LED Lighting - Garage - Options?

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GregGleason

GregGleason

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I am looking for lighting options in my garage.

Currently, I have a single bulb. It just doesn't cut it while I'm working in the garage.

I do have some halogen spots, but they can get hot (plus in winter, minus in summer). Their big downside is they can trip the 15 amp breaker if I turn one of my power tools on. In addition, they are spots and have a limited cone of illumination.

So I'm looking for lighting options/recommendations that are lower amperage.

Are LED's a good solution for this, or are their better ones?

Greg
 
I replaced the light fixture in my garage with an outlet, and then plugged in 2 power strips and 6 fluorescent fixtures that I hung from short chains all over my garage ceiling. Now the garage is nice and bright!
 
I found and use two pivoting 9 watt LED fixtures. point it where I need it and lights up my whole beach nicely. Found them at Lowe's, like 20 something each, I love them. I solder a lot and need bright white lighting.
 
I also have the outlets and multiple fluorescent fixtures, hanging from chains, plugged into the outlets. It's nice and bright, and with light coming from all different directions, you don't get annoying shadows. But I wouldn't mind some kind of LED setup, because the tubes don't last forever and are a pain to change. And at least one of the fixtures is now dying. I'll be interested in what people suggest.
 
If you're somewhere that has cold winters, flourescents can be problematic in the winter. You'll have to fork out more money for ballasts and bulbs designed for cold weather and even then they can be spotty, especially when it gets really cold. My brother is in northern WI, and even his cold weather strips have problems during the middle of winter.

LEDs don't have the same issues with cold weather.

-Kevin
 
One thing to ask, does your garage have a ceiling or open rafters? A ceiling acts as a reflector to make the lighting more efficient, I have 2 dual 4ft tube fixtures in each bay and it is still dark in there since I have no ceiling.
Yes, it sounds like you need more lights, but also consider if you need to install a ceiling at the same time.
A friend of mine was building a shed/workshop and we were discussing lights. I suggested that he install a couple of 'cheap' ceiling fixtures like Grandma had in the closet.

032664259708lg.jpg

He installed 2 over his work bench and a couple in the back corners. He loves it, he can select the lights he wants to be on based on what he is doing. In our area a CFL should work well, or you could install LEDs if you prefer.
 
Get as many light standard fixtures in your garage and wire them up. You can have (based on a average 7W LED Globe) 256 LED globes in your garage on their own 15 amp breaker.
 
You can get a simple LED strip, LED RGB bulbs or some amperage regular low LED bulbs form Amazon, or some LED website.
I bought a Lighting EVER 5W GU10 LED Bulbs from Amazon before, they are just great.
I am very satisfied with LED bulbs so far. I knew some basic knowledge form a blog(https://www.lightingever.co.uk/blog/) that
An LED is essentially a microscopic chip, which is very small and light.
Generally speaking, an LED operates at 2-3.6 V, 0.02-0.03 A current, requiring no more than 0.1 W to operate. Besides, LEDs cost less energy to manufacture, compared to
other light sources.
LEDs have an extremely long lifespan. Theoretically, LEDs can last up to 100,000 hours, which is far more longer than other light sources.
LEDs do not contain mercury or other toxic substances, which is friendly with the environment and human health.
LEDs Generate little heat or UV rays, unlike incandescent lights that generate a large amount of waste heat.
Hope, that will be helpful. :)
 
I’m currently installing LED lighting into several buildings.

Of course they’re N-Scale and sitting on my train layout.

Does that count?

Yes it does; but only 1/160th as much.
 
GDJ said:
Get as many light standard fixtures in your garage and wire them up. You can have (based on a average 7W LED Globe) 256 LED globes in your garage on their own 15 amp breaker.
Click to expand...

That's not exactly true -- the NEC (Natl Electric Code) limits the load on any circuit to 80% of it's rating. i.e. for a 15 amp circuit, that is 12 amps (1440 watts at 120v) and, for a 20 amp circuit, that is 16 amps (1920 watts). In your example (7w LED on a 15a circuit), that would be something like 205 bulbs --- but that would be a massive expenditure, especially in this application.

