My launch controller

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sodmeister

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Finally made this awhile ago ,works very well.It uses jacks to go to the battery (truch ,deep cycle) and then there are jacks with 12 gauge wire that goes from the controller to the launch pad.I have various sets of clips for the different type of igniters used.
In the center ,you see holes drilled.That is where the audible alarm is.

Paul

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Very nicely done... I like the fit and finish... looks professional!

I'm sure SOMEBODY here will have a conniption because it doesn't have a removable safety circuit interrupt for the safety switch/continuity key... switches are against the safety code. The circuit must be physically opened by a removeable interlock necessary to be inserted to complete the circuit for firing, by the book.

Just saying... :) Nice work though! OL JR :)
 
Very nicely done... I like the fit and finish... looks professional!

I'm sure SOMEBODY here will have a conniption because it doesn't have a removable safety circuit interrupt for the safety switch/continuity key... switches are against the safety code. The circuit must be physically opened by a removeable interlock necessary to be inserted to complete the circuit for firing, by the book.

Just saying... :) Nice work though! OL JR :)

After each launch ,the jacks from the power source are pulled and not put back until ready,as is the clip going to the battery is pulled.

I could probably put an interrpter inline before the box.Hmmmm..sounds like another project ;)

Thanks for saying

Paul
 
Excellent job on the controller. It looks like what I would want to build, or used to. After using a custom build contoller with a motorcycle batter inside for power, I finally went the other direction.

I launch most of my rockets at a club launch so I don't need a controller, except for some LPR and one or two MPR at the school yard. I needed to rebuild mine and ended up going from a large box with enclosed battery to a 2x2x4 box on a cord. One end connects to a battery and the other to the igniter. Everything is on the cord, coil it up and pack it away. Easy to use, easier to transport and store.

Guess I'm getting lazy in my old age, but I do appreciate craftsmenship and your controller looks great. Have fun!
 
Excellent job on the controller. It looks like what I would want to build, or used to. After using a custom build contoller with a motorcycle batter inside for power, I finally went the other direction.

I launch most of my rockets at a club launch so I don't need a controller, except for some LPR and one or two MPR at the school yard. I needed to rebuild mine and ended up going from a large box with enclosed battery to a 2x2x4 box on a cord. One end connects to a battery and the other to the igniter. Everything is on the cord, coil it up and pack it away. Easy to use, easier to transport and store.

Guess I'm getting lazy in my old age, but I do appreciate craftsmenship and your controller looks great. Have fun!

Thankyou sir.

That`s the great thing about rocketry...I get to tinker around with stuff.

Paul
 
After each launch ,the jacks from the power source are pulled and not put back until ready,as is the clip going to the battery is pulled.

I could probably put an interrpter inline before the box.Hmmmm..sounds like another project ;)

Thanks for saying

Paul

Pulling the plugs from the jacks doesn't satisfy the intent of the safety code, as all someone would have to do is go "Hey, why isn't it working? Oh, the cord's unplugged!" The idea of the removable safety is that you can take it with you when you approach the pad.

It would be pretty easy to add a safety plug jack to your panel, probably somewhere near the "Arm" switch. All it takes is a mini mono jack, and a plug in which you short the contacts with a wire. I make the wire into a loop to which I can tie a piece of 1" wide orange construction tape so I don't lose the dang thing.

Nice work with the box and panel layout. Looks professional and very rugged.
 
Pulling the plugs from the jacks doesn't satisfy the intent of the safety code, as all someone would have to do is go "Hey, why isn't it working? Oh, the cord's unplugged!" The idea of the removable safety is that you can take it with you when you approach the pad.

It would be pretty easy to add a safety plug jack to your panel, probably somewhere near the "Arm" switch. All it takes is a mini mono jack, and a plug in which you short the contacts with a wire. I make the wire into a loop to which I can tie a piece of 1" wide orange construction tape so I don't lose the dang thing.

Nice work with the box and panel layout. Looks professional and very rugged.

Very nice work.
I'm just wondering if a pair Normally Open toggle switches in series would work as a safety according to the safety code??
 
Very nice work.
I'm just wondering if a pair Normally Open toggle switches in series would work as a safety according to the safety code??

By the letter of the "law" no... the circuit needs to be opened by a removable "interlock" (IE part of the circuit) which renderes the circuit "open" and incomplete without the insertion of that part. Switches do indeed "open" the circuit, but they are not REMOVABLE, and hence CAN be closed, thrown, or activated by another person at the controller, without the operator's knowledge, either accidentally, inadvertantly, or purposely.

