Build Thread - "OROC NXRS 2014 Research Test Vehicle" by Binder Design

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Here we have another octagon chute, also in pretty colors, this one a 45" for the main. It kind of felt like I was spreading a beach towel out on the carpet... :)

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Assembled main harness. The av-bay will be located at the aft end of the upper section.

There is just something really great about opening up a rocket kit and having it contain every part you need...
 
Actually I was seeing if he was following the instructions or doing the exact opposite. Which is what most people do. Don't ask me why because what do I know? :)
To answer both your questions:

I am planning on ejecting the nosecone, contrary to what the instructions suggest...
Actually, on my last 2 Binder builds I do eject the av-bay. I was planning on doing the same for the rocket, but I was worried about having to drag the chute out of the long main bay. Hence, I thought it would be a safer bet to blow the main out and eject the nose.
 
To answer both your questions:

I am planning on ejecting the nosecone, contrary to what the instructions suggest...
Actually, on my last 2 Binder builds I do eject the av-bay. I was planning on doing the same for the rocket, but I was worried about having to drag the chute out of the long main bay. Hence, I thought it would be a safer bet to blow the main out and eject the nose.

Contrary to popular belief, the chute is not blown out as much as pulled out by the part being ejected. Being that the AV bay is the heavier part, it does a more efficient job of pulling out the main than the relatively light weight nosecone.

But it is your rocket, so feel free to do whatever you are more comfortable with. :)
 
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Reasonable price too.

TA
Indeed!

Contrary to popular belief, the chute is not blown out as much as pulled out by the part being ejected. Being that the AV bay is the heavier part, it does a more efficient job of pulling out the main than the relatively light weight nosecone.

But it is your rocket, so feel free to do whatever you are more comfortable with. :)
Good to know - thanks for the input!
 
Now if you can just get one to hold together with the new Loki 4400.


TA
 
Looks good Chuck! I see you're using Titebond? Is that block of wood on the forward centering ring for your rail button?
 
Is that block of wood on the forward centering ring for your rail button?

Yes, and I'll put another on the rear centering ring also. I just don't have luck hitting the centering ring dead center when I drill for the rail buttons.

I stole this idea from qquake2k.
 
Yes, and I'll put another on the rear centering ring also. I just don't have luck hitting the centering ring dead center when I drill for the rail buttons.

I stole this idea from qquake2k.

Understood. Cool idea! I've never tried anchoring rail buttons into my centering rings before.
 
What do you anchor them too?

For Binder kits I just epoxy them in place. (See, that's where I do follow the instructions.) Since those vehicles are lightweight enough I've never had a problem. For my Comp 4, I use T-Nuts.
 
Ooh, cool! Did you design that in OR?
I was actually thinking that this would be the first kit I've built in a while where I paint it exactly as it appears in the ad... (The red/white/black.)

Yep, first time I've done that with OR. Pretty easy.

I'm thinking I need to keep my paint scheme different, 'cause what happens if (or when) we all want to drag race 'em?

In fact, I hereby challenge you to a drag race at the Spring Thunder Launch.
 
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Yep, first time I've done that with OR. Pretty easy.
Cool - I'll have to try that out!

I'm thinking I need to keep my paint scheme different, 'cause what happens if (or when) we all want to drag race 'em?

In fact, I hereby challenge you to a drag race at the Spring Thunder Launch.
Challenge accepted!!!

Upper decal won't be visible because the lettering is in white. Just an FYI...:)
Good point...
 
What a neat idea for a fund raiser. Great looking rocket, too!
 
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