2nd bad can of Rustoleum 2X

[Titan II]

Has anyone ever had problems with 2in1 not adhering to plastic such as nose cones/ transitions?

No

 

[flyingeagle]

I just bought the 2in1 two days ago and I keep starring at the can wondering if I should take it back. The 2X gray primer is more like a satin paint when dried. I have 5 rockets so far primed with this stuff. I am using 2X gloss white on a couple of rockets and the others will be Apple red so I had to do two coats over this gray with 2X white primer to keep the paint from darkening.

 

[flyingeagle]

Excellent job on the Black Brant

 

[KenECoyote]

When I first started using R2X for rockets ~10 years ago, it was fantastic and I've built dozens of rockets with dozens of cans of it. I then took a 5 year break and when I came back and used new R2X last and this year, it was horrible.

 

[flyingeagle]

I see a lot of reply’s about the 2X paint and a lot of people love using it. Yet I see people taking what that have in Rustoleum, boxing it and taking it to the back yard with a shovel. I’m getting more confused! I’m feeling like an air traffic controller trying to watch for so much traffic and irreversible mistakes. To many formulas. This might work with this one or this might be a bad idea and so on. This is why I’m thinking of retreating back to Testor paints one shelf is for the enamel and the other lacquer.

 

[flyingeagle]

Rustoleum 2X flat gray primer is more like a satin paint. It gums up the sand paper. Customer service said it’s not friendly to sand to try the universal primer because it sticks to everything. It sounded like that commercial, I use that s- -t on everything.

 

[flyingeagle]

I see your using primer sealer. I will be using for the first time 2in1 filler sandable primer. Is there a difference?

 

[KenECoyote]

I see your using primer sealer. I will be using for the first time 2in1 filler sandable primer. Is there a difference?

The 2in1 filler sealer is thicker. I liked using it because it helps to fill spirals (slightly) and cover slight imperfections. I've used it on probably 90% of my rockets, but idk if the formula has changed.

However you definitely need to sand it after since it goes on quite rough.

Ymmv

 

[lakeroadster]

I see your using primer sealer. I will be using for the first time 2in1 filler sandable primer. Is there a difference?

The sealer is made to do just that, seal the surface being painted and prevent future issues. So if you're having paint issues and are fixing those paint issues, use the "Sealer".

I've found that the "Primer Sealer" and the "2 in 1 Filler & Sandable" both work great.

 

[flyingeagle]

You guys would know better than me on the 2in1 filler. My main concern has anyone in here ever had any problems with this primer on plastic nose cones or plastic transitions? Such as not drying or won’t adhere to the plastic? As you mentioned it drys rough. How easy is it to sand? I have a new can I just bought and if it won’t work well on raw plastic, the store will take it back as long it wasn’t used

 

[lakeroadster]

As you mentioned it drys rough. How easy is it to sand?

It's very easy to sand.

You guys would know better than me on the 2in1 filler. My main concern has anyone in here ever had any problems with this primer on plastic nose cones or plastic transitions? Such as not drying or won’t adhere to the plastic? I have a new can I just bought and if it won’t work well on raw plastic, the store will take it back as long it wasn’t used

You asked that previously, and got 3 answers.

Has anyone ever had problems with 2in1 not adhering to plastic such as nose cones/ transitions?

Never.

I used 2X primer on this spool, and the paint is flaking off the plastic straw I'm using as a Kevlar conduit... and, as previously discussed, when I top coated over the 2X primer, paint herpes occurred.

View attachment 545864View attachment 545862View attachment 545863View attachment 545865

No

 

[flyingeagle]

Thanks

 

[MALBAR 70]

You guys would know better than me on the 2in1 filler. My main concern has anyone in here ever had any problems with this primer on plastic nose cones or plastic transitions? Such as not drying or won’t adhere to the plastic? As you mentioned it drys rough. How easy is it to sand? I have a new can I just bought and if it won’t work well on raw plastic, the store will take it back as long it wasn’t used

Like I told you in the PM, try the 2in1, you will like it. It works great on all surfaces, plastic included. Once it is dry, it sands like a dream, providing a nice smooth surface for your color coats with no other prep involved.
Sometimes, no matter how hard one tries to get a showroom finish on their models, it just isn't going to happen.

 

[Titan II]

My main concern has anyone in here ever had any problems with this primer on plastic nose cones or plastic transitions? Such as not drying or won’t adhere to the plastic?

You asked this question before in post 57 and there were responses in posts 58 and 61. Opinion shopping?

 

[billpr]

I used Rustoleum for years with great results. About two years ago something changed. I started running into issues with cracking, crinkling, poor adhesion and a couple of instances where the paint wouldn't dry even when left for several days.