A typical Estes-style "continuity key" in fact bridges a gap in the circuit which allows power to flow when it is inserted, and creates a completely open circuit when removed. A "shorted jack" style key is functionally identical... power comes in through the center 'spike' in the socket, goes though the jack center wire to the side wire, and back out the side "clamp' of the socket and into the wiring of the controller. When the shorted jack is removed, the circuit between the "spike" and the "clamp" is interrupted, preventing any power flow.

Now, the subject has come up about "ignition keys", sorta like ignition switches in a car-- IF the switch cannot be turned with the key removed, and the key cannot be removed when the switch is anywhere but OFF, then they are acceptable. A lot of cheapy 'lawnmower type' switches do NOT meet this criteria, however... the key can be removed with the switch on, or the switch turned with a screwdriver or other item without the key being inserted. Those are, legally, no-no's...


Hope this helps! OL JR :)
 
Luke, that's very helpful indeed. At least for me :)
Not to to completely hijack the thread, so what you're saying is some sort of spring type ignition key and a push to close button would satisfy the safety code. Is that correct?
 
Luke, that's very helpful indeed. At least for me :)
Not to to completely hijack the thread, so what you're saying is some sort of spring type ignition key and a push to close button would satisfy the safety code. Is that correct?

As I understand it, if the key is removable on when the cylinder is locked in the "OFF" position, and the cylinder cannot be turned with the key out, and the key cannot be removed with the cylinder switch "ON" then yes. I know, it sound counterintuitive-- "what purpose is there for having a key switch that can be turned without a key, or left "on" when the key is pulled??" But it's true-- my brother and my golf carts can BOTH be turned on without a key in the switch, and the key pulled out with the switch left on. As are most riding lawnmower switches. SO yeah, it's more than possible!

The ignition button can be a momentary "ON" of whatever type or flavor you prefer-- push button, momentary throw, whatever, but it needs to be a MOMENTARY switch (push to close) and NOT one that can inadvertantly be left in the "ON" position, for obvious reasons. Some folks even like the very "NASA-esque" guarded toggles that are locked "OFF" when the guard is snapped shut, but if it's a regular toggle underneath, it's still kinda "iffy" IMHO, because if you forget to snap the guard shut, the ignition circuit would still be "ON". At any rate, those type switches aren't suitable for "safety key" replacements, because they cannot be removed or "locked out" to prevent someone else from accidentally activating the launcher while you're out at the pad.

I know, it SOUNDS remote, but believe me, it happens! About the first or second club launch we had out here when I first started letting the club fly off the farm, a friend of mine was way up underneath as Estes Phoenix hooking up the clips (if you recall, the Phoenix has the engine recessed an inch or so up in the back of the rocket) and a kid was holding the controller, and playing around with it, and happened to press the key in and the launch button down simultaneously-- the guy got a REAL closeup of a Phoenix lifting off, because he was still laying underneath it, but he'd just finished hooking it up and had his hands out of the way, so luckily he didn't get burned. Not good.

When I was a high schooler, I was flying my Astrocam quite a bit out on the end of the cotton fields, having my little brother do the launching while I videotaped the flights. More than once I'd forget to open that silly "light lock" shutter protector switch on the Astrocam, and waste a flight, since with the shutter lock shut it wouldn't take a photo. I remembered one flight at about the "2" count and called "hold", and he set the controller down on the ground while I quick-stepped it out to the pad, camera still running, and reached for the shutter lock to open it, when I was about an inch away, the rocket lifted off right in front of me. Scared the wee out of me, and I turned around ranting at my brother, to see that he was petting the stupid dog who'd wandered down to the field from the yard, and who had stepped on the launch button and ignited the rocket, because my brother left the key in!

Not good...:y:

Anyway, hope this helps! OL JR :)
 
Well I can completely understand based on those stories why you have such interest in controller safety and proper design. Either of those accidents could have turned out very bad indeed! Happily that was not the case (either time).
Thanks for the info. When I actually get some time to build mt own launch controller, I'll keep this in mind ;)
 
Hello all,

Here are some photos from my new controller. I inserted a 12V 1.7Ah battery, have charging ports, launch pad ports, a voltmeter and 2 illuminated toggle switches along with external lamps as well as a momentary switch for launch.

I will be adding 2 more external ports to put another 12V battery in series with the internal one for my Saturn 1B (8) motor cluster and my Saturn V (5) motor cluster.
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After each launch ,the jacks from the power source are pulled and not put back until ready,as is the clip going to the battery is pulled.

Pulling the plugs from the jacks doesn't satisfy the intent of the safety code, as all someone would have to do is go "Hey, why isn't it working? Oh, the cord's unplugged!" The idea of the removable safety is that you can take it with you when you approach the pad.
If you pull the power plug out of the jack and take the entire controller with you I feel that meets the spirit of safety code
 
or attach the battery with velcro so that you can put the pack in your pocket...:).
 
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