Wildman Blackhawk 38mm Questions

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Here is what I was thinking of for mounting the Power Perch in a 38mm minimum diameter airframe with no or minimal shaving of the Power Perch. I'm not sure if it would work but it might be worth a try. This could be a bit fiddly to get it all aligned and tightened down.

AV option2.jpg
 
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I order the kit last night. Hopefully I get it by middle of next week, I am so excited about this rocket I can't sleep!

Neuport, I might be coming to you for questions in the next few weeks/months.
 
Happy to help. I'm no expert but I have flown one successfully. I'm sure there are many folks on here that will be happy to help as well. Good luck.
 
Question

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So in the pink circle is the coupler that you stash the Raven, correct?

And the red circle is the piston?

If I wanted to use a drogue where would you put it? Would you put it near the nosecone, or in the main body?
 
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I labeled the parts so we are on the same page with naming. The coupler is glued into the payload body tube. It forms both the slip fit coupling to the fin can and it acts as the AV bay. To assemble the rocket, the pyro charges for deploying the main are mounted on the AV bay top plate which is made from a couple of bulk plates. The top, with the red connector and threaded rods, is then slipped into the payload tube until the bulk plates rest on the top of the coupler and the rods and red connector extend out the bottom of the coupler. The red connector is plugged into the mating red connector on the Raven/Power Perch and the black connector on the AV bay bottom plate is plugged into the mating black connector on the Raven/Power Perch. I color coded the connectors so I would connect the Raven the right way around every time and not mix up the apogee and main pyro charges. The rocket drifted 2.3 miles when done right, if the main had come out at apogee it would have drifted much farther.

The Raven/Power Perch is slipped into the coupler and the bottom is placed over the threaded rods and secured with wing nuts. Note that this can be a bit fiddly as the rods are easily pushed out of reach if they aren't aligned with the holes in the AV bottom plate. It would help to put nuts on both sides of the rods at the top plate to help hold them in place. I didn't have room for another nut but I may try a thin C-clip or a dab of glue. Also remember that I had to modify both the Power Perch and the coupler to get the Power Perch to fit into the coupler. The pyro charges for the apogee separation are mounted on the AV bay bottom plate.

The harness between the AV bay bottom plate and the fin can is neatly packaged and placed in the fin can and the coupler is slipped into the fin can. The harness between the AV bay top plate and piston is neatly packaged and slipped into the top of the payload tube. The piston is slipped in on top of the harness. The main chute and rest of the harness are neatly packaged and slipped in on top of the piston. The nose cone with radio already mounted (and turned on!) is slipped into the payload tube. I secure the nosecone to the payload tube with a 2-56 nylon screw used as a sheer pin and pressed into aligned holes in the nosecone shoulder and payload tube. I cut off the screw flush with the outside of the payload tube. If I need to remove it for some reason, e.g. aborted launch, I just press it in until it falls into the radio compartment. This as well as the ventilation holes are detailed in the kit instructions which you can download from Wildman's site. I aligned my sheer pin hole, the payload vent, the fin can vent, and the Power Perch magnetic switch location so I can easily tell where to slide the magnet to turn the Raven on and off. I put four small AV vents near the bottom of the payload tube, just above the coupler/payload joint and out of phase with the other holes. Be sure to arm the altimeter before leaving the launch stand and heading back to the launch control area.

In flight, when the altimeter detects apogee, it ignites the apogee charge which pressurizes the fin can and separates the rocket at the fin can/payload junction. This de-stabilizes the rocket so it does not come down ballistically. The backup apogee pyro charge goes off shortly after according to the program set in the Raven. The nose cone is prevented from falling off or being jolted off by the sheer pin. The de-stabilized rocket falls to 700 feet at which altitude the Raven ignites the main pyro charge to pressurize the payload tube, break the sheer pin, eject the nosecone and deploy the main. The main backup pyro goes off shortly after according to the program set in the Raven. The Raven allows you to program each of the four output channels independently based on a large number of parameters including user defined altitudes, times, velocities, accelerations, apogee, etc.

If you wanted to use a drogue chute or streamer with this setup, you would stow it in the fin can attached to the harness between the bottom of the AV bay and the fin can. There are other ways to set it up this is just the one I chose.

A few additional thoughts:
  • After a couple of flights I noticed that the kevlar harness material was getting fuzzy where it rubs on the edge of the fin can opening. This makes sense to me since the rocket falls several thousand feet from apogee with the fin can and payload whipping around. The main harness which falls a much shorter distance and likely with less whipping did not abrade noticeably. I took a piece of accessory cord, pulled out the core fibers, and slipped it over the harness at these rub locations as an abraision protector. I secured it with a light hand sewn stitch to keep it from sliding out of position.
  • When you are setting up your harness lay everything out to make sure the various parts of the rocket can't bang into each other as it comes down.
  • I thought my rocket drifted a lot with the drogueless setup. Be sure to sim your setup before flying as you might be surprised how far it could drift especially if you are going for altitude. On the day I flew, I believe someone said the jet stream was right over the field at 15k or so and so I expect on my L2 flight I had some pretty stiff winds aloft that really moved it.
  • Whatever you do, don't forget to ground test your setup to make sure all the laundry gets deployed as expected.
 