Don't get me wrong, LEDs are the future and I'm a big believer in them - but until that future gets here, the cost is still going to be an issue (they'll come down in time) -- and, yes, there are LED equivalents to the classic 4 ft fluorescent fixture - but, again, cost just drives it through the roof.

To Greg:

Your classic 4 foot fluorescent fixture (2, 3, or 4 tube) are (most likely) your best bet -- a basic 2 tube 4' fixture (with ballast losses) is about 1 amp (remember, 12 fixtures (at 1amp) max on 15a circuit) - double that (load) for a 4 tube fixture (i.e. 1/2 as many fixtures per circuit). The comments about open ceiling structure are valid (as to 'sucking' the light away) -- as the overall illumination depends on the reflectance of the surfaces. Your normal 'shop light' will have a small reflector that will help - but you can always get a few squares of ceiling tile (normal size is 2'x4') and place behind each fixture to help and not require covering the entire ceiling.

As to tubes and ballasts, the classic 'T-12' tube ("T"ubular shape - 12/8" in dia - or 1.5") is either obsolete or outlawed now -- and the 'T-8' (8/8" dia or 1") is the replacement that is pretty good -- the 4100K(elvin) bulb is standard. There is also the 'T-5' (5/8" dia) is also a choice -- especially the 'HO' (high output) version - but you may find costs elevated. Ballasts? The newer ones are electronic and may be the only options any more (there is a trend to outlaw the older, less efficient analog ballasts) - which can handle colder temps (but, in the Houston area, that shouldn't be an issue). (I fished some 3 tube fixtures out of a dumpster down at a local Tech College (when they were remodeling a lab) - since they were 277/480v, I found a 10pack of Panasonic Electronic ballasts (120v) on eBay for about $80 -- so, with a little rewiring, I got a $100 3 tube fixture for $8 (for my upcoming shop)).

But, in summary, a 2 or 3 tube, T-8, 4' fluorescent would be the simplest, generally best and cheapest (in overall, life-cycle cost). Verify it has an electronic ballast and you should be fine. If you can, I would try to put the lighting on it's own circuit (15a on 14 ga wiring or 20a on 12ga). Don't know how big an area you are talking about, but something like 3 fixtures per 'car bay' would probably work fine. If you want to be sure, get with me and give me some dimensions and I'll do a quick layout for you.

-- john (Registered Architect)
 
Last edited:
I've been wanting to install new lights in my garage for a while now. Currently there are 4 4' fluorescent tube fixtures on the ceiling towards the back of the garage past where the garage doors end when they are up.

My question is, can you place the fixtures (assume 4' tube fixtures) in a way that the garage doors don't block them? Putting them on the sides won't light the middle up very well. Are there any tricks to this?

Thanks!
 
I use 2 150 watt equivalent CFL's (center) in my 20x 24ft. garage, plenty of light. I think they make them up to 300 watts now. They are listed to be good to +5 degrees F. but light up even at 20 below 0. They take several minutes to warm up but I can live with that. My 6-4ft 4 bulb fluorescent fixtures I got for free and 2 cases of bulbs are resting unused on top of my joists in my garage.
 
Derek said:
<snip>... My question is, can you place the fixtures (assume 4' tube fixtures) in a way that the garage doors don't block them? Putting them on the sides won't light the middle up very well. Are there any tricks to this?
Click to expand...

Derek,

The easiest way - if you have garage doors with windows in them - is to locate the fixture such that it shines through the window when the garage door is up (but those windows are not all that popular, insofar that that creates a security issue (folks can see inside and see what you've got that's good to steal)).

Another option would be to angle some fluorescents from either side (assuming it had a reflector that created a 'beam' (hotspot on the floor) - but I can't recall any here at the moment that would do that) - but even a standard reflector *would* throw some light more to the side if it was mounted canted to that direction. Simply have to experiment on this one.