My process never changed, Paints are stored indoors. Paint and the item to be painted are both warm to the touch. If it was warm outside I'd set everything in the sun for a while to let it warm up. If it was below 80F I'd warm the paint can in warm water and use a hair dryer to warm the item being painted. Paints were shaken for at least a couple of minutes, Usually more. Always used light coats and stuck to the recoat windows. If I couldn't apply the next coat within 15 mins. I waited at least a week.

After fighting this for almost a year and buying replacement can of paint, I finally gave up and threw all my Rustoleum in the trash. I switched to Krylon for most and Duplicolor for the items where I wanted a special color or some type of metallic.

I had a Phoenix that I put together and painted with normal Rustoleum white on a warm summer day. Did two light coats about 15 mins. apart then one medium coat. Left the rocket in a warm shop for 24 hrs. Thinking it was dry the next day I grabbed it and the paint was still wet. I left it sit for several more days and it never cured. The paint remained soft and had a slick almost oily feel to it. I left it sit for weeks before I decided to start scrapping it off and stated over.

I don't know what changed with them but I won't even consider their products for the most basic of projects.

Thank you for, the posting, always figured it was a chemical problem. I bought a can of Rustoleum flat black. Went outdoors on a sunny warm day. I shook the rattle can for about 4-5 minutes. Paint came out fine, only Gloss instead of Flat. Later on and several model rocket later the can started to spray more of a Flat color. figured the paint was mixed up.

 

[flyingeagle]

Ok I’m sold

 

[flyingeagle]

I was looking at the Kevlar conduit you made. I couldn’t find hollow coffee steers in any of my local convenience store near me. They went to solid or wood steers. I went to Hobby Lobby and where their modeling tools and paints were I found plastic tubing. I bought four packages, two of each different size and they work perfectly. There is enough in the two packages for at least 32 rockets. When I seen your paint pealing off the conduit you could try these tubes being they are made out of a thicker plastic the same plastic model car kits are made out of. I’m going this route like you did because my Kevlar just goes through a hole in the centering rings to the bottom of the motor tube with a slip knot.

 

[flyingeagle]

Yes opinion shopping. If a doctor tells you that you need a major surgery and may never walk again, are you going for a second opinion? If no well good luck with that. My apologies to everyone else here for asking to many questions. I will step down and let the arrogant people have the site.

 

[Hifin Sword]

When I've had splatter problems with the Rust-oleum 2X rattle cans, I take them back to Ace Hardware where I bought them. They are happy to give me a new can. I found that if I dab off the nozzle hole with a wet paper towel after every use, I have fewer problems with splattering.

For my computer-matched colors on my RC airplanes I use Lowes. They will mix sample colors in small jars for about $4 or $5 and the ones I get clean up with soap and water. I use a brush with foam or hair to apply them.

On the Corsair below I used Rust-oleum 2X rattle cans of Navy Blue, Wildflower Blue, Sunburst Yellow and Gloss White colors over the Rust-oleum Flat Gray primer. The front yellow cowl ring is plastic. The rest is EPO foam. I usually put a coat of clear Semigloss Minwax Polycrylic over the entire model to seal the decal edges and for scratch protection.

 

[flyingeagle]

Nice looking plane. I have never flown an RC plane but I did buy a Apprentice STS a couple years ago from Horizon hobby to learn how to fly. I purchased the GPS and the Land assist. The plane still sits in the box new. I wish when I bought it I had purchased the flight simulator. The Corsair is one of my favorites next to the P51 Mustang.

 

[Hifin Sword]

Thanks flyingeagle. The Apprentice STS is a good beginner's plane as far as flying, But getting it in the air can be a challenge, especially for a beginner. The Flight Controller and remote Rx it comes with has to be setup with very specific settings and cannot be changed easily if you are not using the Tx it comes with as an RTF model. I've setup 3 in the past 12 months helping newbies. One of my students had HorizonHobby send him a new AR630 Rx after he couldn't get the model to fly level in the SAFE mode. Another just sent it back because no one could get the model to bind properly so the controls would actually control the surfaces. If you ever do get yours flying, be sure to use 8 rubber bands to keep the wing on. Mine only had 4 and the wing and fuselage departed each other in flight this past summer. In 10 years of flying planes I had never had a problem using 4 rubber bands till this occurred

 

[Hifin Sword]

Nice looking plane. I have never flown an RC plane but I did buy a Apprentice STS a couple years ago from Horizon hobby to learn how to fly. I purchased the GPS and the Land assist. The plane still sits in the box new. I wish when I bought it I had purchased the flight simulator. The Corsair is one of my favorites next to the P51 Mustang.