@Neuport

Seriously you are a great asset on this project, I am a hands on learner. So when I get the kit in my hands things will go a lot quicker. I am just trying to figure out what else I need so I can order it.

My blackhawk will have more drag then yours, I will be adding launch lugs and a motor retainer. So im thinking and sim'ing it at 3000 ft roughly, on a CTI H123.

Im thinking of running a drogue/streamer on my L1 just to help it prevent from breaking a fin or zipper. But we will see, plans are still in the works.
 
Just so I am clear, this rocket now comes with a Filament Wound nosecone, correct? I really hope that it does, as that adds a lot of value in my opinion.
 
Mien did not, but I am not sure when it came with a filament nose cone.
 
So I am still waiting for my kit in the mail.... (My card is not charged either which means they have not shipped it yet)

It has been 3 weeks now with unanswered emails to Wildman Rocketry, kinda getting disappointed. Hopefully someone will look at this post and finally answer my emails.

Dear Wildman, Please talk to me!
 
So I am still waiting for my kit in the mail.... (My card is not charged either which means they have not shipped it yet)

It has been 3 weeks now with unanswered emails to Wildman Rocketry, kinda getting disappointed. Hopefully someone will look at this post and finally answer my emails.

Dear Wildman, Please talk to me!

When it comes to wildman just call. Easiest option.

I am sure with LDRS they were swamped getting ready. Just give a buzz and check in.
 
When it comes to wildman just call. Easiest option.

I am sure with LDRS they were swamped getting ready. Just give a buzz and check in.

I already called about a week and a half ago and someone mentioned it would be mailed this last Monday. No notification of shipping or my card being charged.

It just upsets me that I have been sending emails (prior and after LDRS), those emails are not being answered.
 
I already called about a week and a half ago and someone mentioned it would be mailed this last Monday. No notification of shipping or my card being charged.

It just upsets me that I have been sending emails (prior and after LDRS), those emails are not being answered.

I feel your frustration. Trust me, just call again and just ask what is up. E-Mail is not the most effective form of communication with Wildman and neither is this forum. Just call them tomorrow to see what is up - there is quite possibly a good explanation.

I waited for many months for my Black Friday order. Yes, it took a while and yes it was completely worth the wait.
 
Trust me, just call again
+1 on calling. I had a similar experience getting my
Blackhawk. Nice folks and helpful on the phone and nice rocket. I would certainly order again. But not if the timing was critical.
 
+1 on calling. I had a similar experience getting my
Blackhawk. Nice folks and helpful on the phone and nice rocket. I would certainly order again. But not if the timing was critical.

I understand, but in my mind if someone is running a business and encourages emails for questions then why can you not answer them in 3 weeks? Just makes me as a customer not feel like important.

I can call, that is not the issue. I do not want to be a troll about this, just hoping what has been said so far gets someones attention.
 
Tim Lehr is an "in the moment" kind of guy. I'm not saying this to make excuses or cast doubt, but purely for understanding. His mode of operation is much different than the many more deliberate scientist and engineer types found on this forum. Tim's "in the moment" for the last three weeks has probably been all about LDRS. But he does care and most likely has not forgotten and will bend over backwards to get things done right for you. Just call--you will be his (or Jackie's) "in the moment" at that time.

I understand, but in my mind if someone is running a business and encourages emails for questions then why can you not answer them in 3 weeks? Just makes me as a customer not feel like important.

I can call, that is not the issue. I do not want to be a troll about this, just hoping what has been said so far gets someones attention.
 
So, that is all fine and dandy. I've had good luck with Tim in the past so I'm not concerned. He will most likely be traveling back from LDRS for a bit longer.

Anyone that has purchased one recently, did you get a FWFG cone with it, or did you buy one separately?
 
I bought from him 2-3 weeks ago and it came in 7 days. I would suspect it was out of stock.
 
I finally got my kit and I have a couple of questions.

Everything has a cloudy grey tint to it, I have been washing the parts inside and out with just water and a washcloth, it removed the surface dust but it still has that cloudy look to it. Anyway to resolve this?

Also there is some residue on the fins from my guess would be tape or something, is there a chemical I can use that will not damage the fiberglass?

Also how can I tell what kind of nosecone I received? I am trying to see it is RF/GPS transparent.

Last question has anyone used this kit with the 38mm AV-Bay with the featherweight altimeter? It seems the end caps of the Av bay will not fit in the coupler.
 
BLKKROW said:
I finally got my kit and I have a couple of questions.

Everything has a cloudy grey tint to it, I have been washing the parts inside and out with just water and a washcloth, it removed the surface dust but it still has that cloudy look to it. Anyway to resolve this?

