Suggestions for cutting a balsa nosecone length-wise??

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T-Rex

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In my pursuit to upscale an Estes Starship Vega, I need to cut 3 BT60 nosecones in half along their length. These are to become the cone at the top of the landing pod.
I destroyed 3 plastic cones with my Dremel Motoshop already. They came out OK, but then I began to question how I would glue them on. No problem, I bought some balsa cones from Semroc, easier to glue in place, but now I am wondering about my lack of wood working skill.

In my mind, if I run them across the table saw, I can make a slot that will slip over the fin, but I am concerned about tear out.
The dremel is not accurate enough for a good cut on something this thick. The Jig saw would do the job, but how do I hold the wood?

Not sure I can hold the Zona stable enough to get a straight cut.

Any suggestions? Any practical experience?
 
I gave this some thought Terry and here's what I'd try. If you can secure the jig saw upside down, and make a sort of cradle for the nose that has a flat bottom, you could then slide it into the jig saw while it's running.
 
I gave this some thought Terry and here's what I'd try. If you can secure the jig saw upside down, and make a sort of cradle for the nose that has a flat bottom, you could then slide it into the jig saw while it's running.

hmmmm....interesting thought. I was considering a sled of sorts for the dremel, maybe 2 pieces of aluminum back to back with a washer between them to make a sort of blade guide. Along the same thoughts as using it for the jig saw as you sort of suggested. Inside out miter box.
I may make a run to hobby lobby and get some balsa square stock to experiment with.
 
hmmmm....interesting thought. I was considering a sled of sorts for the dremel, maybe 2 pieces of aluminum back to back with a washer between them to make a sort of blade guide. Along the same thoughts as using it for the jig saw as you sort of suggested. Inside out miter box.
I may make a run to hobby lobby and get some balsa square stock to experiment with.

Your nose cone would actually ride the sled in my suggestion.
 
Hmmm.. for all the hassle, I'd probably get 6 nose cones and and use my table mounted disc sander. Draw a center-line on the cones and have at it! My sander makes sawdust out of balsa in nothing flat!


Jerome
 
Hmmm.. for all the hassle, I'd probably get 6 nose cones and and use my table mounted disc sander. Draw a center-line on the cones and have at it! My sander makes sawdust out of balsa in nothing flat!
Jerome

That had never entered my mind. Interesting idea though...

I did the cones on the Semroc Hydra with a razor saw.

I am thinking more and more the razor saw is the way to go. I'll just have to go slow and careful since I need to use both halves. Worst case, I have to buy another nose cone.

I thought I was doing a good thing when I glued the dowels to the fins. The original had one build the pod, then glue it into an opening in the fin. Due to the size and weight of this abomination, I figured I would snap the pods at the base of the balsa cones. I believe that is why the QModeling version has spring loaded pods. I looked at doing that as well, but could not locate a suitable spring,
 
The razor saw is the way to go ,at least it was for me.I drew a line with a waterbased fine tip archival felt tip pen all around the perimeter(it`s permanent and will not bleed through when painting ,unlike a Sharpie......do not use that if you intend to use solvent based paints or primers !) or you could use a good dark pencil .

I then began to saw following the line and cut a shallow kerf all around the cone without trying to go at it in one shot from one side.

It did not take long at all ,and just a bit of sanding ,in my case sandpaper taped to the BT to get the proper dadius in the NC halves.


Cheers

paul t
 
You may not have one, but I would find a band saw to use... narrow kerf and pretty quick to get a nice cut.
 
I have considered locating someone who would cut them on a bandsaw for me. I think, though, given the curve of the cone, I would need to build a sled before anyone would consider the task. (for safety reasons)

I have 1 extra. I plan to attempt the cut with a zona saw as Sodmeister describes above and see how I do.
 
OK, pulled my pants up, grabbed a glass of ice water & the Zona. Squelched my fears then using a fin wrap from Payload Bay marked a piece of BT60. Slid the first nosecone into the tube and marked it with a pencil.
DSCN0378.jpg
Steeling my nerves with a gulp of water I attempted to follow the lines and made the first cut. Not straight (nothing new for me). Continued scoring the cone all the way around noting that my scores were not going to line up like I wanted.
DSCN0381.jpgDSCN0380.jpg
Finally managed to split the atom...
DSCN0386.jpg
They ain't pretty, but after sanding to fit, I hope most of that ugliness goes away
 
I suppose it's a little late in suggesting this, but before I crack or cut a nose cone in half, I always look for a wood grain that goes all the way from the tip to the shoulder if possible. This aids in an easier cut and a more reliable crack.
 
If you had access to a lathe I came up with this: Take two pieces of balsa say 6" long and 2" wide and 1" thick. Glue them together forming a 6" piece that is 2 x 2. Only glue the pieces near the ends so after you turn the nose cone shape and cut off the ends off you have two pieces that are the shape you are looking for.
 
If you had access to a lathe I came up with this: Take two pieces of balsa say 6" long and 2" wide and 1" thick. Glue them together forming a 6" piece that is 2 x 2. Only glue the pieces near the ends so after you turn the nose cone shape and cut off the ends off you have two pieces that are the shape you are looking for.

Scott, Have you ever done this? I have a lathe and I'm willing to give that a shot since I'll be needing to do the same thing. My only concern is, once you get the nose to a near finished point in the turning, you risk centrifugal force to break the nose off while spinning. There are weak and unglued spots to consider.
 
