NTP2’s Junior L1 thread.

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ThirstyBarbarian said:
Because it seems like the rail has to pass through a tube fin, and the tube fin has a certain thickness, plus it curves toward the rail, I wonder if you will need a little standoff distance for the rail buttons. Would the rail scrape against the inside of the tube fin if the button didn’t have a standoff? I’ve never built a tube fin rocket, so I don’t know, but it seems like a potential issue. You might want to ask around on that. A standoff could be a stacked washer or two, like @Art Upton described above.
Click to expand...
That was my concern too but I have a very good plan about how to fix it… (foreshadow)
 
Update!!
Today I have good news and bad news I’ll start with the good news I fixed a problem that I was having, since the fins come in sets of 2 there are spots where I can’t fillet but need to (at the junction of the sets) but when I was doing this fillet it bleed through the filed the spaceIMG_1773.jpeg
But now the fillet is gone IMG_1775.jpeg
So I need to put more on and I don’t know how well epoxy sticks to epoxy?
 
Epoxy sticks to itself quite well. No worries on that.

I'm also rather introverted, but I love doing community theater...go figure...lol.
 
Well, it’s been a second.
But I’m back! I got the final section in I’ll need to filet it but it’s progress! But there’s a problem it’s not in line with the rest it looks like it’s rotated or something, will it mess with the aerodynamic?IMG_2953.jpegIMG_2954.jpeg
In case you are wondering that is it in the best spot.
 
Ok I think I have 3 options

1 ignore it

2 redo that one section with spare tubing to make it less obvious

3 redo the entire thing, I’m almost certain that it’s not possible
without completely destroying the main tube.

I’m leaning towards number two but I can definitely be persuaded.
 
NTP2 said:
Ok I think I have 3 options

1 ignore it

2 redo that one section with spare tubing to make it less obvious

3 redo the entire thing, I’m almost certain that it’s not possible
without completely destroying the main tube.

I’m leaning towards number two but I can definitely be persuaded.
Click to expand...
It’ll definitely induce quite a bit of spin, but for an L1 it should be fine. You could totally redo parts of it, but that might cause some cosmetic damage on the other tubes, but it’ll be manageable. Probably a lot of sanding…
 
Voyhager3 said:
It’ll definitely induce quite a bit of spin, but for an L1 it should be fine. You could totally redo parts of it, but that might cause some cosmetic damage on the other tubes, but it’ll be manageable. Probably a lot of sanding…
Click to expand...
Ok I will practically having a heart attack that I’d completely messed it up! It’s only tacked in so that section will be easy to remove.

Ps now that I think about it I should have tacked everything in place then did the fillets! But hindsight is 20 20…
 
NTP2 said:
Ok I will practically having a heart attack that I’d completely messed it up! It’s only tacked in so that section will be easy to remove.

Ps now that I think about it I should have tacked everything in place then did the fillets! But hindsight is 20 20…
Click to expand...
Well you gotta mess up to learn, I’ve made my fair share of mistakes, and I think I’ve made that mistake before too!
 
It’s done, the filleting is finally done!!:eggnog:
IMG_3204.jpegIMG_3205.jpeg
I also started the recovery,IMG_3206.jpeg
And I can finally reveal my plan for the buttons,IMG_3203.jpeg
you will receive a prize if you figure it out… my only hint is @ThirstyBarbarian post
 
NTP2 said:
Well, it’s been a second.
But I’m back! I got the final section in I’ll need to filet it but it’s progress! But there’s a problem it’s not in line with the rest it looks like it’s rotated or something, will it mess with the aerodynamic?View attachment 631462View attachment 631463
In case you are wondering that is it in the best spot.
Click to expand...
Epoxy dries weirdly, the top centering ring on my L1 MMT is also slightly out of whack. How I probably would've done this was to let all the fins dry on top of a table and all of them flush with the center tube, so this doesn't happen...
 
For future reference:

When doing "standard" 6 around 1, tube fin rockets. Glue up 2 sets of 2 fins, NOT 3 set of 2. The Body Tube and remaining 2 fins get glued together on a FLAT surface, with the body in the middle.
Then a set of fins gets glued to each side, that keeps everything straight.
 
brentius said:
Epoxy dries weirdly, the top centering ring on my L1 MMT is also slightly out of whack. How I probably would've done this was to let all the fins dry on top of a table and all of them flush with the center tube, so this doesn't happen...
Click to expand...
That isn’t the problem, I started with 1 set then added one as I went in a circle. The problem is that I started a little off and it got amplified to that, it’s sort of like trying to free hand draw a circle on a body tube, you’re always off.
Tractionengines said:
For future reference:

When doing "standard" 6 around 1, tube fin rockets. Glue up 2 sets of 2 fins, NOT 3 set of 2. The Body Tube and remaining 2 fins get glued together on a FLAT surface, with the body in the middle.
Then a set of fins gets glued to each side, that keeps everything straight.
Click to expand...
thanks that would have been a better way, in my defense I did the method the instructions said.
 
Looking through those old instructions, I noticed it's using a launch lug for a rod. You may want to set up rail buttons where a 1010 rail will go through one of the tube fins and on the buttons.

If you come to BattlePark in Culpeper, we haven't allowed high power flights off rods in a long time now. You must use rails at our site for HPR. We don't even have any pads for HPR that can even use a rod even if we wanted to.

VAST is probably the closest club to Christiansburg and I'm not sure what their requirements are, so you should probably get ahold of Chuck and find out.
 
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Handeman said:
Looking through those old instructions, I noticed it's using a launch lug for a rod. You may want to set up rail buttons where a 1010 rail will go through one of the tube fins and on the buttons.

If you come to BattlePark in Culpeper, we haven't allowed high power flights off rods in a long time now. You must use rails at our site for HPR.
Click to expand...
I wasn’t planning to, I have a plan to make it work with rails, I cut a stand-off from a spare piece of 3” tube and the rail can go through the tube.

Edit you added a bit about VAST but there is a closer club NRVR, we lost our site but we have several options for a new one. There is a small possibility that I do it at LDRS.
 
Two other things of note, about the instructions... those are OLD, (never updated, so best there is).

1) back then the kit used 6 coupler tubes, not body tube sections. Thats how there was room for the 1/2 Rod. They didn't quite make it the full way around the body, and the 1/2 launch lug filled the bigger gap.

2) the old LOC instructions show a version of the shock cord anchor that is kind of like a heavy duty Estes mount. It works, but if you do it, MAKE SURE it's far enough down to not interfere with anything. (or) use a more modern style attached to the motor mount in some fashion.

[Edit: I looked back and see you do have it attached to the top Centering Ring. ... SO YOUR NOT FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS... :) ]
 
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I ordered a retainer and while I’m waiting I decided to do the electronics, I want it to support data logging and I had an idea that takes advantage of the quantum’s Wi-Fi, drill 2 holes in the sides of the nose and run some string though then run that through the mounting holes in the quantum and zip tie the battery in the back. So I can arm with my phone and it dangles by the string during flight, would that work?IMG_3637.jpeg
 
If your only using it to LOG the flight, yes, but Wi-Fi is power hungry, so do a test on how long it takes your battery to run down from 4.2V to 3.6V and keep that in mind when you fly it, so you don't over dis-charge your battery.

Also, Wrap some wadding around it for protector from bumps during flight and landing.
 

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