S200 ANGARA/SA-5 GAMMON Build, Finally!!!

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If you aren't a wood working craftsman, you don't need a workbench, a measurement pad, or a panel with holes in it to hold your tools. Working around the house is perfectly fine, it's what I do, just stay organized :)

But you should definitely buy a band saw and belt sander if you make parts often, they make working a breeze.

You can buy bandsaws real cheap nowadays,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400976849799?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

I am lucky to have a full sized band saw in my garage, I find them so much easier to work with rather than the miniature band-saws.


I used to have my whole living room set up nicely for building rockets, but I am in the process of trying to fix up my house so I can sell it and get a new one, which meant I had to take everything and put it in storage.

I DO NEED a workbench, using the kitchen counter and whatnot breaks my already broken back, and is not going to work, especially for a build of this scale.

I already have the plan for the new bench, and it has a hinged surface so that it can fold away when not in use.
I just need the right surface.

I DEFINITELY NEED a workbench to build rockets.


I should have something put together within a week.
 
I used to have my whole living room set up nicely for building rockets, but I am in the process of trying to fix up my house so I can sell it and get a new one, which meant I had to take everything and put it in storage.

I DO NEED a workbench, using the kitchen counter and whatnot breaks my already broken back, and is not going to work, especially for a build of this scale.

I already have the plan for the new bench, and it has a hinged surface so that it can fold away when not in use.
I just need the right surface.

I DEFINITELY NEED a workbench to build rockets.


I should have something put together within a week.

Ah, I see. Sounds good.
 
I almost had the perfect surface the other day, but when I brought it to the counter of the store I found it at, they recognized it as part of one of their shelving displays, so it was not for sale.:(
I'll possibly go searching again tomorrow.

I'de prefer to get something for free/close to free, than have to break down and go to the lumber store to buy something.
 
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I got my BMS order today, and realized I'll need more balsa. I should be set on tubes however to maintain a "Beta Model" off screen as a test platform. I don't see the harm in having a secondary initial design platform concurrently running alongside the originally intended prototype model.
If nothing more than a pin cushion for practicing my blade-craft on, or maybe even an alternative paint scheme, it seems worthwhile to build two of this model. There may be points in the theorizing of the design when I wish to go on two separate paths. A fin cross-sectional profile or a detail left off for stability's sake, like the oddball booster that faces the ground when in the trans-loader and launcher.
On the real deal, you have the four boosters, balancing the sustainer between them, so the aerodynamic discrepancy of that ugly boot horn thing is not the same as it is when you only have thrust being generated by the central sustainer section of the rocket.
This will be accounted for by possibly leaving the boot horn off.
You would most likely not even know it was there if you had not read the schematic.
 
These are fun.
What a cool site! I definitely need to learn more about this CAD stuff. I imagine it would be quite useful for making paper parts or making designs I could easily have 3D printed.


Exploded Views 2003-01-01 004.jpgExploded Views 2003-01-01 001.jpgExploded Views 2003-01-01 009.jpg


And then there is the boot horn thing:

Exploded Views 2003-01-01 008.jpg
 
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I went to Staples and had enlargements made. They could not get the sustainer schematic any larger, so I still have to do a little bit of math(NOT GOING TO HAPPEN), but the booster enlargement is BT-55 scale, as I gave the girl a section of BT-55 to use for sizing it correctly.
I gave her a chunk of BT-80, but I should have cropped the picture, as she made the whole schematic and I don't really need the Rear View.

Total cost, $10.25. I'll be using them again.:)

I also went and bought shelving material to use as a work surface.

Enlargements From Staples. 2003-01-01 001.jpg
 
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I have cropped the schematic I need for the BT-80 parts, and will return to Staples for round two of enlargement.

The sustainer schematic I got today will make a sweet poster.
 