Yet another option would be to mount a fixture (and LEDs would probably be the best option here -- more robust and durable) on the inside of your garage door with a 'pigtail' (6"? 8"?) plug-in to it. When the door is up, stretch out an extension cord (even the lightweight (16-18 ga) lamp cord ones would do) and plug it in. Would need to pick a fixture that doesn't protrude too much - get a height that doesn't scratch the car finish if you were bump it inadvertantly. Rig up some hangers to the side (coat-hanger) to hold the extension cord up and out of the way. It would be even possible - with some experimentation - to have the fixture permanently wired. They make coiled power-rated cords (and, remember, we're only talking one (or two) fixtures) - and with some judicious routing, could be made to work.

Some LED fixture manufacturers:

https://www.rabweb.com/

https://www.e-conolight.com/ --- pretty decent pricing (and they list them)

https://www.lithonia.com/ --- more commercial grade (mid-range - but more expensive than above)

Additional comment (on 4' fluorescents): As noted, there are in the market today LED 'replacement bulbs' to fit these classic fixtures - and, as noted, they are expensive. However, getting the classic 4' T-8 fixture today (with fluorescent lamps) will still get you set for the future. LEDs are coming and will only get cheaper with time. There will also be all manner of LED 'replacement tubes' for all those millions of T-8 fixtures and they will get quite cheap. So, when your (purchased today) fluorescent needs replacement lamps, get the LEDs then. I would venture to guess that this 'form factor' will be with us for many decades into the future.

--john.
 
jcato, my post was more in line with dry humour than an actual idea to put in over 200 7 watt LED Globes in a garage.

Seriously, would anybody put in 256 or 205 LED lights @ 800 lumens each in a garage??? I like a bright work area as much as the next guy, but c'mon!!

164,000 lumens in a 24x20 garage where 36,000 will do (@75 lumens per sq.ft)??



I have 8 in my garage. Nice and bright.
 
Last edited:
GDJ said:
jcato, my post was more in line with dry humour than an actual idea to put in over 200 7 watt LED Globes in a garage.
Click to expand...

Well, I would *hope* so (i.e. throwing a little humor into the discussion). <g> This would look like some casino in Vegas. <g>

I understand your point -- what prompted my reply was in loading the circuit to 100% of it's rating and the fact of 'toning it down' a bit is both prudent and in keeping with the NEC. It's a foregone conclusion that, using LEDS, one would be hard-pressed in overloading *any* circuit.

-- john.
 
I have the standard screw in bulb receptacles (6) and I replaced the bulbs with the CFL's equal to 100w each, but I purchased the Daylight color ones. OMG it's daylight bright in the garage. More than enough light now. $6.00 bulbs instead of $25-30 each for LED's.
 
jcato said:
Derek,

The easiest way - if you have garage doors with windows in them - is to locate the fixture such that it shines through the window when the garage door is up (but those windows are not all that popular, insofar that that creates a security issue (folks can see inside and see what you've got that's good to steal)).

Another option would be to angle some fluorescents from either side (assuming it had a reflector that created a 'beam' (hotspot on the floor) - but I can't recall any here at the moment that would do that) - but even a standard reflector *would* throw some light more to the side if it was mounted canted to that direction. Simply have to experiment on this one.

Yet another option would be to mount a fixture (and LEDs would probably be the best option here -- more robust and durable) on the inside of your garage door with a 'pigtail' (6"? 8"?) plug-in to it. When the door is up, stretch out an extension cord (even the lightweight (16-18 ga) lamp cord ones would do) and plug it in. Would need to pick a fixture that doesn't protrude too much - get a height that doesn't scratch the car finish if you were bump it inadvertantly. Rig up some hangers to the side (coat-hanger) to hold the extension cord up and out of the way. It would be even possible - with some experimentation - to have the fixture permanently wired. They make coiled power-rated cords (and, remember, we're only talking one (or two) fixtures) - and with some judicious routing, could be made to work.