FE, there's a lot of help on RCGroups.com for newbies. The SAFE Rxs do make it easier. If there's a club near you, many will offer training with a BuddyBox setup and a trainer instructor. I've trained a few new and returning pilots with them this past year. The RealFlight simulator sold by HorizonHobby is a good training aid too if you have a PC. It doesn't work AFAIK on Apple PCs.
Don

 

[flyingeagle]

If I can get the nack to fly a plane I will up grade to a better plane with a BNF and get a better transmitter. I see 6and 8 in transmitters but don’t know what would be better. The rockets are nice but rather learn to fly RC.

 

[Hobie1dog]

i went in the hallway this afternoon and sprayed white paint on 2 launch lugs, when I came back from eating out 3 hours later, as soon as I opened the door to the condo it smelled like paint.

 

[flyingeagle]

Just from painting 2 launch Lugs?

 

[Hifin Sword]

If I can get the nack to fly a plane I will up grade to a better plane with a BNF and get a better transmitter. I see 6and 8 in transmitters but don’t know what would be better. The rockets are nice but rather learn to fly RC.

The older line of Txs is the DX series. The standard RTF Tx is not what you want. It cannot do buddybox. You can buy a used DX Tx on RCGroups.com classified thread. But don't buy less than 8Chs. I own a DX18 Gen1 I bought there for half price. The newer DX Gen 2 do voice and wireless buddyboxing. Mine can't talk to me but that's fine. I can do buddybox but only wired, not wireless, and only as the trainer, not the instructor. So I swap Txs with the student when I do wireless buddyboxing.

The newest line is the NX series. Normally you would use 2 channels just for stabilization. One to change flight modes and one to change GAIN for stabs. Or if you only use GAIN to turn gains down to zero, you only need that channel. Another Android based OS is the IX series. Anyway, I would not recommend anything less than 8 Chs unless you are not sure you really want to pursue RC. A 6Ch allows you to put THROTTLE, AILERONS, ELEVATOR and RUDDER on a plane and control the stabilization modes on Ch5 and the Gains on Ch6. If you want Retracts or Flaps, you would want an 8Ch Tx. if you do stab too. As a beginner, I would say you want the SAFE line of Rxs so get at least an 8Ch Tx.

Most of my models have retracts and flaps. And my jets usually have the nose wheel steering on a separate channel, Ch9. If you split any control surfaces like dual ailerons or dual elevators, you will need Ch10. My next radio will be an NX10 most likely I do use 10Ch Rxs a lot but not until I had been flying about 5 years. The BNFs with a new generation Rx uses the SRXL2 forward programming done in the Tx. Some but not all SRXL2 Rxs have the stabilization which is not to be confused with telemetry.
Don

 

[flyingeagle]

I bought my STS RTF almost 3 years and not sure what transmitter it came with. The guy at the hobby store told me that I should up grade it to an 8 channel so when I learn to fly it I can use it when I up grade to a BNF. He said what they supply is only to get me by with the STS but it not the greatest.

 

[flyingeagle]

The box reads Transmitter is Spektrum DXe 2.4GHz DSMX

 

[Hifin Sword]

The box reads Transmitter is Spektrum DXe 2.4GHz DSMX

I'm not familiar with the DXe. But if it is a basic Tx, your salesman is right. They are designed to get you in the air with a minimum of programming and experience. The problem with flying a SAFE Rx is the VERY RESTRICTED throws. That can lead to the inability to turn or climb away from trees, poles, etc. in the flying area. But SAFE will keep a beginner pilot from overcontrolling the plane into the ground. A BuddyBox (BB) setup allows an instructor pilot to take over at anytime by just moving his/her sticks on the 2nd instructor Tx. OlderTxs like my 1st gen DX18 could only do wired BB. But my DX18 can be a student Tx with a newer wireless BB capable Tx. I do know some of the beginner Txs cannot do BBing without buying a remote Rx to be installed in them. An NX-8 allows you to run a full house plane, Thr, Ail, Ele, Rud, Flaps and retracts plus have 2 more channels for changing the Flight Modes (FMs) and GAINS inflight. I always run with FM1 Stab OFF, FM2 - ONLY AS3X ON, FM3 - AS3X and SAFE ON.

If you go to my RCG's BLOG HERE take a look at one of my other beginner threads HERE. It talks about some topics a newbie might not know.
Don

 

[Hobie1dog]

Just from painting 2 launch Lugs?

there's no ventilation in the hallway of the condo bldg, so the fumes just hung in the air with no place to go. I normally spray things out on our 8x8 patio, but it's too cold for me to go outside.