I just completed some progress on the Nose Cone.
Made from chopping a LOC Precision 2.6" Nose Cone from my Viper III, I will use a 110# cardstock transition to fuse the two pieces, but first I need to paper the bottom/shoulder portion, so that when the exact position and top dead center is achieved, the two cardstock surfaces can become one through the Miracle of super-thin CA.:)
After the paper transition had been made several times, in several different sizes and proportions on cheap 20# copy paper, and tried on the actual pieces, I got the size right, then traced that Payloadbay transition template onto 110# cardstock.
I say traced, because for each one that I made as a mock-up, I went through the motions of preparing them as if they were 110# cardstock, to play with my new X-Acto "Z Series" #11 blades and handle.
I can draw nice things with this one!:) I recommend it.
After the transition was tacked to the top portion, I breathed on the inside of it, well after the CA had cured, like 60 minutes or more. Just a few breaths rendered the un-treated portion of the transition supple enough to be massaged into perfect round.
I sanded the edges of the paper, but that was just to clean up my blade angles.
The transition area will get a matching fiberglass transition superimposed upon it for strength, meaning no additional support on the inner walls is necessary. This will also allow for ample area to build up with putty for shaping by sanding.
Any and all nose weight that may be necessary, even if just for added safety margin, can be confined to the body of the nose cone itself, as filler, rather than a big solid chunk of epoxy and lead in the tip of the nose.
That ought to make the safety folks happy.
While it would be unexpected that the rocket might suffer an anomoly, the possibility must be prepared for, and having a model that stays stable even if something happens is a good idea. Likewise, if the nose is just plastic, lightweight glasscloth and a little bondo putty, it is more likely to shatter if it hits something solid, rather than penetrate.
In my Mindsim, the rocket hits a Bird on the way up, on a G80. The Bird becomes impaled on one or more of the boosters, and then the rocket takes an abrupt turn and does something dangerous.
Since an untested rocket of this size can in theory be quite dangerous, we will have some built in stability and safety margins that will make RSOs and Miesters everywhere happy.
I know why my building techniques make you sad, but trust me, I get it, and will not take any risks with safety of others or myself.
I don't fly at "Clubs", though I may like to some day, and I usually just have me and my Son at my launches.
It'll have a crumple zone like a car, to protect the body of the rocket.

Anyhow, on to the Pics':

SA-5 Nose Cone Transition. 2003-01-01 001.jpgSA-5 Nose Cone Transition. 2003-01-01 004.jpgSA-5 Nose Cone Transition. 2003-01-01 003.jpg
 
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I love getting to work with reinforced paper parts on rockets!!!
This one will have a lot of those!
 
I got the cardstock band on the lower portion, and have the parts fitting nicely, so now I need to figure out how to make them properly aligned and centered before bonding them together.
I'll make a jig using centering rings and a piece of 3" coupler to true it up.
GAMMONCONE 2003-01-01 002.JPG
 
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Made my Assembly Jig. I think it will work fine, and so I went ahead and put the cone in it.
It should be cured by tomorrow.:)

Cone Assembly Jig 2003-01-01 001.jpg
Cone Assembly Jig 2003-01-01 003.jpg
Cone Assembly Jig 2003-01-01 004.jpg
Cone Assembly Jig 2003-01-01 005.jpg
 
I like it!

Thanks.
The good thing about the Cone Asssembly Jig is that it will undoubtedly see more use in the future for other cones.
Now I have no reason not to chop cones to make my own, since I won't have to eyeball it when centering everything back up.
At least in 2.6" stuff, but the Jig could be scaled up or down to work with other diameter tubes.
 
Kjohnson told me how to scale stuff, so I've modified the Ork. to be more accurate.
It looks like I'll have to use BT-60 for the boosters. The diameter is supposed to be 40.04mm, and BT-60 is about perfect.

BT-60 Coupler Stock should be even better, but I can'y see the Specs. right now, as BMS's site is down.:(

View attachment SA-5 Gammon Rev5.ork
 
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I started practicing on the Lateral Booster Cones last night, and got my workbench installed yesterday. My back is screwed up from doing that, so I don't know if I'll get anything done today, but at least now I have a place to build this thing.

New Workbench with light 2003-01-01 006.jpg
 
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Got some practice making the cones for the boosters today, and here's where the nose cone is at. It is one piece now, and I can measure it and compare it to the specs, then build it up where it needs it and sand it to shape.
The booster cones can be made quite strong and light weight by using a bamboo skewer as a "Spine", and stuffing a little tissue in the tip followed by a few drops of super thin CA. I won't even start weighing them however until I've made a few of the practice models to get an Idea of what it takes to properly get them to their final shape.

Booster Practice Nose Cone Gammon 2003-01-01 003.jpgBooster Practice Nose Cone Gammon 2003-01-01 002.jpg

I did end up using a small section of coupler in the connection between the two parts of the nose cone, to ensure the epoxy would consistently contact the entire inner wall.
There was a slight ridge on one side of where the two halves meet, but I sanded it smooth.

