Advice Sought: Spraying 2K Clearcoat

[Zbench]

I recently took the plunge and tried some rattle
can 2k catalyzed clear coat. Was blown away with the results. Would like to get some liquid two part 2K to spray.

Two related questions with opinions requested. I have a Iawata mini gun but it only has a .6mm nozzle. Everything I’ve read says it should be in the range of 1.3-1.4 mm. I have the mini gun because I use it to spray cerakote. Would like use the same gun but not averse to buying another. My air supply is modest at 6 CFM so I could run a full gun if I had to get another. The mini gun I have I can go up to a 1.0 mm nozzle.

Looking for opinions if there is a 2K clear coat that would work with my existing equipment. Failing that, what gun, finish, compressor combinations do people use with excellent results?

Not averse to buying a new hvlp gun as they are a modest cost, but want actual feedback on “I use this brand clear with this gun and nozzle size and this compressor and get these results.”

I didn’t see any posts which included this info after searching.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Zyzzyva1000]

I would be curious about this too. I have myself made the switch to 2K (and usually just batch a couple rockets at a time). Have been super happy with the results. Next step is a painting booth and spray gun (at some point, until then I guess rattle can 2K). But want to follow this thread.

 

[Jim Hinton]

I purchased a Paasche HVLP gun. I've used it for acrylic clear coats with great results. I'm about to use it for 2K clear coat on my current project. This gun has a 1mm nozzle. The awesome part about this tool is that the fan pattern direction and size, the volume of pant being sprayed, and the air pressure are all separately adjustable from the gun. The price wasn't bad, about $80.00 Clear coats are a job that I've always found difficult due to visibility. It can be tricky to hit that magic place between orange peel and runs. I'm hoping for good results with this tool.
Jim

 

[David Schwantz]

Never used 2K, is that a brand? But I have sprayed clear, and color for the past 40 years. I like to use lacquer thinner. Will help the paint flow and level and will not blush. Just thin your clear down and spray away. Always test on scrap first.

 

[David Schwantz]

Jim, the trick is lighting. you do not want any shadows in your spray area. My booth has lights all around, vertical on the walls and on the ceiling. There are no shadows no matter where I stand or hold the part being painted.

 

[David Schwantz]

Ok, read more. I shoot Imron and PPG Omni a lot. I have a Dewalt 60 gallon compressor, iwata Eclipse HP-BCS airbrush, iwata LPH-80-102G Baby series gun, 1.0 tip. Finex FX100 Mini HVLP gun, with 1.0 tip. Have a couple other quart size guns that I use for primer. Sharpe 606 water trap, nothing worse than almost done with a perfect coat and then it spits on it . I also use a Hobby Air. It is filtered air to a half mask that is powered by it own compressor. And these are not inexpensive, you get what you pay for, but taken care of they will last. My Finex is 20 years old.

 

[OzHybrid]

If you can avoid spraying 2k yourself, avoid it. The solvent/catalyst is nasty stuff. Absorbs through skin and if you breathe it.
Find a local body shop who will have a proper spray booth, all the protective gear and make a deal with them to minimise costs. Make things as easy as possible for them to give you a great price.
You get 0 exposure, don't have to clean the spray gun, don't have to find the best settings for a top result.

 

[Zbench]

Ok, read more. I shoot Imron and PPG Omni a lot.

David are these brands of 2k top coat?

 

[David Schwantz]

In all honesty, I don't know what you mean by 2K?

 

[rharshberger]

Never used 2K, is that a brand? But I have sprayed clear, and color for the past 40 years. I like to use lacquer thinner. Will help the paint flow and level and will not blush. Just thin your clear down and spray away. Always test on scrap first.

2K is 2-part usually a pigment/clear and a "reducer-hardener" nasty stuff to breath but beautiful results, 2K is available in paints and clears.

 

[Hobie1dog]

In all honesty, I don't know what you mean by 2K?

read this:
https://erapaints.com/1k-vs-2k-clear-coat/

 

[OzHybrid]

In all honesty, I don't know what you mean by 2K?

Two-component paints (also referred to as 2K paints) are paints in which a chemical reaction results in paint hardening. Hardeners for two-component paints are usually polyisocyanates that combine with the base paint to form very durable coatings. Two-component paints are characterized by a very high level of corrosion resistance. Two-component paints consist of a base paint and a hardener. These two components must be mixed vigorously in the correct ratio and then applied quickly. The solid content in two-component paints can be very high (so-called high solid paints).


Isocyanate solvents are in my TOP 5 of things to not come in contact with...

 

[OzHybrid]

read this:
https://erapaints.com/1k-vs-2k-clear-coat/

You need to completely cover up. "normal paint" the solvent evaporates and is usually dry before it makes skin contact. 2k is a chemical reaction and a nasty solvent on top of that. Anything in the air will remain wet and stick to anything it makes contact. It's the ability to remain "wet" that gives it a fantastic finish.
The solvent has a sweet innocuous smell. Better you never know that .....

 

[David Schwantz]

From what I have seen, and read the link provided, all 2K stuff comes in a spray can. Have never seen it before, also never used it of course. Hopefully it works well for people. The stuff I like to use is all 2 part paint, color and activator, or clear and activator. Also it is base coat, color, clear coat. I have found this is the best for what I like to use. PPG Omni is a great line, and not to costly. Can be found at most auto paint stores. I used to paint full size aircraft and used Imron a lot. You can hit this stuff with a hammer with no damage. But it will kill you if you spray it without fresh air to breathe. The 192S Activator was really bad, cannot get it anymore. It has been replaced with 193 Activator. So do NOT use this stuff if you do not know how.
As RS stated the 2K stuff needs little time between coats. I'll spray color and then leave in the truck for 2 weeks or so, this gives ample to dry. I'll then scuff, clean and tack the part before clear coating. Again leaving a couple weeks to dry. Not that it needs that long, just works out like that with my job requirements.

 

[Jim Hinton]

2K is another really nasty paint toxicity wise. It causes chemical asthma if inhaled. I always shoot those types of paint outside where there is no one around to be exposed. I wear full PPE while using it. The outdoors environment is why I don't have great control over lighting.
Jim

 

[David Schwantz]

Jim, do you have a way to hold your project and rotate it as you spray? that may help with lighting.

 

[Jim Hinton]

Jim, do you have a way to hold your project and rotate it as you spray? that may help with lighting.

Yes, that's standard procedure. Small parts hang in a painting box, airframes are supported by pvc pipe bedded in a plastic bucket by about 25# of sand. The biggest issue is wind. I usually paint on the lee side of the shop, and even then, only certain conditions will work. Generally, this works well, clear coats are the toughest to deal with. I frequently have gray base coats which really doesn't help the clear show up. On previous projects, I used a Husky touch up gun (door jamb shooter) The new gun definitely gives one greater control, I will get to judge results soon.
Jim

 

[David Schwantz]

I have seen pop up spray booth. Like a pop up hunting blind.
https://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-Sh...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583795260459389&th=1
I used to spray in garage. Fought bugs, weather, dirt all the time. When we moved I built a booth in my then, unfinished basement. Paint jobs increased by 1000000%
Good luck, hope you find something that will work for you.

 

[rharshberger]

From what I have seen, and read the link provided, all 2K stuff comes in a spray can. Have never seen it before, also never used it of course. Hopefully it works well for people. The stuff I like to use is all 2 part paint, color and activator, or clear and activator. Also it is base coat, color, clear coat. I have found this is the best for what I like to use. PPG Omni is a great line, and not to costly. Can be found at most auto paint stores. I used to paint full size aircraft and used Imron a lot. You can hit this stuff with a hammer with no damage. But it will kill you if you spray it without fresh air to breathe. The 192S Activator was really bad, cannot get it anymore. It has been replaced with 193 Activator. So do NOT use this stuff if you do not know how.
As RS stated the 2K stuff needs little time between coats. I'll spray color and then leave in the truck for 2 weeks or so, this gives ample to dry. I'll then scuff, clean and tack the part before clear coating. Again leaving a couple weeks to dry. Not that it needs that long, just works out like that with my job requirements.

The stuff you use is known as 2K as well, PPG Omni is a catalyzed urethane iirc, just like the "2K" clears in the spray cans, the cans have a button on the bottom that punctures a catalyst container inside the can activating the product. I like your products better as its mix what you need when you need it, instead of use it or lose it like the cans.

 

[David Schwantz]

I guess way up here in the north we are a bit behind the times, I have never heard it called that other than here