Best Clear Coat Methods

I clear coat almost all my rockets. It seems clear coat is the toughest to get that "wet gloss look". I use Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2X, I can get the paint to work just great, but every once in a while when I apply the clear, I can't always achieve the best results. I either get "overspray/mist" spots or get too much on and get runs or it seems to clump and "crack". I do what all the directions say, I apply 3 light coats a few minutes apart, then a final coat. I make sure I'm around 60F, and put the paint/clear in warm water. Just wondering what other folks do to achieve the best results?

Just the way you do. Well, almost. I lay down what I call a rough clear first, which means it may have a bit of orange peel texture to it. Let it dry thoroughly. Wet sand it with a 400 grit or fine (wet) steel wool. That will give your finish coat something to bite on and help level some of the paint seams. I also believe it helps prevent runs.

I try and do it in good light and at an angle (which changes during painting, depending on which part of the rocket you're on) where you can see the paint going on. When you see it build up and it hits "flash-point," stop. Immediately. Try and be fairly quick about it. It's easiest to see this on the fins 'cause they're flat, but you can detect it on the tube as well—it's all in your angle to the light. Practice on a flat surface and you will be able to see what I mean by "flash-point." When all the orange peel is gone and the paint has built-up to a glassy sheet, it will flash at you like a mirror. Again, be quick. Don't linger.

I generally start with the bottom edges of the fins, then outboard fin edges, then body tube and nose and then hit the flat parts and leading edges of the fins.

This method is not fool-proof (which is unfortunate for me), but with practice, you'll see your clear-coats get better and better. My big problem is I'll think I'm "almost" there and then hit it again or "it's perfect except for this one little spot." I've learned to stop there (mostly). If it really bugs me, either from a run or a bit of peel, I'll wet sand and do it again. But I really don't like to.

I hope someone posts a better way, because I'd like to know it.

I find very thin epoxy is more forgiving and an even stronger coat. You can brush it on and run your hand (with glove) or a clean flat rag down the side with alcohol. Let it cure and the epoxy naturally flattens out a bit.

Clear coating is a personal choice.
If you are looking at it simply to get more gloss then there are a few fairly recently introduced rattle can clears that have good UV inhibitors added to slow down the yellowing process that occurs in all clears that do not have UV inhibitors. That is particularly the case with Testors Gloss and matte clears and Krylon Crystal Clear.
Krylons UV resistant Gloss Clear #1305 and Matte Clear UV resistant #1309 have a 4year proven outdoor non-yellowing test record. I believe there are now a few other manufacturers of rattle can clears with proper UV inhibitors though I have not used them.

All that said Like ALL clear coats even the UV clears still become brittle with age. causing them to chip and if your decals are under these areas they will be lifted along with the clear coating.
If clear coating to protect decals and or other finish a better method would be Pledge with Future an Acrylic floor polymer that can be reapplied at any time to restore the original shine factor without damage to the underlaying decals and/or paint. A single coat of Future give all the High gloss luster of any of the rattle can clear coats without the yellowing, chipping or other problems.

In my limited clearing, I've started by wet sanding the base with something like 1000 grit. After I'm satisfied with that, I'll apply the rattle can clear more or less like others have mentioned. I usually wind up with the rough over spray in parts. After a couple coats of clear (using acrylic lacquer) I allow it to dry a bit and then wet sand with 1200 grit. Once I'm satisfied with that, I may give another coat of clear and repeat the sanding. Then, I apply buffing compound and rub the guts out the rocket. Then, I apply the wax. Way too much work, but it keeps me off the streets. I thought I had a really good looking rocket for a contest and then I saw one that looked like it came off the show room floor! I think he had some real paint experience and used catalyzed paints.

Thanks everyone. Clearing is a little "tricky" and I get a good job-but being somewhat of a perfectionist, never fully happy with it. I'm going to try the "Future Shine" floor polish method once as it seems I'm doing it correctly-just hard to get done "perfect".

I've been loving the Testor's Wet Look Clear Lacquer! Looks great every time (so far) and doesn't seem to be terribly prone to runs/drips or fogging.

BrianURocket said:

Thanks everyone. Clearing is a little "tricky" and I get a good job-but being somewhat of a perfectionist, never fully happy with it. I'm going to try the "Future Shine" floor polish method once as it seems I'm doing it correctly-just hard to get done "perfect".

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A buddy of mine just did an Estes CC Express in Future. It looks great and it is usually tough as nails.