Booster Practice Nose Cone Gammon 2003-01-01 005.jpg
 
I got new enlargements made to the new dimensions.
Staples is awesome! $11.54 well spent.
Measurements may now be taken directly from the drawing.


New Enlargements 2003-01-01 001.jpgNew Enlargements 2003-01-01 002.jpg
 
Here is updated booster nose patterns for BT-60 and I calculated the angle from your drawing dimensions

You really nailed it with the cones!!! Thanks again!
This is the first "Practice Model" I made, and look how well it lines up with the properly scaled schematic.

BoosterconesMatchup 2003-01-01 004.jpgBoosterconesMatchup 2003-01-01 006.jpg
 
I took the time to laminate the enlargements, as I don't want my cats jumping on them when I have them laid out and leaving muddy paw prints.

The booster one I mounted to some foamboard, and the sustainer one can now be rolled up tight enough to fit into a BT-55 tube.

I also revised my ork. file to include new measurments, the tail cone, and the annulus that supports the booster hardpoints.
I'de share the revision 6 Ork. file, but can't find it to attach.

Laminated Enlargements 2003-01-01 007.jpgLaminated Enlargements 2003-01-01 009.jpg

Laminated Enlargements 2003-01-01 001.jpg
 
I got my first body tube cut to length.
I quickly tacked together a practice booster, then, used scrap balsa to make two points to balance it on the body, to get an idea of the size.

GAMMON Mock UP 2003-01-01 002.jpg
 
You really nailed it with the cones!!! Thanks again!
This is the first "Practice Model" I made, and look how well it lines up with the properly scaled schematic.
That makes me smile...glad to be of help. I wish the freebie CAD programs did flat wraps, would be really cool for modelers...SolidWorks is fantastic, but pricey. I am allowed to have a copy from work at home, just can't use it for commercial purposes.
 
Hey Top,

I am enjoying your build thread. I was wondering how your going to get the correct dimensions for the fins since they are not shown in a complete profile in the drawings?
 
Hey Top,

I am enjoying your build thread. I was wondering how your going to get the correct dimensions for the fins since they are not shown in a complete profile in the drawings?


Thanks.

Yeah, it is a shame about the fins, but with hundreds of actual pictures to dig through, I figure I'll get the profile from whichever one is photographed from the best, most direct broadside angle, then apply the measurements from the wrongly profiled fins in the drawing.
This will not be an exact "Scale" model, but rather as good as I can get it, and since it will never be entered into any kind of contest, that will be plenty good enough for me.:)

Someday, if I ever win the lottery, I'll buy an actual SA-5 or S200, and then I can fondle and measure it to my hearts content, but for now I'll work with what I can get.
 
In regards to things like that rear fin issue, I simply look to the wisdom of Sodmeister The Great, when he says you have to use a little "Carte Blanche", or "Artistic License" sometimes.:wink:
It'll be fine, and rather than not build it, I'll simply steam forward and make the fins.
I came to build, not futz about.
It could be easy to get hung up on these things, but then nothing would ever get built, and the damned thread would go on until someone else builds one, like in my TALOS thread.:blush: Not that it was a bad thing, as we all got to witness KidRocket's mad skills and intuitive sense of modelling. I still go to the thread frequently, and read it from start to finish, and will eventually finish my TALOS, but KidRocket really knocked it out of the park with his build, and set a very high standard.
I will complete this build.
 
I've learned a lot about using Openrocket while building this, and did not have to ask for help.
I actually remembered a lot stuff from K'Tesh's threads, like how to move inner tubes outside of the body tube.

Thanks K'Tesh!
 
Thanks.

Yeah, it is a shame about the fins, but with hundreds of actual pictures to dig through, I figure I'll get the profile from whichever one is photographed from the best, most direct broadside angle, then apply the measurements from the wrongly profiled fins in the drawing.
This will not be an exact "Scale" model, but rather as good as I can get it, and since it will never be entered into any kind of contest, that will be plenty good enough for me.:)

Someday, if I ever win the lottery, I'll buy an actual SA-5 or S200, and then I can fondle and measure it to my hearts content, but for now I'll work with what I can get.


I've been thinking about the fins and how to use the drawing you have to get a close to accurate profile. Interested?
 

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