Rustoleum incompatibility issues.

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I understand, I believe you are using a different formulation of rustoleum as well.

This is the level of quality I am able to achieve with different products. I do not believe there was any alcohol left, it was made completely dry. I really do believe there is a problem with this paint. I definitely can not be used according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. I hope this helps.

Steve
 

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I understand, I believe you are using a different formulation of rustoleum as well.

This is the level of quality I am able to achieve with different products. I do not believe there was any alcohol left, it was made completely dry. I really do believe there is a problem with this paint. I definitely can not be used according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. I hope this helps.

Steve
While that is certainly a thing of beauty, rockets and wooden boxes do not a pair make. I'm not sure why you are comparing the use of stained wood, with Rustoleum 2X?

Nonetheless.... good luck.
 
I think you may of misunderstood, no stain is used. That is a french polish, it is a very involved process of using a ponce of gauze inside a cotton rag, diluted natural shellac, pure alcohol, and linseed oil for lubrication. It is not a comparison, just a example of attention to detail in finishing. It takes about 30 ultra thin coats to build, is years old and still looks and will look fantastic for years.

What I was getting at, is the alcohol was absolutely evaporated, the surface was properly prepped for a new coat.

I hope that makes more sense, sometimes I just expect others to know what I mean, I apologize for being unclear.
 
I don't believe alcohol is the problem. I have a ticket in with rustoleum to get their advice.

Wrinkling​

  • Updated 1 year ago

Wrinkling
An uncommon coating defect, appearing as a raised and crinkled surface, forming after a new coat or coating is applied over a previous one.

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Wrinkling may appear after a few minutes, or even as the next coat is being applied. With solvent-based spray paints, wrinkling is typically caused by the solvents in the most recent coat breaking through the "skin" of the previous coat that is still drying.

Causes of Wrinkling:

Applying the next coat too soon


While a rare occurrence, wrinkling may occur with any type of coating, and is usually caused by the timing between two coats or coatings. Once a coat has been applied, it quickly begins to form a skin, and recoating or applying the next coating too soon may cause wrinkling. On Rust-Oleum paint labels there will be drying and recoat times listed, and it is important to read and follow these carefully to ensure a successful application

Applying heavy coats

Applying heavy coats of paint can slow the drying process, leaving the coating vulnerable to wrinkling, as well as other issues such as mud cracking, and orange peel. For the best results and drying, apply thin, even coats, building the coating thickness over multiple applications

Painting in poor drying conditions

Stated drying times are generally based on a 70°F temperature and 50% humidity. High temperatures (especially direct sunlight) may cause a coating to form a skin too rapidly, which contracts the paint on its surface. Applying in cooler conditions, or high humidity, may slow the drying process considerably. Learn more about drying and curing here

Sanding just before applying the next coat

Oil-based paint dries through oxidation, or a reaction with air. This causes our spray paints to create a "skin" and sanding can compromise this skin, leaving the drying paint beneath exposed to the solvents in the next coat. If the coating is sanded, it is best to clean away the sanding debris, and allow the skin to harden for 24-48 hours before continuing on with the next coat

Surface contaminants (wax, grease, etc.)

Proper surface preparation prior to painting is the key to a successful application, and the best way to ensure a defect free, perfect finish every time. Use of a quality degreaser such as our Krud Kutter Original is an excellent way to ensure all surface contaminants are removed, and the priming coat will strongly adhere to the substrate. While surface contaminants may cause film defects on the first coat, such as fisheyes, dust and debris may also settle on an existing coat, causing problems when the next coat is applied. Wiping the surface clean prior to applying the next coat is good practice if there has been an extended time between coats

Fixing the surface:

  • First, lightly sand the wrinkled portion of the surface with 220-320 grit sandpaper until it is smooth. A sharp paint scraper may also be used to scrape just the wrinkled portion smooth and flush with the surrounding paint. Be sure to clean away all sanding debris from the surface
  • Once the surface is smooth, it is best to wait 24-48 hours before recoating, then apply a light, even coat to the entire portion of the project surface that was affected, to ensure an even color and sheen
Always remember that our Rust-Oleum Product Support Team is here and happy to help if you have any questions or concerns!

Yeah, typical replies to the issue I would say.
I have had prime conditions and prep. Apply paint or clear on a rocket that sat for many weeks and it still wrinkled. Even with the lightest coat.
I no longer use any of these products or any rattle can paint on rockets. I use automotive paints and will never look back. You use the cheep stuff and it requires more efforts and work. With auto paint I do not need to use a solvent to wipe down at all, just a tack cloth.

You can get auto paints in the can like House of Kolor but its steep like $35 a can verses $8 for rattle can. Not to mention there is far less orange peal.

Just my take on this as I have played around enough to know... spend money on really good product and the job goes smooth, cut corner and use cheep stuff you are at risk for more labor investment cause it is not worth the $27 for an hour of rework and more materials used.
 
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