Some LED fixture manufacturers:

https://www.rabweb.com/

https://www.e-conolight.com/ --- pretty decent pricing (and they list them)

https://www.lithonia.com/ --- more commercial grade (mid-range - but more expensive than above)

Additional comment (on 4' fluorescents): As noted, there are in the market today LED 'replacement bulbs' to fit these classic fixtures - and, as noted, they are expensive. However, getting the classic 4' T-8 fixture today (with fluorescent lamps) will still get you set for the future. LEDs are coming and will only get cheaper with time. There will also be all manner of LED 'replacement tubes' for all those millions of T-8 fixtures and they will get quite cheap. So, when your (purchased today) fluorescent needs replacement lamps, get the LEDs then. I would venture to guess that this 'form factor' will be with us for many decades into the future.

--john.
Click to expand...

Hi John,

Thanks for the ideas. I don't have windows in the doors, so that isn't an option. Installing them on the doors is clever, but there isn't a whole lot of clearance between my suv and the door (less than 4"). There is even less clearance when the lift gate of the minivan is open (less than 2"). That would be bad...

I think your are right about experimenting with them. My wife wanted cans everywhere, but there isn't enough clearance in the attic above the garage because there is plywood on top of the trusses for storage. Lots of constraints...

The garage is pretty deep so there is quite a bit of room between the back of the garage and where the door stops. There are two doors - a double and a single. I'm thinking I can install some 4' tubes between the two and on the sides and that will be about the best I can manage. That has to be an improvement.

I figure at some point the led replacement tubes will come down to a reasonable price. Even the ones posted earlier weren't too bad (10 for $290). We'll see...

Thanks again!
 
These look pretty interesting:

822985510080lg.jpg


https://www.lowes.com/pd_1345-43921...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

I might pick up a couple after christmas to play around with.
 
Something to think about is to add a motion activated switch. Example here
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192EUFY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This turns on and off the lights whenever the garage door opens or someone walks into the room, and keeps them on as long as someone is moving around. Can be set for 15 seconds to 15 minutes.

Cons: You need to mount it where it can "see" where you are likely to be. E.g., if you are kneeling between two cars out of it's vision working on inflating a tire or something, it will go on when you walk over there but will eventually turn off while you are still there.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I replaced two of my four 8' fluorescent fixtures with tracks populated with 16 LED floods in the swivel housings, and am really happy with the result. It cut the wattage quite a bit, eliminated a lot of the 60Hz hum from the ballasts and lets me put light where I want it. Planning to do the other half soon so the noise and maintenance goes to zero. Even without the hum I've had to replace a couple of ballasts and several tubes in the last few years, and the fluorescents threw a lot of light where I didn't need it. The LED units are still a little expensive but prices are coming down as the volumes go up.
 
Well I bought one of these today and I was pretty disappointed with it. It was really dim - like single 40w bulb dim. The box claims 3200 lumens, but there was no way this was 3200 lumens. 3200 lumens should be brighter than the 4, 700 lumen led units I just installed in my daughter's room. This isn't even close.

I'm not sure if it is defective and I should try to exchange it or move on. I also bought one of these to install over a tub:

046135707322lg.jpg


https://www.lowes.com/pd_86477-3-70...currentURL=?Ntt=led&page=1&facetInfo=SYLVANIA

but these would be quite a bit more work to install all over the garage.

Derek said:
These look pretty interesting:

822985510080lg.jpg


https://www.lowes.com/pd_1345-43921...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

I might pick up a couple after christmas to play around with.
Click to expand...
 
Derek said:
Well I bought one of these today and I was pretty disappointed with it. It was really dim - like single 40w bulb dim. The box claims 3200 lumens, but there was no way this was 3200 lumens. 3200 lumens should be brighter than the 4, 700 lumen led units I just installed in my daughter's room. This isn't even close.

I'm not sure if it is defective and I should try to exchange it or move on.
Click to expand...


Derek, I saw your previous post and felt I should respond and just didn't -- got on to other things. Sorry.

