Estes igniters are the absolute worst. Fortunately, BP is pretty easy to get jump started and burning.Had multiple duds due to igniters burning but not igniting the motors. They were. Carefully seated. Estes igniters and motors. Are there other brands? What’s your favorite?
This raises a relevant question for the OP: what launch controller were you using when you had the igniter failures?Instead of messing with different ignitors, I recommend getting the PSII Launch Controller and using a 3S lipo battery. In over 100 launches since I became a BAR, I haven't had a single failure to fire using the standard white-tipped ignitors. A bit more expensive, but in my opinion a lot less of a hassle than messing with homebrew solutions.
To date, I have NEVER had an Estes ignitor fail to start the motor, and I've been flying these things since 1970 or so!Had multiple duds due to igniters burning but not igniting the motors. They were. Carefully seated. Estes igniters and motors. Are there other brands? What’s your favorite?
Instead of messing with different ignitors, I recommend getting the PSII Launch Controller and using a 3S lipo battery. In over 100 launches since I became a BAR, I haven't had a single failure to fire using the standard white-tipped ignitors. A bit more expensive, but in my opinion a lot less of a hassle than messing with homebrew solutions.
I've been testing the PSII controller (just with dry cells, not a LiPo) and it's working well with the 'new' Estes white ignitors and have had good 2x cluster results - only one fail and that was my fault.
Good controllers make for good flights. More power = betterer
I dug up a bottle of Testor's Aluminum that I happened to have... do you think it is likely to perform similarly to the silver? I don't know if they use different types of metal in there for the different colors or what... would be funny though if the silver paint uses aluminum and the aluminum paint doesn't...I found a post elsewhere on the forum to dip Estes igniters in Testor's silver paint. There are aluminum flecks in the paint. Significantly increases the thermal output. Cheap. One little bottle will enhance a thousand igniters. No extra steps required, just dip and dry. No BP required. Easy-peasy.
That's a good idea.Best thing to do is just try one. Dip it and let it dry. I tested it by sticking the igniter leads into a 2S LiPo battery connector (or touch them to a 9v battery's terminals). No need to drag out your launch controller. Do it in the garage and wear gloves.
To date, I have NEVER had an Estes ignitor fail to start the motor, and I've been flying these things since 1970 or so!
Now you can call me lucky, or crazy, or a flat-out liar, but I'm being serious here; I have certainly had OTHER failures with Estes products (always my own fault in the end), but never a failure of an Estes ignitor to start my motor!
To add to Neil's response and what I mention in a previous post........hey Nichrome wire with you forming a coil always works off a 12 v lantern battery, back in 1960s/70s......so my guess is...pyrogen was added so controllers could use smaller "AA" batteries and maybe to aid in clustering engines. So why, deal with all the hassle. BUT i will try the trick about dipping in Testor's silver paint.....simple easy...no issues in acquiring the paint.This raises a relevant question for the OP: what launch controller were you using when you had the igniter failures?
I will say for myself: when launching with a club running off a 12V system, I've had maybe one failure ever with the Estes igniters. Nonetheless I do look forward to the new "energetic" variety.
I dipped 8 in my aluminum paint tonight, and will try firing a couple when I get a chance. I'm hoping it works the same as the silver.BUT i will try the trick about dipping in Testor's silver paint.....simple easy...no issues in acquiring the paint.
Absolutely not a fan of the Testors dip. It's an acrylic paint with some embedded (low concentration) metallicI dipped 8 in my aluminum paint tonight, and will try firing a couple when I get a chance. I'm hoping it works the same as the silver.
I have to say, dipping the igniters in the little paint bottle was weirdly enjoyable.
Post with your resultsI dipped 8 in my aluminum paint tonight, and will try firing a couple when I get a chance. I'm hoping it works the same as the silver.
I have to say, dipping the igniters in the little paint bottle was weirdly enjoyable.
It would never even enter the "bottom 10" of igniter pyrogens to consider. But maybe better than Estes cornstarch/glue white solar igniters--but that's a super low hurdle.
All said, if it works for you great! If it doesn't, PM me and we'll have you firing BP and APCP motors for pennies instead of dollars. Simples!!!
And no, I am not in the business of making money from this. I just am happy to share proven formulations/designs. I don't wait one or two seconds for a motor to fire when I press the button--it's instantaneous. Every single time.
Peace.
I love reading comments about how bad Estes igniters are. And then I wonder, what are you doing wrong to make these claims? I have boxes full of Estes igniters just from the extras they give in the motor packages. Mine always work unless I've managed to break them or accidentally short them out. Hundreds of perfectly successful launches on their igniters. I've had worse luck with composite motor igniters due to them being brittle.
I just don't get it.
Depends on your NC source. Nitrocellulose burns very quickly in some formats (think loose, high-nitration flash paper) and very slowly in other formats (some low-nitration true celluloid ping-pong balls, some fingernail polishes, expensive guitar lacquers), and moderately in regulated-speed, high-purity, high-nitration, chemically-stabilized comps like smokeless powder. Dissolved in acetone or MEK and dipped, burn rate will be a function of NC starting quality (purity and nitration level), but in any event will be much much better than the acrylic Testors paints (with miniscule amounts of metals added). Smokeless powder is the best source and is cheap and easily acquired in the US--it already is highly-nitrated and contains stabilizers (usually diphenylamine) so it lasts for years. Homemade NC is neither a difficult nor especially dangerous project, but quality control is difficult, and a decent chemistry background is essential. Importantly, homemade NC is usually fraught with impurities and lacks important stabilizing agents that prevent it from degrading over time--sometimes it's quality notably deteriorates within weeks. Fun for making small amounts for chemistry projects to wow the kids--flashcotton is actually pretty cool. But not really useful for igniters. But don't waste your time if using for serious purposes such as rocket igniters. Please visit this site for an intro into NC and examples of nitration levels expected in various products: https://www.islandpyrochemical.com/nitrocellulose-based-propellants/How do you feel about dipping the tip in Nitrocellulose Lacquer? Not the most common to find in the hardware store anymore but not hard to find either.
They're delicate, have had decent pyrogen replaced with kaka cornstarch/glue, and are overpriced. That said, they "usually" work, and oftentimes failures are due to operator error. But there are failures, product failures, too. Which is why they give extras in motor packages (some, no longer).I love reading comments about how bad Estes igniters are. And then I wonder, what are you doing wrong to make these claims? I have boxes full of Estes igniters just from the extras they give in the motor packages. Mine always work unless I've managed to break them or accidentally short them out. Hundreds of perfectly successful launches on their igniters. I've had worse luck with composite motor igniters due to them being brittle.
I just don't get it.
Absolutely agree. And they're making a hot profit on breaking down standard pyro chems (cheap by the pound) into rocketry igniter-dipping kits, which is fine. I'm lucky enough to already be in the fireworking hobby, so these chems are standard and used already in comparatively large quantities.Estes igniters augmented with quickdip. Works every time, including for clusters. You don't want misfires at a club launch; it can cost you a lot of time.
Enter your email address to join: