Finally used 2K Clear coat, never going back

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Zyzzyva1000

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As of late I had favored duplicolor 1K clear coat (a few times using the pearl version) - it works well, but can take awhile to get to full cure (and I have some rockets with a few dents from pressure I let occur while it was apparently still curing a week+ later. So, I got some Era paints 2K clear off Amazon ($42 for a 2 pack), lined up 4 completed rockets and went to town. I made sure I had a respirator on (also got off amazon, but when painting you can't smell the paint at all, so I figure it must be working), as well as gloves and eye protection and setup in my backyard. Super happy with the results, no runs or orange peeling. Did 2-3 coats on each rocket and by that evening it was dry and done. Sealed off the decals nicely. Supposedly this stuff won't yellow and it sure seems tough.

I had another rocket (birthday was recently, these were all gifts) that I finished with rustoleum enamel, so I waited 48 hours as per the can, and put rustoleum clear enamel over it - several spots where it crinkled up. Annoying to say the least. So, I think the moral of the story here is batch finish rockets with the 2K clear coat. It's only a dollar or two more expensive than the duplicolor 1K from my local auto zone, and honestly seems to be much better (and head and shoulders above the rustoleum crap). I spent the time and money (stickershock decals) to finish these rockets nicely, so I like giving them some protection before flying. Wish I had a better setup than doing this in my backyard, but for now it seems to work.
 
I had another rocket (birthday was recently, these were all gifts) that I finished with rustoleum enamel, so I waited 48 hours as per the can, and put rustoleum clear enamel over it - several spots where it crinkled up. Annoying to say the least.
With the Rusto enamels it is always good practice to let them cure longer than the recommended 48 hours. I usually let them go a minimum of four days, usually a week, before applying another coat of anything.

Yes, it sucks when things crinkle up, and sometimes it will do that no matter how long you've waited (which *really* sucks). But you can improve your odds by waiting longer.
 
With the Rusto enamels it is always good practice to let them cure longer than the recommended 48 hours. I usually let them go a minimum of four days, usually a week, before applying another coat of anything.

Yes, it sucks when things crinkle up, and sometimes it will do that no matter how long you've waited (which *really* sucks). But you can improve your odds by waiting longer.
100%

When I try to figure out how long I should let spray paint dry (knowing another coat goes on top), I look at what the can says the drying time should be. Then I double that figure, but only assuming I can increase the cited drying temperature by at least 15% and reduce the humidity by at least 33%. If I can't set lower humidity and higher temperature levels, I'll quadruple the recommended drying time.
 
I've had Acryli-Quik look slightly rough shortly after spraying over Rusto filler/primer that had been on overnight, but I'm not sure whether that was the Rusto wanting to crinkle or failing to let the water dry out of the f/p enough after wet sanding it before the Krylon. Fortunately, it flattened out by the time it was dry, and no problem. Haven't gone any longer than that, as I tend to get in a fairly rapid cycle of coats once I'm painting.

Haven't built a rocket I want to spend $20 on clear for yet, and I haven't built a bunch of rockets that are all ready for clear at the same time. I tend to be a finish one, fly one guy so far.
 
With the Rusto enamels it is always good practice to let them cure longer than the recommended 48 hours. I usually let them go a minimum of four days, usually a week, before applying another coat of anything.

Yes, it sucks when things crinkle up, and sometimes it will do that no matter how long you've waited (which *really* sucks). But you can improve your odds by waiting longer.

I've had it crinkle up most all the time I use it, so I am improving my odds by never ever using it again. 😂
 
I've had it crinkle up most all the time I use it, so I am improving my odds by never ever using it again. 😂
Yea this is pretty much my experience - doesn't matter how long I let it sit. Luckily it was just one spot (and for both paint and clear coat I was just using up stuff I already had sitting around). But after using the 2K I won't be going back
 
I got fed up with rattle cans and broke out the automotive spray gun and ordered a gallon of 2k Speedokote clear from Amazon. Works really well, even with my $25 Harbor Freight gun. Easy to apply, very hard, cures fast. I didn't even feel the need to wet sand and buff. Goes on a little thick so probably not suitable for a weight-weenie record attempt. If you have an air compressor, highly recommended! I even put it over ordinary 1k rattle can base coat that I let dry well (a couple weeks) and no problems.
 
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I got fed up with rattle cans and broke out the automotive spray gun and ordered a gallon of 2k Speedokote clear from Amazon. Works really well, even with my $25 Harbor Freight gun. Easy to apply, very hard, cures fast. I didn't even feel the need to wet sand and buff. Goes on a little thick so probably not suitable for a weight-weenie record attempt. If you have an air compressor, highly recommended! I even put it over ordinary 1k rattle can base coat that I let dry well (a couple weeks) and no problems.
I too have moved over to this better way of painting, better results, quicker dry times and nicer finishes.
I actually get a lot of comments of my paint jobs.
Yes it costs more but it out weighs the time to screw with the finishes after with sanding and buffing.
I actually use Spray max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat in aerosol.
 
As of late I had favored duplicolor 1K clear coat (a few times using the pearl version) - it works well, but can take awhile to get to full cure (and I have some rockets with a few dents from pressure I let occur while it was apparently still curing a week+ later. So, I got some Era paints 2K clear off Amazon ($42 for a 2 pack), lined up 4 completed rockets and went to town. I made sure I had a respirator on (also got off amazon, but when painting you can't smell the paint at all, so I figure it must be working), as well as gloves and eye protection and setup in my backyard. Super happy with the results, no runs or orange peeling. Did 2-3 coats on each rocket and by that evening it was dry and done. Sealed off the decals nicely. Supposedly this stuff won't yellow and it sure seems tough.

I had another rocket (birthday was recently, these were all gifts) that I finished with rustoleum enamel, so I waited 48 hours as per the can, and put rustoleum clear enamel over it - several spots where it crinkled up. Annoying to say the least. So, I think the moral of the story here is batch finish rockets with the 2K clear coat. It's only a dollar or two more expensive than the duplicolor 1K from my local auto zone, and honestly seems to be much better (and head and shoulders above the rustoleum crap). I spent the time and money (stickershock decals) to finish these rockets nicely, so I like giving them some protection before flying. Wish I had a better setup than doing this in my backyard, but for now it seems to work.
"Finally used 2K Clear coat, never going back"

Wise man!
 
Automotive products are a great way to do rockets. Our shop does mechanical and collision work so very familiar with it. Most collision shops have a lot of left over paint laying all over the place. Most collision jobs get done with a pint or less of base coat which costs us about 60 to 125 a pint.
I would suggest introducing yourself to an owner and offer a little cash if you can have a look at the left overs.
even a 1/4 of a pint of base coat paint goes a long way. 5 bucks a can will usually do the trick we pay to get rid of it. Even 40 bucks might get you a 10 or 20 left over can selection and the owner gets a nice lunch for 10 mins with you.
Id get a 8-25 dollar Harbour Freight gravity gun. They work better than most people's skills would recognize otherwise.
1 Gallan of automotive clear with a qt of fast activator. about $ 125. Store in a cool place it will last a long time. 1 to 4 ratio is most.
1 gallon of universal fast reducer for the base coat.
1 gallon of lacquer thinner for cleaning up your gun.
you can paint rockets till blue in the face and they will be looking great and tough as nails.

Just my 2 cents
 
I got fed up with rattle cans and broke out the automotive spray gun and ordered a gallon of 2k Speedokote clear from Amazon. Works really well, even with my $25 Harbor Freight gun. Easy to apply, very hard, cures fast. I didn't even feel the need to wet sand and buff. Goes on a little thick so probably not suitable for a weight-weenie record attempt. If you have an air compressor, highly recommended! I even put it over ordinary 1k rattle can base coat that I let dry well (a couple weeks) and no problems.
I have some questions about using 2k Speedokote. Once you mix the 2 parts together how long is the working time? What do you use to clean your spray gun? Thanks.
 
Bought a can of this bad boy after seeing the thread. Being delivered tomorrow.

I have three fully painted rockets (Estes, Estes, and an MPR from LOC) ready to get clear coated (paint has been drying for >1 week). Any general piece of advice about using this product other than wearing appropriate PPE?

Should I clear coat them all fully constructed, that is, with the nose cone inserted into the body tube? Or would this lead to them sticking together?

Do folks sand clear coats? What about applying post-clear coat polish and such?

Thanks!
 
I don't, always shoot the parts that come apart, apart. Just make sure you mask what you don't want clear coat on (e.g. cone shoulders)

I've found that polish is not a benefit, but after its cured no reason it can't be, just like you would a car finish.

BTW... 1 week is probably not adequate. I've been told (e.g. by Rust-oleum) it can take months for 1K paints to cure if ever. Trick is to use acrylic lacquer (e.g. Duplicolor) and very light coats that are lightly buffed before applying the 2K clear.
 

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So I painted over krylon fusion that had all dried for 4-8 days. All did well. The krylon stuff seems to cure faster. No issues it all looked great ( that said I use matte paint for base coat anywhere I can).

For the 2k just make sure to sake really well before and after mixing and try to be as close to recommended temp as possible. Do a quick test piece to make sure you have distance down and it’s coalescing on the surface and not before. The do 2-3 coats and let it cure for 12 hours ( I was able to move mine after about 6 hours without issue just was careful about Handling)
 
now you guys have me gun shy about using clear coat :(
From all the threads I've seen on clear coat, I'd say you have a 50/50 chance of it turning out ok. I bought a new set of decals from Tango Papa and they look just fine yet without clear coat after many years/ launches. I figured a scuff or scratch in the paint or clear coat, same thing.
I guess the best way to see if the clear coat is going to work out is to paint a sample and try that out first.
 
I have some questions about using 2k Speedokote. Once you mix the 2 parts together how long is the working time? What do you use to clean your spray gun? Thanks.
I believe this one is about an hour (and you can recoat almost immediately), it cures faster than most 2k clears since it's designed for fast turnaround in a body shop. I comes with different temperature ranges of hardener, the higher temp stuff would cure more slowly. Plus side is they say you can wet sand/buff it after like 6 hours. But you can of course only mix up what you need. An 8oz batch let me paint 2 or 3 coats on a wildman 3 dual deploy and a wildman punsiher mini dual deploy with about an ounce left over. The gallon will probably last me many many years and should end up being way cheaper than buying the 2k spray paint cans in the long run.

I clean the spray gun with acetone for the most part (I keep a squeeze bottle of it at hand). Some bigger parts or wiping down the outside I'll use IPA.
 
It's great to hear that you had a positive experience with Era paints 2K clear coat for finishing your rockets. The fast drying time and durable results are definitely advantages. Batch finishing with the 2K clear coat is a good strategy to streamline the process and ensure consistent quality. It's also important to choose compatible products, as you discovered with the crinkling issue between different brands of enamel and clear coat. Creating a dedicated space for painting, like a well-ventilated workshop or designated area, can further improve your setup. Keep up the good work in protecting and enhancing your rockets' finishes!
2K clear coat cure time and some tips here - https://paintsgeek.com/2k-clear-coat-cure-time-and-some-tips/
 
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