level 2 flying my PML Andromeda on a J250W at MDRA's May Launch. Unfortunately my cheap Estes altimeter malfunctioned so I don't have a true altitude, but Rocksim showed 4180', and that seems about right. Those trees in the background are 1600 feet away from the launchpad, and I landed 40 feet shy of them. VERY lucky!
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Agree on the BS Estes altimeter. Mine failed to be accurate this past weekend.....now in the trash. Any suggestions out there for A good one?
 
I've yet to try Duplicolor on a model, but I used some last Summer on the wheel covers on my car, and I think it's the best rattle can paint I've ever used.

That's a nice color of red.
 
I've yet to try Duplicolor on a model, but I used some last Summer on the wheel covers on my car, and I think it's the best rattle can paint I've ever used.

That's a nice color of red.
Thanks and that's cool feedback!

Only tricky part is that you need a VERY smooth base followed by chrome or silver and any imperfections will show. On the other side I have sanding and drip marks, but that side will be the back. :p

Of course the body of the rocket is experiencing extreme black base coat paint issues (drips, splatter, crinkling, orange peel) UGH.

Up close the red anodized paint doesn't look as great as farther away. From across the room it really catches the eye.
 
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I apply the same logic that I use with my RC planes.. you can't see it when it's in the air.
 
I apply the same logic that I use with my RC planes.. you can't see it when it's in the air.
A lot of us gauge finish quality by distance. This is a ten foot finish, that's a thirty foot finish, and so on. A three foot finish is quite good, better than I usually manage. Based on the photo, I think that nose cone (the visible side) has a six inch finish. :hats_off:
 
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