My tubes were like that too. Try waxing/clear coating.


Also there is some residue on the fins from my guess would be tape or something, is there a chemical I can use that will not damage the fiberglass?


WD-40. Spray it on let it soak a few seconds and wipe.

Also how can I tell what kind of nosecone I received? I am trying to see it is RF/GPS transparent.

It's graphite, whole thing is except the outer layer of fins. Your good with RF.

Last question has anyone used this kit with the 38mm AV-Bay with the featherweight altimeter? It seems the end caps of the Av bay will not fit in the coupler.


The 38mm av bay is meant for shorter couplers. If you have a raven is recommend just setting up a normal sled. The featherweight av bay isn't supposed to fit in the coupler (I think)

see the response In between your questions.
 
I used a piece of Balsa with one layer of carbon tape on it. Stronger than necessary easy to trim to size easy to mark and pretty cheap. I only used the CF on one side, it was plenty strong.
 
I used a piece of Balsa with one layer of carbon tape on it. Stronger than necessary easy to trim to size easy to mark and pretty cheap. I only used the CF on one side, it was plenty strong.

I just wanted to use the Magnetic switch to turn on the raven, I have the power perch also but it is a bit too wide for the coupler.
 
You can get a standalone magnetic switch as well. just put it near a vent hole so you can see if its on or not. my GF uses magnetic switches exclusively.
 
1. Everything has a cloudy grey tint to it, I have been washing the parts inside and out with just water and a washcloth, it removed the surface dust but it still has that cloudy look to it. Anyway to resolve this?

2. Also there is some residue on the fins from my guess would be tape or something, is there a chemical I can use that will not damage the fiberglass?

3. Also how can I tell what kind of nosecone I received? I am trying to see it is RF/GPS transparent.

1. After I was through with construction I finished mine with spray on non-hazing auto wax. Simple. The color was not changed still a bit of a charcoal color. A wet curing finish like two part resin may or may not darken it. You could always paint it.

2. Use alcohol or mineral spirits.

3. I used a 70cm RF tracker with the radio and antenna completely enclosed in the Blackhawk 38 NC and I had no problems with RF attenuation.
 
1. After I was through with construction I finished mine with spray on non-hazing auto wax. Simple. The color was not changed still a bit of a charcoal color. A wet curing finish like two part resin may or may not darken it. You could always paint it.

2. Use alcohol or mineral spirits.

3. I used a 70cm RF tracker with the radio and antenna completely enclosed in the Blackhawk 38 NC and I had no problems with RF attenuation.

Thanks for the reply,

I was thinking of using a gloss finish from a spray can. With the non-hazing auto wax once it was dried was it permanent? Or is it like an auto wax that can be removed with a towel?

I am also thinking of doing the same thing you did with your raven/power perch, to get it to fit inside the coupler. Also with your rocket I noticed some parts that did not come with the kit, like the piston or coupler. I think you using the coupler the kit comes with as the piston but the coupler on yours is fiberglass was the from a different vendor?
 
Thanks for the reply,

1. With the non-hazing auto wax once it was dried was it permanent? Or is it like an auto wax that can be removed with a towel?

2. Also with your rocket I noticed some parts that did not come with the kit, like the piston or coupler. I think you using the coupler the kit comes with as the piston but the coupler on yours is fiberglass was the from a different vendor?

1. There was really no build that I could see with the auto wax. I had sanded the exterior very smooth and the wax just slicked it up a bit more. If you want a glossy, high build finish you will need something else like your spray can. I am sure there are others on here who can give good advice on a glossy finish for raw fiberglass. I used the wax because I did my entire build, from start to launch, in five days and just didn't have time for anything that had to cure.

2. I ordered an extra fiberglass coupler from Wildman when I ordered the kit. But, the coupler that comes with the kit may be long enough to do both if you cut it. Whatever you do, if you try fitting the Raven + Powerperch like I did be super careful and do all your fitting before gluing in the coupler in case the coupler is ruined.
 
1. There was really no build that I could see with the auto wax. I had sanded the exterior very smooth and the wax just slicked it up a bit more. If you want a glossy, high build finish you will need something else like your spray can. I am sure there are others on here who can give good advice on a glossy finish for raw fiberglass. I used the wax because I did my entire build, from start to launch, in five days and just didn't have time for anything that had to cure.

2. I ordered an extra fiberglass coupler from Wildman when I ordered the kit. But, the coupler that comes with the kit may be long enough to do both if you cut it. Whatever you do, if you try fitting the Raven + Powerperch like I did be super careful and do all your fitting before gluing in the coupler in case the coupler is ruined.

Yeah I will be really careful, I have been noticing on the power perch the side opposite of the battery it seems If I shave the PCB down a little it should be able to fin in the coupler. Plus if I shave down the inside of the coupler it should fit in perfectly.
 
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