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I would have just stuck the NC in a BT-60, set me table saw blade half the dia of tube off fence to center of blade,set BT against fence and run the bitch thru...
Ok, maybe go as far as CAing the BT to a piece of wood so as it wouldnt roll when feeding it thru.
Done deal...
But,thats me..Im different.
 
I would have just stuck the NC in a BT-60, set me table saw blade half the dia of tube off fence to center of blade,set BT against fence and run the bitch thru...
Ok, maybe go as far as CAing the BT to a piece of wood so as it wouldnt roll when feeding it thru.
Done deal...
But,thats me..Im different.

LMAO! Let me know how that works out for SD. I think that blade is gonna eat more wood away than we need it to.
 
OK guys, don't laugh, but...

I had a BT55 cone I wanted to split like this. I figured out the grain alignment, then clamped it in a bench-mounted wood clamp such that the clamp was squeezing in the plane of the grain. It held pretty well with just a little crush. I then took a very sharp boning knife from the kitchen ( a sturdy but quite thin knife, no serrations, almost a giant razor blade), aligned by hand midway over the nose along the plane of the grain, and pushed down gently with increasing force. One hand on the handle, the other steadying the tip (pressing down on the tip end from the top of the blade)... the nose cone was in the center of the blade. . I got about three quarters of the way down before pressure stopped the knife. I finished up the cut with a fresh razor blade in a mat knife, doing cuts on each side.

This was before I documented things thoroughly, so sorry no pics.

Marc
 
I would have just stuck the NC in a BT-60, set me table saw blade half the dia of tube off fence to center of blade,set BT against fence and run the bitch thru...
Ok, maybe go as far as CAing the BT to a piece of wood so as it wouldnt roll when feeding it thru.
Done deal...
But,thats me..Im different.

I considered it early on, but considering the softness of balsa, I figured the tear out would be horrible. Have you ever actually tried it?
 
I would have just stuck the NC in a BT-60, set me table saw blade half the dia of tube off fence to center of blade,set BT against fence and run the bitch thru...
Ok, maybe go as far as CAing the BT to a piece of wood so as it wouldnt roll when feeding it thru.
Done deal...
But,thats me..Im different.

I considered it early on, but considering the softness of balsa, I figured the tear out would be horrible. Have you ever actually tried it?
 
Scott, Have you ever done this? I have a lathe and I'm willing to give that a shot since I'll be needing to do the same thing. My only concern is, once you get the nose to a near finished point in the turning, you risk centrifugal force to break the nose off while spinning. There are weak and unglued spots to consider.

No Gary, I should have prefaced my comments with that it was just a thought that came to me after reading the other comments. Just kinda brainstorming. You make some good points. Maybe someone can run with this original idea and come up with something more solid (pun intended). Maybe a dowel or two, somewhere?...
 
I think Scotty Dog has the right idea but the wrong tool, I'd use his set up with a band saw. I'd put enough tape on the shoulder to hold it tight in the BT and then maybe some more tape on the outside aswell. I'd only try this if I was cutting several cones though. Still, it's a good excuse to buy a band saw, just saying.:wink:

If I was just cutting one cone I'd probably just go with the razor saw and be very careful.
 
I may just have to give it a wirl. Seems by the time one gets done SANDING down the razor saw wiggley sqiggley cut,it be more balsa taken away than a table saw blade would take away..?????
Ill get back at ya on this...just dont hold ya breath.
 
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I agree with Bill:

I did the cones on the Semroc Hydra with a razor saw.

View attachment 135038

Time spent building a jig is worth it. The tool will hold things still and allow a repeatable cut.

Razor saw is definitely the way to go. Cut firmly but don't push hard, check often for alignment of your cut.

You may want to cut an "extra" NC in order to select the best set of final parts.
 
I would have just stuck the NC in a BT-60, set me table saw blade half the dia of tube off fence to center of blade,set BT against fence and run the bitch thru...
Ok, maybe go as far as CAing the BT to a piece of wood so as it wouldnt roll when feeding it thru.
Done deal...
But,thats me..Im different.
talk the talk,walk the walk.....
$90.00 P.O.S. 10" table saw w/ an old worn out rip blade balanced on a tin can, a piece of strapping and some electricial tape,2-3/4 eyeballs,eight hundred million mosquitos,110% humidity and a ripe pear.
Done Deal.
And,if ya really want to get exacto mungo numbers,you can always glue a sheet of balsa on the bitch, trimmy here and there and BINGO, a perfect PAIR...:lol:
The only error was a small nitch (tip one side)on start due to owner operator.
I barly had table enough to get a start.
A bigger saw/table,new panel blade and a better jig,Ill cut these all day everyday no prop blem o.
Anywhoo- Now that "I" have a pair, I need to do something with them.
Quess I'll "Scratch-em"

SawNc 004.jpg

SawNc 001.jpg

SawNc 002.jpg

SawNc 003.jpg

SawNc.jpg
 
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Steeling my nerves with a gulp of water I attempted to follow the lines and made the first cut. Not straight (nothing new for me). Continued scoring the cone all the way around noting that my scores were not going to line up like I wanted.
View attachment 135574
Finally managed to split the atom...
Where did you get the "Electric Razor Saw" :wink:
 
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