Eggtimer WiFi Switch Questions

[RocketFeller]

I have an email in to their customer support, but I thought that maybe forum members might be able to answer my questions.


We are using two altimeters for redundant deployment (both RRC3 units) and an old G-Wiz for additional data. The altimeters are housed in the nosecone in a 4” tube. Because of the wall thickness (4” – it is a foam nosecone covered in carbon fiber cloth) it would be a bit difficult to install normal switches. It seems that either the remote switch or the WiFi switch would be ideal for this. We are leaning towards the WiFi switch- kids love anything that can be done on an iPhone… 

Do the WiFi switches need a special battery, or will they work off a standard 9V? Also, is it possible to control two switches from the same phone/device? We plan to use two switches to insure redundancy.

Lastly, how hard is it to assemble/solder the units? It is for a school project and we can get help from the Tech department. Would we need any equipment other than a fine-point soldering iron?

Thanks for any help!

 

[michigander]

I use lipo's for power , same phone / devise I'm 100% sure you would need to change the wifi connection / and easy to build with good light

hope this helps

 

[watermelonman]

I have an email in to their customer support, but I thought that maybe forum members might be able to answer my questions.


We are using two altimeters for redundant deployment (both RRC3 units) and an old G-Wiz for additional data. The altimeters are housed in the nosecone in a 4” tube. Because of the wall thickness (4” – it is a foam nosecone covered in carbon fiber cloth) it would be a bit difficult to install normal switches. It seems that either the remote switch or the WiFi switch would be ideal for this. We are leaning towards the WiFi switch- kids love anything that can be done on an iPhone… 

Do the WiFi switches need a special battery, or will they work off a standard 9V? Also, is it possible to control two switches from the same phone/device? We plan to use two switches to insure redundancy.

Lastly, how hard is it to assemble/solder the units? It is for a school project and we can get help from the Tech department. Would we need any equipment other than a fine-point soldering iron?

Thanks for any help!

I use mine with 9v batteries for now. Works great.

It certainly is possible to control multiple switches from one device, but you will have to join a wireless network, use the switch, then leave that network, and join the next.

The switch is not as easy to assemble as pin through hole devices, but I did it. In fact it was my first successful SMD project. Extra light helps a ton, and perhaps a magnifying glass depending on your vision. The first IC and first resistor or two will be a pain, but then you get the hang of it.

 

[RocketFeller]

I use lipo's for power , same phone / devise I'm 100% sure you would need to change the wifi connection / and easy to build with good light

hope this helps

I use mine with 9v batteries for now. Works great.

It certainly is possible to control multiple switches from one device, but you will have to join a wireless network, use the switch, then leave that network, and join the next.

The switch is not as easy to assemble as pin through hole devices, but I did it. In fact it was my first successful SMD project. Extra light helps a ton, and perhaps a magnifying glass depending on your vision. The first IC and first resistor or two will be a pain, but then you get the hang of it.

Thanks for the replies!

I like 9V batteries because they are cheap and readily available, so since they work we will probably stick with them. I put fresh batteries in every time and then save them to use in our smoke detectors afterwards.

It sounds like it might be easiest just to use two phones for the two switches (not a problem, my wife and I both have iPhones).

As far as the assembly, my vision is terrible - ever since I turned forty a few years back my close-up vision has been going downhill. Luckily my students have sharp young eyes, but I might need to pick up a pair of magnifying specs for myself...

 

[djs]

One thing cerving told us was that the 9v batteries have a faster drain than LiPO, but ours worked pretty good on it- had signal for at least 2 hours if not more, in cold weather.

 

[Worsaer]

Did you say "wrapped in carbon fiber"? That may impede your wifi signal.

 

[RocketFeller]

One thing cerving told us was that the 9v batteries have a faster drain than LiPO, but ours worked pretty good on it- had signal for at least 2 hours if not more, in cold weather.

He responded quickly and told me that they strongly recommend the LiPo batteries. I wouldn't really want to go against the recommendations, but I tend to shy away from rechargeable batteries for things I seldom use. When I put a brand-new Duracell alkaline battery in I know exactly what to expect.

Did you say "wrapped in carbon fiber"? That may impede your wifi signal.

That could be an issue! I wasn't sure if carbon fiber would impede a signal but, if it does, we may have to go back to an external switch. The nose is wrapped in two layers of CF cloth.

 

[Worsaer]

That could be an issue! I wasn't sure if carbon fiber would impede a signal but, if it does, we may have to go back to an external switch. The nose is wrapped in two layers of CF cloth.

You may also want to consider the Featherweight Magnetic switch. I have used them with great success.

 

[Onebadhawk]

Dan,,
I have dealt /worked with Cris a great deal. ..
He designed the device. ..
I'd put a lot of stock in what he says...
He says the same thing for the WiFi Eggtimer, ,,
the wifi consumes a lot of power....
Before making the decision to use a 9V instead of a 2s lipo
find out if that switch defaults open or closed when it's battery fails..
And also are your intentions to use one battery for the switch and it's respective altimeter. ...
You'd really be much better off following his recommendation of a 2s lipo..
They're easy to charge and don't have a memory like NiCads or NiMh's do.....

One more,,,
Do some testing with that carbon fibre covered nosecone...
I know CF stops an RF signal..
I don't know about either the remote switches transmitters signal
or the wifi signal for the wifi switch....
Cris would certainly be the man to ask....

Teddy

 

[cerving]

You only need the WiFi when you turn it on or off. I've had reports from people using CF rockets that the WiFi Switch works fine, but you need to be very close to the AV bay when you first acquire the signal, after that you get maybe 10' or 20'. Considering that vs. sticking a screwdriver in a hole or fishing around with a magnet, that should be adequate.