Bad launch battery or just some bad luck?

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Azamiryou

Learn from your mistakes. I learned a lot today!
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I have a home-built launch controller that previously used 6 AA batteries, and has worked flawlessly for several years. I recently upgraded it to a LiPo (2200 mAh 3s 50c) rechargeable battery. It seemed to work fine in testing, so I took it out to the field.

First launch attempt, igniter burned but motor did not start. No big deal, it happens (though not often in my BAR life - either the igniters are better now or I'm better at installing them). So I replaced the igniter and tried again. Same result.

Okay, let's try a different rocket. I put rocket number two on the pad, try to launch, and... same result. Obviously something isn't working with this battery, so I swap back in the 6 AAs instead and try to launch again and... same result again! Now I'm really scratching my head and getting a bit embarrassed because we're out at the field with my young son and one of his friends and nothing has worked yet.

Son insisted we try yet another different rocket, so I do and... it launches! We proceeded to launch a bunch more rockets, all worked fine. We did not try again with the two rockets that failed to fly in the first place.

In the end we had the failure three times with the LiPo battery and once with the AAs, followed by a bunch of successful launches on the AAs. The failures to launch were with Estes igniters and engines. One was a 1/2A6-2, the other was a C6-0.

I thought perhaps the battery's protection circuit was interfering, although this doesn't explain the failure with the AAs. Anyway, at home I did a bunch of tests with the launcher and both types of batteries. Both appeared to fire igniters equally well, and the LiPo protection circuit never kicked in. I also tried just using the steel wires from used Estes igniters, and the Lipo had no trouble burning them apart without tripping the protection circuit.

So what's going on here? Is there some reason the LiPo can burn igniters but not launch rockets? Did I badly install igniters four times in a row, even when I was very specifically trying hard to get them installed correctly because I'd just had a failure? Is it a manufacturing defect in the motors and I just happened to get two in a row of different types that had the same defect?
 
I have seen this happen. It is mainly due to shorting the igniter inside the nozzle, under the plug.

Another is not getting the igniter all the way in and touching the black powder propellant.
Sometime this is due to the clay nozzle closed up or oxidation of the propellant. I use small drill bit or straight screw driver. Gently twisted in the nozzle opening can clear and clean making the propellant exposed to the igniter.
 
Thanks for responding.

I guess I'll clean out the nozzles on the motors that failed, and try the new battery again on my next launch.

Could the first igniter failure gunk up the motor with soot or something and cause a second one to fail to start that motor?
 
I concur with @waltr . Clay in the nozzle was the first thing that came to my mind based on your description. And yes, a little extra gunk in there won't help.

Twist a 3/32 or 5/64 twist drill bit in the nozzle with your fingers and light pressure. Turn the motor over and tap out the residue on your palm. If it's black then your nozzles are clear. If it's grey (nozzle clay color), do it again.

A battery designed for an RC car or aircraft won't have a protection circuit to trip. And even if it did, since they're claiming a 50C discharge rate on a 2.2Ah pack, in order to deliver that discharge rate you'd need to pull 110A out of the battery. A battery like that should be able to launch Estes motor clusters and composites for a whole flying season without needing to be recharged. I use one that size on my 3-pad setup and charge it about once a year, whether I need to or not. This system is often the one that I run BEMRC monthly launches from when I'm not expecting a scout group or some other big influx.

Current Estes igniters — the grey-tipped Startechs — don't even have to be tight against the propellant to work properly. The older ones with the straw-colored stuff over the bridge wire really do need to be touching the fuel to work.

So, to answer you question: I suspect some bad luck.

Oh, and welcome to TRF, from an ex-patriate New Mexican who has lived in the Pacific Northwest for over 40 years now. I have a sister in ABQ and my Dad and little brother live in Santa Fe.
 
Well well well... I just tried reaming the nozzles on the two suspect motors, and on both of them I had to dig through clay to reach the black powder.

Hundreds of launches as a BAR and the first two motors I run across with this defect are the first two I try to launch on a new kind of battery... what are the odds?

For now I'll chalk it up to luck, but I guess the proof will be in whether they launch with the new battery next time.

Oh, and welcome to TRF, from an ex-patriate New Mexican who has lived in the Pacific Northwest for over 40 years now. I have a sister in A

Hi there! I've lived a lot of places, but NM is home. I've been back for just over six years. If you're ever here for a visit, drop me a line -- if it's not too windy we can fly some rockets!
 
Last time I launched (last summer... grrrr) I had one D12 that would not start, first time I had ever experienced that. Eventually fixed it by scraping up the interior with a pointy implement.
 
UPDATE: I was able to go try again with the Lipo battery today, and both of the motors in question (nozzles now reamed out) ignited just fine. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

So it appears it was just bad luck. I had two defective motors, and just happened to try them as the first two motors on the new battery. Pretty strange luck, but "very unlikely" isn't the same as "impossible", and it's not the strangest bit of luck I've ever seen.

Thanks to everyone who commented 🙂
 
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