Originally posted by Lucky 94
Any tips for this.
Originally posted by Rich Pitzeruse
My only tip is to use the copperhead igniter. I've seen quite a few of these cases blow the rear closure, and in all cases, they used some other form of igniter. My theory is, the larger igniter plugged the nozzle, the motor over pressurized, and popped the rear closure.
I have dozens of flights on my 24mm case, and never popped a closure, and I've only used copperheads in them.
-Rich
Take a cigarette lighter and fire up the non-pyro end. The foil will delaminate, and it's then much easier to get good connections to it. No tape or special clip is then required. I've had good - but not perfect - results this way. Once in a while, one won't light, but that's the case for just about any ignitor.Originally posted by Lucky 94
i have heard bad reviews for the copperheads, but i can't afford anything else at the moment.
I've used external hooks. They can be faired in very nicely with the usual filling materials - epoxy, FNF, bondo, etc - but you're probably well past that now.Is there anything but friction fitting for a min diameter rocket?
Originally posted by doug_man_sams
Take a cigarette lighter and fire up the non-pyro end. The foil will delaminate, and it's then much easier to get good connections to it. No tape or special clip is then required. I've had good - but not perfect - results this way. Once in a while, one won't light, but that's the case for just about any ignitor.
Originally posted by Rich Pitzeruse
I agree, this is exactly what I do. And like Doug says....yeah, sometimes a copperhead fails, but usually they work ok. Just make sure there are no copper threads on the sides of the igniter (which could cause a short to the other side) and usually they work ok. I'd rather replace a faulty igniter, than replace the case.
-Rich
Originally posted by Lucky 94
i have heard bad reviews for the copperheads, but i can't afford anything else at the moment.
Is there anything but friction fitting for a min diameter rocket?
Originally posted by Lucky 94
i will have to try them. How much and can you point me in their direction?
Originally posted by Lucky 94
I will have to use friction fit for now.
Thanks for the tip Rick. I seem to have about 50% success with copperheads, and the typical failure is simply that the copper foil is shorted somewhere. Funny thing is that the igniters that come with the reloads regularly fail to work for me, but the ones I bought in a separate pack almost always work. Maybe just a coincidence. What resistance do you see for a shorted igniter? FWIW, I always use a interlock clip.Originally posted by Rick Lindsey
Testing with an ohmeter will weed out most of the bad copperheads. We had nearly 100% fires with copperheads once we started checking the resistance of each one. If it's less than bout 0.9 ohms then it's not going to work (I may have had some at 0.8 ohms that worked), and it shouldn't be more than about 1.5 ohms. Take a grain of salt, though, as I'm remebering those numbers from a decade ago -- it's easy to work it out for yourself though once you start monitorign the resistance of the copperheads and see which ones work and which ones don't .
-Rick
Ditto. I use exclusively friction fitting with an outer wrap of tape on my 24 rms, and it hasn't failed me yet.Originally posted by Rick Lindsey
Friction fitting worked fine for me for years.
-Rick
Originally posted by paulk
Thanks for the tip Rick. I seem to have about 50% success with copperheads, and the typical failure is simply that the copper foil is shorted somewhere. Funny thing is that the igniters that come with the reloads regularly fail to work for me, but the ones I bought in a separate pack almost always work. Maybe just a coincidence. What resistance do you see for a shorted igniter? FWIW, I always use a interlock clip.
Originally posted by Rick Lindsey
... I think they may have started shipping them in little carboard tubes to avoid that now though?...
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