The LED replacement lamps are "just not there yet" - and, typically, are no better than half the lumens (and half the 'efficacy') of the classic fluorescent. There's some pretty good reading (technical, tho it is) here:

https://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/ssl/troffer_benchmark_01-09.pdf

Pay attention to the "Efficacy (lm/W)" criteria (lumens/watt -- e.g. pg 9 and 12), as that will tell you a lot and, while the LED technology is *natively* more efficient (the raw LEDs), by the time you get them in an actual product, that efficiency is lost (generally, the F32T8 fluorescent (your standard lamp) is twice as efficient as the LED replacements). That means, simply, you'll spend *more* (not less) on electricity with the LEDS than fluorescents - to get the same illumination level.

It's not really necessary to read the entire document -- the 'Conclusion' does a pretty good job of getting the point across (as well as the 'Untangling the Performance Claims...' immediately preceding).

I would simply return the lamp and tell them it just didn't add up to the claims made -- Lowes needs to hear that kind of feedback.

The LED technology will get there -- this is just the 'teething pains' of a new technology.

-- john.
 
jcato said:
The LED replacement lamps are "just not there yet" - and, typically, are no better than half the lumens (and half the 'efficacy') of the classic fluorescent.
Click to expand...

I disagree with this as a blanket statement. They may not be there for some applications but there for others.

I just finished a basement remodeling project. New drop ceiling, replace troffers with cans. I have 7 cans for 300 sqft. First tried 65w incandescent floods. Passable but wanted more illumination.

Then I tested different bulbs in 2 of the cans to compare.

1. First up, 26W dimmable CFLs. Plenty bright but dim range was limited (seemed to dim about 50%), and just perceptably noisy under the dimmer. Not cheap either, about $20 per bulb.
2. High output (18W, 1100 lumen LED). Very bright, similar to dimmable CFL, same cost, no noise.
3. Next up, HomeDepot had some Philips 2 packs for $20. R30 floods, 730 lumen, 10.5W. BEAUTIFUL light, brighter than the incandescents, fully dimmable to about 10%, dead quiet under dimmer.

Bought enough to fill rest of the cans. Lights the room with 73.5W, cheaper than the dimmable CFL's, dead quiet, and instant full brightness, no waiting for a few minutes while the CFL's come up to brightness.
 
jderimig said:
I disagree with this as a blanket statement. They may not be there for some applications but there for others.
Click to expand...

John, I was referring to the LED 'replacement' for the 'classic fluorescent' TUBULAR bulb (like the T8) - which was the type of fixture Derek was initially referring to as well as his experiences after purchasing the item. I should have made that clearer in my comments. You are correct that the 'can' lights are better than that (somewhat around 'parity' - but with the added advantages of instant start and longer life). This will only get better in time.

-- john.
 
jcato said:
Derek, I saw your previous post and felt I should respond and just didn't -- got on to other things. Sorry.

The LED replacement lamps are "just not there yet" - and, typically, are no better than half the lumens (and half the 'efficacy') of the classic fluorescent. There's some pretty good reading (technical, tho it is) here:

https://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/ssl/troffer_benchmark_01-09.pdf

Pay attention to the "Efficacy (lm/W)" criteria (lumens/watt -- e.g. pg 9 and 12), as that will tell you a lot and, while the LED technology is *natively* more efficient (the raw LEDs), by the time you get them in an actual product, that efficiency is lost (generally, the F32T8 fluorescent (your standard lamp) is twice as efficient as the LED replacements). That means, simply, you'll spend *more* (not less) on electricity with the LEDS than fluorescents - to get the same illumination level.

It's not really necessary to read the entire document -- the 'Conclusion' does a pretty good job of getting the point across (as well as the 'Untangling the Performance Claims...' immediately preceding).

I would simply return the lamp and tell them it just didn't add up to the claims made -- Lowes needs to hear that kind of feedback.

The LED technology will get there -- this is just the 'teething pains' of a new technology.

-- john.
Click to expand...

Hi John,

That's interesting reading. Too bad led tube aren't there yet. It would have been an ideal solution.

I guess I'll just stick with regular flourescent tubes for now and switch them out for leds when they get better.
 

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